PUSHROD LENGTH
Well, the aftermarket pushrods come in .050" increments. A .050" shorter rod would get you closer to your ideal preload than a stock rod, given that you milled .030" off the head.
I would buy the shorter 7.35" rods if it were up to me.
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Now, if you [also] had an aftermarket cam, these cams normally have aprox a .030" smaller base circle (cam centerline to lobe heal distance) than the factory LS1 cam. If that was the case, you would be better off with the stock 7.40" pushrod with your milled heads. In fact, with the milled heads and aftermarket cam, your lifter preload would not change at all with stock length rods.
Ron,
In your case, you never mentioned an aftermarket cam. Again, with the [stock] cam and .030" milled heads, get a set of 7.35" rods.
Ron,
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Turning the engine, bring the exhaust pushrod on any cylinder up until it is at peak lift (valve fully open). Now, install a pushrod on the intake of that cyl. (this valve will be fully closed) and slowly turn the rocker arm bolt down until the lifter is at "zero lash" (pushrod will start getting harder to turn when being spun with your fingers). Mark the bolt with a marker. Then count how many turns it takes to completely tighten the bolt to 22 FT/LB. From what I have read, the bolt should have turned between 1 to 1 1/4 turns for the acceptable GM lifter preload. One person on this board stated that 1 full turn of the rocker bolt equals .049" during his measurment.
Ron,


