Help put my mind to ease
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 68
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Help put my mind to ease I'm going to want to double check my p/v clearance with the MS4 and stage 1 heads, but I can't get around the idea that turning the engine by hand is just going to compress the lifters, giving me a false reading. I imagine I'd have to use solid lifters for testing. Is this True? What do you guys do?
Things people should use to "do it right"
cam degree kit
solid lifters
pushrod length checker
valve spring installed height micrometer
Yet, so many say 'dot to dot' and you're good to go.
cam degree kit
solid lifters
pushrod length checker
valve spring installed height micrometer
Yet, so many say 'dot to dot' and you're good to go.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 190
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The following link is to part 2 of a 4 part series from GMHTP on how to rebuild a stroker. If you scroll through to page five and six of this article you might find some useful advice from people who should know what they're doing. IMO.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html
Hope this helps.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html
Hope this helps.
This author is not a professional engine builder, however, and wants to stick with Lunati's recommendations as to valve events. And theoretically, we've already done that. Nonetheless, it's common practice to degree the cam; that is, double-check that the timing of all valve events with respect to crank (and hence, piston) position match up to the specs provided on the cam manufacturer's cam card. This verifies that all parts have been manufactured correctly (highly unlikely with quality components from Lunati and SLP), but more significantly, the degreeing process ensures that the installers haven't made any errors of their own. This is a far more likely scenario--though we'd like to think not that likely!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 68
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You know, you're right. I think I was being lazy and just wanted to hear "ah, just slap it in, it'll be alright". And it very well may be...
But I'm going to do it the way I know it should be done, the way I have read it should be done (from good books, not the interweb). I'm off to get myself a degree wheel, I already have the indicators.
But I'm going to do it the way I know it should be done, the way I have read it should be done (from good books, not the interweb). I'm off to get myself a degree wheel, I already have the indicators.
Easiest way:
Use a low tension checker spring in place of a valve spring. finger tighten the rocker just enough so that it removes all the play. Take your measurements from 10* BTDC to 10* ATDC in 2* increments using a dial indicator on a stand.
Use a low tension checker spring in place of a valve spring. finger tighten the rocker just enough so that it removes all the play. Take your measurements from 10* BTDC to 10* ATDC in 2* increments using a dial indicator on a stand.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 190
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Easiest way:
Use a low tension checker spring in place of a valve spring. finger tighten the rocker just enough so that it removes all the play. Take your measurements from 10* BTDC to 10* ATDC in 2* increments using a dial indicator on a stand.
Use a low tension checker spring in place of a valve spring. finger tighten the rocker just enough so that it removes all the play. Take your measurements from 10* BTDC to 10* ATDC in 2* increments using a dial indicator on a stand.
+1 To that! A little less work in my book than Play-Doh just gotta have the right tools and know-how.