Rough Idle and Hunting for Idle...
#1
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Ive got a 2001 WS6 w/ FLP Longtubes w/Cats, Loudmouth cat-back, Yank ST3500 and Sportsman Pro Trans, SLP Lid and MAF, TR6 plugs, MSD 8.5MM wires, and a Nitrous Works wet kit spraying a 150 shot.
Ive been having problems for a little while with the car hunting for idle on a cold start as well as running rough at idle after warming up.
I was talking to a guy at a local shop in town and he was talking about problems with people running cut outs and no cats (which I was for almost 10 months) bending valves due to no back presure from the exhaust.
Has anyone encountered any problems such as this?
Ive been having problems for a little while with the car hunting for idle on a cold start as well as running rough at idle after warming up.
I was talking to a guy at a local shop in town and he was talking about problems with people running cut outs and no cats (which I was for almost 10 months) bending valves due to no back presure from the exhaust.
Has anyone encountered any problems such as this?
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Did your idle concerns happen after you installed the tr6 plugs, they have a smaller gap and will make the car run lean at idle, I have seen rough idle with these plugs before. try the stock plugs and see how it runs before you go nuts thinking its a bent valve, I have never seen bent ex valves from running lt's and open exhaust.
#3
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nagash01WS6:
<strong>I was talking to a guy at a local shop in town and he was talking about problems with people running cut outs and no cats (which I was for almost 10 months) bending valves due to no back presure from the exhaust.
Has anyone encountered any problems such as this?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Find someone else to talk to because this guy is a total moron. I've ran a car with open headers before and it didn't bend any valves. Many run cut out's if and there's never been a rash bent valves with the cut outs open. Valves get bent from P to V contact due to weak springs, mechanical over rev, and broken timing chains.
I had TR-6's in my bolt car and hated them. Rougher idle and worse gas mileage. How long have the TR-6's been in? Since they are colder plugs then tend to foul easier and quicker. I'd check plugs and wires. I'd also check O2 connections. An exhaust leak near an O2 could cause various problems.
Good Luck
<strong>I was talking to a guy at a local shop in town and he was talking about problems with people running cut outs and no cats (which I was for almost 10 months) bending valves due to no back presure from the exhaust.
Has anyone encountered any problems such as this?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Find someone else to talk to because this guy is a total moron. I've ran a car with open headers before and it didn't bend any valves. Many run cut out's if and there's never been a rash bent valves with the cut outs open. Valves get bent from P to V contact due to weak springs, mechanical over rev, and broken timing chains.
I had TR-6's in my bolt car and hated them. Rougher idle and worse gas mileage. How long have the TR-6's been in? Since they are colder plugs then tend to foul easier and quicker. I'd check plugs and wires. I'd also check O2 connections. An exhaust leak near an O2 could cause various problems.
Good Luck
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Relax on the bent valve thing from running open exhaust. That's been a fabled myth for as long as I can remember. Unless there has been some other happening with your car that is not coming to light here, look elsewhere. Your general description has been an issue for some with higher stall converters and cam tuning fine points. Many have been solved with throttle blade air bleed hole diameter adjustments and some have gotten more serious computer retune solutions.
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TR6's have been in for about a month... left them at the .038 gap they came since I upped to the 150 shot from a 100. On the 100 shot I was running a .040 gap. Ran a little smoother with the bigger gap.
No leaks on the headers... there were some serious leaks after putting the cats in a couple weeks ago because I couldnt adjust the Y-Pipe. Got that done though, and there are absolutely no leaks. Used aluminum tape to make a "gasket" for the clamps.
My car has always hunted for idle when it is cold with a converter in... just got worse when the headers went in. Then it started throwing rich codes and now Im trying to lean it out again with the MAFT. Base is fine... WOT is NASTY rich.
Just wondering... because at the track Wed. night it was pretty chilly, and the best N/A run I could get was a 13.1@105. Normally can do a 12.7 to 12.8. Would running rich according to the O2 sensors cause running .4 to .5 tenths slower??? Although on the gas... I pulled a 12.2@117. That was on a full tank of gas and tons of crap in my car.
No leaks on the headers... there were some serious leaks after putting the cats in a couple weeks ago because I couldnt adjust the Y-Pipe. Got that done though, and there are absolutely no leaks. Used aluminum tape to make a "gasket" for the clamps.
My car has always hunted for idle when it is cold with a converter in... just got worse when the headers went in. Then it started throwing rich codes and now Im trying to lean it out again with the MAFT. Base is fine... WOT is NASTY rich.
Just wondering... because at the track Wed. night it was pretty chilly, and the best N/A run I could get was a 13.1@105. Normally can do a 12.7 to 12.8. Would running rich according to the O2 sensors cause running .4 to .5 tenths slower??? Although on the gas... I pulled a 12.2@117. That was on a full tank of gas and tons of crap in my car.
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Dont forget vacuum leaks are also notorious for idle hunt especially cold,Do you have a scanner to check things. Go over any vacuum sources you may have diturbed like the ones behind the intake.
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Eh... checked all the vacuum lines... everything looks cool. Vacuum line from the trans to where it got T-ed into the vacuum system... everything looks good.
Only point that could cause the problem is where I blocked off the vacuum line going from some kind of sensor to the A.I.R. distributor thing... whatever that is... on the drivers side rear of the engine when I yanked the A.I.R. system.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Only point that could cause the problem is where I blocked off the vacuum line going from some kind of sensor to the A.I.R. distributor thing... whatever that is... on the drivers side rear of the engine when I yanked the A.I.R. system.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
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You will have to scan all the data to start with.With so many changes already done,you will need some data for diagnosing.A good start is putting the stock MAF back on for test purposes,Dont forget if you undo the battery the LS1 loses its idle learn.If you continue with problems E mail me and we'll take care of it. Good Luck