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when claying? valve spring?

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Old May 6, 2007 | 02:04 AM
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Default when claying? valve spring?

when claying to check ptov clearance do you use the stock spring or the aftermarket one?
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Old May 6, 2007 | 03:12 AM
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you have to use a special light weight checking spring, so your lifter does not compress, and mess up the reading
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Old May 6, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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Use a solid lifter when clay testing.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Why couldnt you compress a hydraulic lifter plunger to where the valve opens a bit and then back it off till the valve closes? After rotating the crank through the valve events, you'd then check the clay for thickness. If anyone knows EXACTLY why this wouldnt work, please let me know. BTW, opening the valve a couple of hundredths absolutely seats the plunger of a hydraulic lifter against the bottom with a stock spring.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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you are supposed to use a modified roller lifter (cup welded so no preload and a test lightweight spring with adustable p-rod checker set to 0 lash.
This way you get the maximum valve drop mimicing full pump up of lifter at max lift and rpm.
also use organic clay.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
you are supposed to use a modified roller lifter (cup welded so no preload and a test lightweight spring with adustable p-rod checker set to 0 lash.
This way you get the maximum valve drop mimicing full pump up of lifter at max lift and rpm.
also use organic clay.
Pred,
How do you know when your lash is set to zero?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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That is when you are unable to wiggle the rocker side to side anymore but still can twist the p-rod. Gotta get a feel for it.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
you are supposed to use a modified roller lifter (cup welded so no preload and a test lightweight spring with adustable p-rod checker set to 0 lash.
This way you get the maximum valve drop mimicing full pump up of lifter at max lift and rpm.
also use organic clay.
Where can you get the lightweight checker spring? How about the modified lifter, or can you simply weld up an old lifter? And this only needs to be done to the #1 cylinder right?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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i took the spring out and put washers in it to get to the same length
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Old May 19, 2007 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by NassyVette
Where can you get the lightweight checker spring? How about the modified lifter, or can you simply weld up an old lifter? And this only needs to be done to the #1 cylinder right?
I'd like to just buy both, but I need to know where also.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I'd like to just buy both, but I need to know where also.
Another member told me the spring comes in a comp degree kit. And I think if you have the checker springs, you don't need a solid lifter.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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The checking springs can be bought at any speed shop... Summit, Jegs, Doug Herbert, etc..... I have used the checking springs along with the standard lifter to check PTV clearance. The checking spring is not strong enough to overcome the plunger in the lifter and push it down. Checking springs are meant for the dial indicator method and not the clay method.

Using the clay method will probably require the use of a solid lifter as you need the valve to make an impression in the clay. You want your springs you are going to run and a solid lifter.

I prefer the dial indicator method of checking PTV clearance vs claying, but claying also has it's place when using pistons with valve reliefs. Both ways work fine but I've always liked the dial indicator method. To do it you will need a degree wheel kit.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...clearance.html

Last edited by Ryan02SS; May 19, 2007 at 01:15 PM.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
The checking springs can be bought at any speed shop... Summit, Jegs, Doug Herbert, etc..... I have used the checking springs along with the standard lifter to check PTV clearance. The checking spring is not strong enough to overcome the plunger in the lifter and push it down. Checking springs are meant for the dial indicator method and not the clay method.

Using the clay method will probably require the use of a solid lifter as you need the valve to make an impression in the clay. You want your springs you are going to run and a solid lifter.

I prefer the dial indicator method of checking PTV clearance vs claying, but claying also has it's place when using pistons with valve reliefs. Both ways work fine but I've always liked the dial indicator method. To do it you will need a degree wheel kit.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...clearance.html


ah, thanks for the clarification!
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Old May 20, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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POWERHOUSE Tools has the stuff you need... A division of CC.
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Old May 21, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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i bought my checker springs at autozone for like $8 took liek a day to come in
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Old May 21, 2007 | 03:04 AM
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I think the checker spring would compress before the clay...
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Old May 21, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mr2guru
I think the checker spring would compress before the clay...
It will, hence why they are only for the dial PTV method.

To do the clay test right you want a solid valvetrain. The springs your going to run on the engine and a solid lifter. I've heard of people using a pumped up hyd lifter but i've never been able to pump one up enough to where the plunger would not move at all.
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Old May 21, 2007 | 01:18 PM
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Why does the spring even matter if you are using the clay or dial indicator method? When you push down on the valve you are using the lifter, pushrod, and rocker to do the pushing. The only slop you may have is if you compress the hydraulic lifter. The valve spring (checker type or real one) serves only to close the valve. If you use a checker spring and a hydraulic lifter you will be fine using clay. If you use actual valve springs, you should probably use a solid lifter.
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Old May 21, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM74
Why does the spring even matter if you are using the clay or dial indicator method? When you push down on the valve you are using the lifter, pushrod, and rocker to do the pushing. The only slop you may have is if you compress the hydraulic lifter. The valve spring (checker type or real one) serves only to close the valve. If you use a checker spring and a hydraulic lifter you will be fine using clay. If you use actual valve springs, you should probably use a solid lifter.
The spring matters as it has to be able to make an indention into the clay when claying. For ex... You assemble the engine for claying, install checking spring, retainer and rocker arm, crank engine over thru the firing process 2 times. You take it apart and pull the head and see the clay has no indention. Great I have plenty PTV clearance! Wrong, the checking spring was not strong enough to push the valve into the clay.
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Old May 21, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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I don't think you need a checker spring for claying. Think about the dynamics of the valve train. The purpose of the spring is to close the valve. As long as you use a solid lifter, the spring won't matter. If you are you using a dial indicator then you need a checking spring so that you can can push the valve down to the piston manually, and read the PTV on the indicator. I might be wrong, but as long as there is a SOLID connection from cam, to lifter, to PR, to rocker, to valve, the spring is not going to effect your clay compression...
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