Valve float??
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From: HOUSTON TEXAS
Valve float?? I just dynoed my car at around 5900 6000 rpm valve float shows up. What could be the cause??? I was told dirty fuel filter most probable, also weak pushrod, weak injector unlikely. Any opinions appreciated.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: College Station, TX
If you are willing to do it, this might be the perfect excuse to redo the entire valve train. You can get some beehive springs and some LS7 rockers. Cam and even heads of you like. You could lighten the entire valve train and push your peak hp closer to your redline.
Or you could just focus on the valve float. I wouldn't think much of it unless I race and have a heavily modified car. It doesn't look like you're modified too much. It might not be worth it to even invest in fixing the problem until it's time to redo the whole valve train.
Or you could just focus on the valve float. I wouldn't think much of it unless I race and have a heavily modified car. It doesn't look like you're modified too much. It might not be worth it to even invest in fixing the problem until it's time to redo the whole valve train.
Originally Posted by Shock Hawk
You can get some beehive springs and some LS7 rockers.
Actually the LS7 rockers will not work on the LS1 at all, the LS7 exhausts will wipe way off center and the geometry is wrong. I wouldn't use them at all, stick with the stockers.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 264
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From: College Station, TX
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Actually the LS7 rockers will not work on the LS1 at all, the LS7 exhausts will wipe way off center and the geometry is wrong. I wouldn't use them at all, stick with the stockers.
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Stock rockers with the Harlan Sharp mod are more than Enough for the Average Ls1techie, only real Upgrade would be a set of shaft mounts from T&D, Jessel, Comp.
Valve float comes from the spring not being able to properly control the movement of the valve/ or not having spring pressure to close the valve quickly enough.
Beehives are a great spring for low lift cams, for anything over .600 lift i would recommend a dual spring, i would happily sacrifice 1-2hp for the added safety of having the internal spring keep the valve away form the piston in case of a spring failure.
In an all out race application a beehive is better suited because the harmonics are kept to a minimum; but at the same time a race engine is meticulously maintained and inspected and is not required to go 30k miles before the springs are changed.
Valve float comes from the spring not being able to properly control the movement of the valve/ or not having spring pressure to close the valve quickly enough.
Beehives are a great spring for low lift cams, for anything over .600 lift i would recommend a dual spring, i would happily sacrifice 1-2hp for the added safety of having the internal spring keep the valve away form the piston in case of a spring failure.
In an all out race application a beehive is better suited because the harmonics are kept to a minimum; but at the same time a race engine is meticulously maintained and inspected and is not required to go 30k miles before the springs are changed.
Last edited by ALLBOTTLE; May 11, 2007 at 11:53 AM.
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Originally Posted by Shock Hawk
It doesn't look like you're modified too much. It might not be worth it to even invest in fixing the problem until it's time to redo the whole valve train.
Spend the $350 for a set of TSP platinums/Prc golds/ comp 921's/ AFR 1019's or whatever and if you decide to change the cam thats one less step you'll have to worry about.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 264
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From: College Station, TX
Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
Waiting for something to brake is never the proper way to deal with things.