Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rod Bolt Failure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-10-2007, 11:42 AM
  #21  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Tainted's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 8,425
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

99 t/a bolt ons 93k on bottom end. rod broke in half, shot through block, rod bolts were fine. BUT for cheap insurance on my new motor I bought the ARP2000 rod botls supposedly good to like 9k rpms. its better safe than sorry, I wasn't gonna run a risk in blowing up 6k worth of **** for an 80$ fix
Old 06-10-2007, 12:04 PM
  #22  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
allngn_c5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Western Burbs of Detroit
Posts: 6,524
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yes upgraded rod bolts is definately the way to go. I will be sure to put a few bucks into the rod bolts when I get my new engine in the future. Hopefully I won't need to worry about that for awhile. Spent enough money on my car already.
Old 06-10-2007, 02:21 PM
  #23  
KCS
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
KCS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Conroe, TX
Posts: 8,853
Received 315 Likes on 213 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Thule
i heard this about the 98 bolts, and changed to katech bolts, the crank rod bearing was wpuned as hell.. (sao i belive that romour) but the rod bolt was fine
I got the ARPs for a stock rodded motor I was building awhile ago, and it had said to resize the rods .002". This was to get the bore concentric again.

I heard the Katech's don't require the rods to be resized...what do you think?
Old 06-10-2007, 02:35 PM
  #24  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Tainted's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 8,425
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Im not sure, I torqued all the bolts to 40 ft lbs on the first pass, loosened them, torqued them to 40 ft bls again, and on the third pass I loosened them and torqued to 40 ft lbs for a final time. I though this stretched the rod bolts and allowed them to be centered?

Did we do it right or are we missing somrthing as well?
Old 06-10-2007, 03:02 PM
  #25  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
The Dragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Lightbulb

Originally Posted by ls1muscle
I forsee 1-2 blown motors in the next couple of days


Funny chit



Guys, debating about a VERY cheap mod that improves the durability of your motor is a little ridiculous.

Just change the rod bolts
Old 06-10-2007, 03:39 PM
  #26  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
tee-boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by The Dragon


Funny chit



Guys, debating about a VERY cheap mod that improves the durability of your motor is a little ridiculous.

Just change the rod bolts
Very cheap put a PITA.
Old 06-10-2007, 04:08 PM
  #27  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
 
02SOMWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wallkill ,NY
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I only have about 2,000 miles on my stock bottom end but since 750 miles it has been 6,500-6,800 rpm's at launch with 7100 rpm shifts all track only. Not sure how safe thats been for me but it's still holding together making 450rwhp threw a 12 bolt with 4.30 gears and a steel driveshaft. I am going with a bigger cam and will be spinning the engine a little higher so I am upgrading to the Katech rod bolts for peace of mind . Wonder if the stock rod bolts would hold if I kept them in
Old 06-10-2007, 07:42 PM
  #28  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
The Dragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Lightbulb

Originally Posted by tee-boy
Very cheap put a PITA.
Agreed.

But a motor failure/swap would be a bigger PITA; much more expensive too.




Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
I only have about 2,000 miles on my stock bottom end but since 750 miles it has been 6,500-6,800 rpm's at launch with 7100 rpm shifts all track only. Not sure how safe thats been for me but it's still holding together making 450rwhp threw a 12 bolt with 4.30 gears and a steel driveshaft. I am going with a bigger cam and will be spinning the engine a little higher so I am upgrading to the Katech rod bolts for peace of mind . Wonder if the stock rod bolts would hold if I kept them in

I'd upgrade the rod bolts just to be safe were I you.

The valvetrain should concern people more than the internals

Spinning high-lift/high-duration camshafts to ~7K rpm's requires a stout valvetrain; that would be the weak link IMO.
Old 06-11-2007, 10:43 AM
  #29  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Hocky
On my 2002 motor, I saw 7200rpm on a monster cam and 200+ shot every day for 2 years. When it finally came apart, it seems as if the rod stretched itself apart from rpm.... all rod bolts were intact.
That is some promising news! Sorry for your loss, of course, but thanks for pushing the limits for us!
Old 06-14-2007, 01:15 AM
  #30  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
 
blacksskid07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ls1muscle
I forsee 1-2 blown motors in the next couple of days

hahaha that **** made me laugh
I'm going to swap bolts as well when I get my ms4. Im not sure wether to go with ARP bolt or katech bolts
Old 06-14-2007, 05:30 PM
  #31  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
408 z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: shawnee,ks
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

someone said they changed the rod bolt design in late 2000. I have a 2000 TA and was wondering what month or whatever is considred to be a "late" model
Old 06-14-2007, 06:16 PM
  #32  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
GuitsBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 6,249
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 408 z28
someone said they changed the rod bolt design in late 2000. I have a 2000 TA and was wondering what month or whatever is considred to be a "late" model
Unfortunately theres no way to tell that Im aware of. There have been reports of 2000 cars with 241 heads (they also changes mid year) however with the weak rod bolts still.
Old 06-14-2007, 08:11 PM
  #33  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
 
02SOMWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wallkill ,NY
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 408 z28
someone said they changed the rod bolt design in late 2000. I have a 2000 TA and was wondering what month or whatever is considred to be a "late" model
I have a 2002 and I'm changing mine . I wind mine up to 7100 now . I've been good so far but I would rather be safe than sorry
Old 06-15-2007, 07:34 AM
  #34  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
allngn_c5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Western Burbs of Detroit
Posts: 6,524
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I have 2000 FRC that I purchased in May 2000, what rod bolts do I have ?? The weaker ones or the upgraded ones ??'

How hard is it to upgrade rod bolts ?? Cost ??



Quick Reply: Rod Bolt Failure



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:40 PM.