Yetizod

Alright everyone here's my problem, it's a long one but please bear with me cause no one, including a professional mechanic who's been doing some work for me recently can explain this...

Aprox this time last year, roughly late decemeber I had some pullies and a line lock installed, after it was all said and done we through it on the Dyno and pulled 325 RWHP and 340ish Torque (don't have the sheets in front of me). At that time, with a little practice and the help of those pullies, combined with the mods I had already done I was able to get consistant trap speeds of 105 or 106. My ET's were never good cause I have an M6 and can't launch worth ****, but my traps were always pretty consistant regardless.

Jump ahead a few months, middle of California summer, and hotter than hell. Go to the track and Im only turning high 102's low 103 MPH. I blame the heat and think while it pisses me off i don't make much of it at the time.

Now it's late Sept, maybe Early Oct if I remember correctly when I hit the strip again and weather is cooled down significantly. In fact it was colder than it would normally be. Im still turning the same shitty traps. Now in this time I have done nothing as far as work to the car. No mods, just the usual oil changes and such.

Now i've been getting a NX kit installed recently and due to some problems with it (it don't work either) we put it on the dyno to help troubleshoot it without driving out on the street to test it. But before we even get to that we make several NA passes and my numbers come out best of 305 RWHP !!!! WTF!!! is that ****?

That explains my power loss at the track, Can anyone tell me how I just randomly lost 20 hp into the thin air?

The only thing Ralph, the guy who does most of my work could offer, without doing a full inspection, is that he smelled Oil on my exhaust and suggested it might be a PCV issue. Anyone else have any ideas? I had just topped off my oil that morning and had put a little too much in. I drained a bunch but it's possible not enough.

PLEASE everyone I am desperate, I will respect and inspect every possibility offered up to me, I just want my baby to run right again...

Yetizod

LS1derfull

Its possible your pullies are creating false knock and resultant timing retard, same if you are pulling in enough oil thru pcv system to destroy fuels octane level and are causing low octane fuel timing table to be used by PCM. You should Atap read your runs to find out total timing and suspected retard of timing. Let me know what you find. Also GM recognizes moisture build up around rear knock sensor causing false knock readings, this problem is a service bulletin and it happens to guys who wash under there hood most often. Good luck.

<small>[ November 24, 2002, 10:24 AM: Message edited by: LS1derfull ]</small>

LS1derfull

If plugs were your problem car would missfire especially at idle, i doubt thats it, besides this ignition system would fire almost anything that resembled a spark plug! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

It could be what was said earlier or your A/F could be way rich.That could easily pull 20hp.

Yetizod

I don't have Autotap available too me, unless there's someone here in Northern California that would be willing to give me a hand with it. I'd would travel pretty far to get this squared away.

LS1derful, how could I tell if the pullies were creating false knock? And why would it happen so suddenly as it did? That is working fine for several months than suddenly not? Also please excuse my ignorance (Im an accountant, not a mechanic) but you mentioned oil and the pcv system. The mechanic who workes on my car also mentioned this. Do the pullies have something to do with pulling oil through the system, or is it completely independant? And how would one go about testing to see if that is the problem?

SS Rally Red - due to the fact that I've changed plugs for a NX Wet Kit install, I'd say they have about 150-200 miles tops. But my former plugs (NGK TR55's) had NO more than 20k when I took them off, and approx 10k when I began having problems. Im just guessing on those #'s though.

theblur99ss - Dynoing with A/F hooked up costs more money. So, the first time I dynoed i didn't do it, cause the car was running like a champ and neither I, nor my mechanic saw it necessary. The latest Dyno, was actually scheduled for the sole purpose of troubleshooting some problems with my Nitrous install. My readings which i've been describing are just something I noticed along the way. So no A/F readings to speak of.

And as far as the mention of A/F being too rich, i'll bite, that would certainly cause my problem, but I just don't understand (maybe due to lack of experience) why it would just arbitrarily start happening one day. Why would the A/F mix just up and change?

Everyone's help is still VERY MUCH appreciated. I hope everyone will be patient and read through my long winded posts, to help me resolve this.

Yetizod

LS1derfull

I dont think pulley affects oil consumption but if your intake is filling with oil(remove throttle body and inspect inside intake for oil)that will ruin octane of fuel which can cause detonation. You will need to use Tech 2 or Atap to see if knock is registering and timing is being retarded from either crank pulley vibrations or oil contamination. Change of seasons weather differences change tune requirements pretty drastically i have come to find out, so its very possible that is all that is wrong with your car also.

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

This is simplistic but how many miles on your current set of plugs ?

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Other the plugs or filter...what was your a/f on the dyno? Any atap runs to see what's going on?

Yetizod

Thanks a lot for the advice thus far. I'll take a look at my intake and look for traces of oil.
Are there any other ways to check for knock or timing problems? I don't have Autotap or a Laptop to run it on, and im not real big on spending the money to get it either.

Yetizod