jmX

Hey guys, just wanted to let yall know a few things.

First, my old site "ls1.fbody.com" is not being updated anymore. All my writeups have moved to my new webpage, http://www.ls1howto.com

Second, there are 3 new writeups.
1) Y-body Heads/Cam/Pulley install
2) F-body Heads/Cam/Pulley install
3) Fuel rail cover painting (after the LOOOONG writups I needed to do a simple one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> )

Third, email me any corrections you have to add. These writeups are meant to be living documents so when I get emailed a fix I think should be included, I add it in.

The information for the heads/cam writups has been collected from my own experiences... 12 fbody cam swaps, 6 fbody head swaps, 3 C5 head swaps, and 2 C5 cam swaps, so they should be pretty accurate and complete.

So, what are you doing still reading this, check my new site out, and pass the word on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

http://www.ls1howto.com

pekkaz

Awesome ! Thanks man!

oOoLy

Nice site <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

DERTY

Very cool! We ultimately found a quick way to simply dump the power steering rack on the C5 out the drivers side wheel well. We've done it twice now and it's very easy for those that want to consider it. We couldn't rotate it out enough to clear the pulley and make it into the passenger wheel well at the time.

You should also look at some of the pics that shows how Thunder Racing gets the whole rack and power steering pump out without removing any lines! That looked like a small pain, but maybe it was pretty straight forward.

minivette

I guess you can use the pics of my ported macs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

What if I just wanna change the cam, and keep the stock heads ? Can I just skip the "head insatll" part ? Will other install directions apply ?
Thanks...

DERTY

Yes, for a cam only install you just need to remove the rockers and pull the rods at a minimum. If you are changing the springs this can be done by putting a cylinder pressure test line into the spark plug hole and keep the pressure at about 60 PSI. Remember to remove the check valve out of the line! Then you can simply do the spring swap and follow the rest of Jon's work there. I'm going to post some more info on ours which was just a cam and spring swap.

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

Great site and install pages. <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> I'm sure you'll be helping many people with that good info. Congrats and thanks. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Bruce

xp3nd4bl3

You're the man! Thanks! <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot...

You know what whould be awesome ? If someone would videotape each crucial step (head/cam positioning and timing) in detail and burn it onto a CD...Or maybe someone could videotape all of the install...? I wouldn't mind paying $10-20 bucks for a detailed visual install....I'm sure I speak for all the amateur "internal engine dummies" here....
Anyway, ls1howto is a kicka$$ website It's like a car-bible now <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> !!! Thanks !!!

Tin Indian

Thanks, Jon, thats going to help me out alot!

Ron,

2000SILVERTA

Thanks man. I used your writeup on my head install and it went smooth as silk.

jmX

Thanks for all the comments guys. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

DrDebacle, thanks for your permission. <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />

I've thought about the video thing, but bandwidth isn't free and I don't really want to charge anybody to view my writeups. If I had a video camera setup I would video a few things like the rack removal on the C5, to show that once its unbolted I can have it sticking out the side in under 30 seconds, and things like getting the cam out and putting the cam in would be neat to have as a reference....Its kinda hard to explain with words how to support the cam while removing/installing it.

derty, 3 times now the rack has been removed like I documented and I'm not sure how any other way could possibly be any easier. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

2000SILVERTA , good to hear you used it. Hardly anybody ever emails me a thank you or sends just any email at all after they use my instructions so I never know if people actually want them or not. Glad somebody is using them.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong>Hey guys, just wanted to let yall know a few things.

First, my old site "ls1.fbody.com" is not being updated anymore. All my writeups have moved to my new webpage, http://www.ls1howto.com

Second, there are 3 new writeups.
1) Y-body Heads/Cam/Pulley install
2) F-body Heads/Cam/Pulley install
3) Fuel rail cover painting (after the LOOOONG writups I needed to do a simple one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> )

Third, email me any corrections you have to add. These writeups are meant to be living documents so when I get emailed a fix I think should be included, I add it in.

The information for the heads/cam writups has been collected from my own experiences... 12 fbody cam swaps, 6 fbody head swaps, 3 C5 head swaps, and 2 C5 cam swaps, so they should be pretty accurate and complete.

So, what are you doing still reading this, check my new site out, and pass the word on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

http://www.ls1howto.com </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Just thought I'd mention the More Performance valve spring tool it looks like this one is well worth the money....

blazinredls1

JMX i must say your old site was great, but now with the updates its topnotch!! You provided a very needed service for us and must say "THANK YOU"!!

DERTY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong>Thanks for all the comments guys. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
derty, 3 times now the rack has been removed like I documented and I'm not sure how any other way could possibly be any easier. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It takes the same time going out the drivers side and I don't have to remove the power steering pump! In all I think we have the basic rack removal from twisting the first bolt to out in under 20 minutes. That includes taking out the ABS bracket. The biggest pain is getting down onto the two 18mm nuts on the steering rack. If you can get those off without a lot of fuss it's even faster. It's all the same at the end of the day. Whatever works.

jmX

blazinredls1 , thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

derty, do you lower the crossmember to get the gear out through there? I normally have my jackstands under the crossmember so lowering it would be strange.

sited12

Your site is awesome. I had the old one saved for cam and heads reference but this new one i might just read all the time. Try to keep us informed with everything you can.

jmX

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sited12:
<strong>Try to keep us informed with everything you can.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I plan on telling people when there is anything major that is new. Once I have money for mods more stuff will be added....until then the only writeup I can add is how to cook ramen and frozen $0.99 pizzas. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

DERTY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong>blazinredls1 , thanks! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

derty, do you lower the crossmember to get the gear out through there? I normally have my jackstands under the crossmember so lowering it would be strange.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup, just put them in there towards the back. We used a jack on each side of the car on the aluminum support strips that he had on there for some added balance. I guess those are an aftermarket thing that's out there for those that want some extra jack points on the car (or bottom out protection!). Then loosen the rear bolts slightly, the front bolts a little ways so that you can pry the carrier down. I guess that it could be problematic without those strips. You could also balance much of the weight off the back of the motor carrier (whatever they are calling it!).

I think we have some pictures, I just need time to get them uploaded. We have a lot of pics on the spring swap, including removing the valve stem seals. I think there are some in there on how we supported the car to do it.

When you removed the rack, having the steering pump off allowed you to rotate the rack up to clear the face of the motor right?