Argon Z

i have 98 camaro
cnc stage 2 heads most bolt-ons (exaust including)

i dont want to spin high rpms if possable-under 6400

also i want to have a flat tourqe/hp curve i dont care about a few extra hp at a peak

drivability is important

T1 221/221 .558/.558 112

x1 230/227 .591/.571 112

c2 224/224 .581/.581 112

Thunder racing

224/224 .561/.561 112

2220/220 .553/.553 112 or 114

Argon Z

PICK ONE OR RECOMEND ONE IF U WOULD BE SO KIND

Liquidnutz

220 .553 on a 114

SSINFUL

The longer the duration, the higher the peak hp/tq (won't be at the same rpm).

Less valve overlap = wider powerband. Wider LSA = wider powerband (as compared to a narrower LSA).

None of the cams you list would be really "driveable" under the conditions you list. The closest would be the B1 (similar to the T1 except at a 114LSA). Howsabout a custom 220/224 w/ lifts around .580 at a 114LSA? XE-R ramps. Try www.Compcams.com (Tech line is crowded but usually helpful) for suggestions then order through a sponsor.

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

How about a custom job. Something like a 222/220 .565/.550 on a 114.

Argon Z

i thought 112 would have better low end grunt then 114 cam, but im just a begginner

please anytthing u add is helpful

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

With stage 2 heads the TR224 is a great choice. Do a search and you will see some very good #'s with this setup.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

No, a 114 LSA provides a broader power range and lower than a 112 (not much though). Think of a wide LSA as a platue, and a narrow LSA as a mountain (generally speaking). <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I would have to agree with SSINFUL or if you are dead set on those, I'd say the C2 or TR224 but on a 114 LSA. And depending on the ICL, degree it at ~108 to keep it under 6400 rpms. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I wrote a computer program a long time ago on LS1.COM that helped people select a camshaft. PSJ still have that around? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

jmX

What I think is really funny is that people say something like "Try custom cam blah blah blah" and its 2 degrees and 0.010" of an inch of lift off from some other cam that everybody uses. The measurable difference between the two is so small its just silly. ONLY if you go and buy a wide selection of cams and try them each yourself will you be able to make a decision like that. SOOOO...if you are unable to try them all yourself and you want to know what to buy, the choices are simple.

The way I see it (after owning 8 LS1 cams), there are three main options...
1) You want a drivable cam to pass emissions and be hassle free? MTI B1, TR220, or something around a 220/220 with 550 lift, 114lsa.

2) You want cam like everybody else has, the good mix of power and drivability, you get a mid 220's duration and 550'ish lift, 114lsa if you like it smooth, 112 if you like some lope. TR224, MMS224, TR227/224, etc.

3) You want a cam that doesn't give up power, and drivability is secondary. Lope is good. You get an F1, TR230/224, 230/230 etc on a 110-112'ish LSA.

All of these opinions are based on having a 6 speed car.

IF you don't know how to choose a cam shaft that is right for you and you are trying to find some magic spec in between those 3 main catagories, you are wasting your time (as well as other peoples time on this board, having to answer cam question after cam question after cam question). Find your catagory, pick a cam from the group, order it, and be happy. Its that simple.

Crazyquik

I think jmX hit the nail on the head. I want to archive that post...

J.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Terry, um err ahhh eeeeh no I don't have that program I do remember it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I totally agree with Jamex, I think a B1 (221/221/114) or similar TR (220/220//114) is the biggest I would go for a no fuss, virtually unnoticeable lope.

I had a 222/224//113 cam that was a lot of fun a few years ago, I went 115mph with it.

Argon Z

people keep talking about cam loop with a 110/112lsa cam what is this so called loop?

Angry'Z

JMX

Just an observation from an older guy (new member) but this board is about exchanging information and expanding ones knowledge through others experience. It would seem you have a wealth of info that others could use and it is much appreciated but you chose to "waste" your time by replying. This guy is trying to make up his mind and may not have your experience which makes his decision more difficult. Maybe I'm having a bad day or something but your reply seemed a bit harsh for the question presented.

Argon Z

Driveable has alot to do with how the car is tuned after installing the new cam - it also has alot to do with what you consider driveable. Most cams around the 220ish range on a 114LSA would most likely yield descent power and fairly nice street manners. If you have the car tuned afterwards - it really shouldn't be player.

Michael
Just Bring It <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I think JMX is right. 2 degrees is generally not noticable in power. Based upon my cam swaps and experience, cams can be divided into 4 ranges based upon intake duration:

212 - 216 very mild. Pass emissions easily and minimal to no tuning requied. perfect for a sleeper when combined with a free flowing but quiet exhaust.

218 - 222 mild. Still can generally pass emmissions, can get away w/o tuning on an M6, minimal tuning for an A4. can hide the lope with a higher idle. Drivability not compromised with tuning.

224 - 226 medium. Last of the truly street cams. Maybe pass emissions with a 114 LSA and a few tuning tricks. Tuning frequently, but not always required. Going to lope with a normal idle speed. Drivability generally good with tuning. Gas mileage is not horrible, but you will start to wonder if someone stuck just a 13 gallon tank in your car when you weren't looking.

228 - 232. race. Sure you can run it on the street, but there is no escaping that you have a big cam. You want tuning (whether you think you need it or not) if you're running at this level. Easily pass emissions by swapping your stock cam back in and driving to the test facility. Going to lope even with a 950 rpm idle.

That said it is hard to wrong with a 220/220 112 or 224/224 114 depending upon where you fall.
A4's are little less forgiving then M6's when it comes to running a big cam.

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

I`ve got the X1 cam and love it. She pulls like a mother higher in the rpm range, but does run good in the lower range. I have a A4, Vig 3200, 12-bolt-3.73 and still pulled over 400rwhp. I`ve got a friend with the same set-up with a 6sp and pulled 445rwhp. Throw in a 100 wet shot like me and you had better get ready. Check my sig out. I still have A/C-loaded and she is very streetable! Even have 2 car-seats for my girls in back! The sound is sweet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />