I'll take plenty of pictures during my own fly cutting project. I will be glad to share them with you SLP4.

 

Did you use the same cutter on the intake as you did on the exhaust??? The cutter for the intake is 2.100 and the exhaust cutter is 1.600. Those look the same from the pic. Also cutting the exaust side usually is not necessary. I have done flycutting on 5 different motors.

 

Flycut 0.080" here. 100hp wet shot. Gonna bump it to 150hp shot. And I'm on about 8.7DCR.

 

nope. used 2 different (2 1/16 & 1 5/8 for my application) cutters. you can tell how the base on the 2 cuts dont look the same. also, i have to disagree with you on the exhaust not needing to be cut. depending on your choice of cam and timing pref, the open exhaust valve will/can be closest to the piston. plus i like to keep things as balanced as i can. with the cuts being made on both sides of the piston (intake & exhaust) there is still somewhat of a equal and opposite effect. but here again and as normal, these are just my opinions.

 

So has anyone written one yet???

 

It's a document I saved from another site..
I can't save the pictures, the file is saved as a .pdf. If someone knows how to convert the file send me a PM and I'll send it.

Fly-Cutting Pistons Using The ISKY tool
The following article is for informational purposes only!
ForceFed High Performance accepts no responsibility for any damage that
may occur as a result of reading this article and/or performing any of the
modifications within the article! We also must stress that this is not the best
or most accurate way to Fly-Cut your pistons and results may vary from
piston to piston!
Required tools:
- General automotive hand tools
- Drill (we recommend cordless)
- 90 degree drill transition
- Duct tape
- shop Vac
- Feeler gauges
- ISKY Fly-Cutter
Before you can start this procedure you need to remove the cylinder heads and clean the block deck and the bolt holes.

Step 1: Once everything has been cleaned up you need to bring the piston up
to TDC and put duct tape over that piston.

Step 2: To use the ISKY tool you need a cylinder head with the intake seat cut out. Using the special head, insert the cutter shaft from the top of the head and push the cutter head on from the bottom. This procedure is the same for both the intake and exhaust.

Step 3: Place an old gasket on the block and install the cylinder head with two bolts in the center of the head, just snug them down.

Step 4: Before you can start cutting you need to set the cutter for the depth of cut. To do this you need to know how much clearance you want, example: you have 0.020" clearance now but you want 0.100" so you need to cut 0.080" out. Now you use some feeler gauges to make a 0.080" shim and place it under the loose collar on top of the valve guide. Once you have the collar where you want it you simply tighten it down and remove the feeler gauges.

Step 5: Here you simply connect your drill to the cutter and start to cut. You want to start out with the cutter off the piston then apply even pressure until the collar bottoms out on the guide. When you finish cutting remove the drill and use a shop vac on the spark plug hole to pull out the shavings before removing the head.

Step 6: Repeat for the exhaust side and remove the gasket and tape from the
block. Now you have your Fly-Cut pistons!

 

Man that is simple!!! Alright I think I'm confident enough to do it.

 

00 Freak, one very important step that didn't cover was deburring the cut.

I plan on using a couple different grade deburring wheels with my Dremel to do this. Stepping from medium to fine. This will remove the sharp edges that would otherwise cause detonation.

 

When you say deburring, you mean smoothing out the edges, correct?

 

That's right

 

Man, it's soft aluminum. Just rub over it with some 1200 grit and be done. You don't have to get overly complicated by using multiple grades. I put my thumb on a piece of 1200 grit sandpaper and went over the edge about twice and it's fine. It's soft stuff.

 

I have 1200-12,000 grit sand paper. I'm good. Now I'm looking for someone who has the tools for me to start doing it.

 

Buy a used head, and buy the tools. Much cheaper than renting. Heck, I have an old head here. Maybe I'll cut it into 2 pieces and buy the flycutting tools and sell it for about $400.

 

I'm sure you're right, I planned to take it real easy. I'll probably end up doing just that. But I have to see for myself

 

i just use a dremel with an abrasive buff. it works perfect.

 

i have always just used a box cutter or a razor blade
to removed the sharp ridge left by the tool, and sanded with 120 grit
paper, mind the shavings

 

write-up sounds like a great idea , is anyone out there spraying 150-200 with some serious flycutting? my 239-239 cam with my 1:8 rockers are really going to need room

 

Im working on a writeup starting now.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/709183-how-flycut-pistons.html

there ya go. happy to contribute to the site anyway I can. god knows Ive learned alot from it.

 

You guys act like it's brain surgery. It's just a tool on a drill, with a cuff that'll stop you from going too far if you set it. Once you pull it all apart and get ready to do it, it's pretty self-explanatory. Those of you who have also done it, don't you agree?

BTW... Irocss85: good job. Some folks would never get it without that. Thumbs up!