2000 SS Tear Down with pics.
Originally Posted by Irocss85
OMG. just realized I mistyped. I meant to say 11.5's. EASY. fixed it now though. so noone else reading this thinks Im a retard. 
BTW, maybe I missed it, but what cam are you running? and did you have to flycut? I see the clay and dial indicator testing pics, but no flycut. what clearance's did you have? just curious.
chris
BTW, maybe I missed it, but what cam are you running? and did you have to flycut? I see the clay and dial indicator testing pics, but no flycut. what clearance's did you have? just curious.
chris
It is not a 'huge' cam but I hope enough to muster at least some 11.80's.
I am running a Pro Yank 3400 that I intended for my supercharged set-up, may end up a little tight.
I hope to fire it this weekend.
sweet. yeah thats a smaller cam, but, the heads/intake/stall will surely get you into 11's almost garaunteed with some decent air. not sure where you live, but up here in MI its been pretty cool lately.
cant wait to hear the results.
cant wait to hear the results.
2000 Camaro SS teardown Finally got around to completing more stuff. Haven't fired it yet, hoping this weekend.
Buttoned up the underneath. Had to move the BMR torque arm mount to the inside set of bolt holes to line up the driveshaft in the tunnel. This required some minimal grinding on the Moser cast iron arm mount.
Installed all the front end pieces, A-arms, spindles, brakes, etc.
Installed the Magnaflow exhaust.
Installed the driveshaft, driveshaft loop, and the deep aluminum trans pan. Plugged the rear 02 ports on the headers and ran the wire extensions for the front 02's.
Waiting for a 3.75" piece of silicon hose to arrive from intakehosesdotcom to connect the MAF to the lid, then connect a few more wires under the hood, run the catch can hoses to plenum and install the plug wires and plugs and I should be ready to crank it over......
Buttoned up the underneath. Had to move the BMR torque arm mount to the inside set of bolt holes to line up the driveshaft in the tunnel. This required some minimal grinding on the Moser cast iron arm mount.
Installed all the front end pieces, A-arms, spindles, brakes, etc.
Installed the Magnaflow exhaust.
Installed the driveshaft, driveshaft loop, and the deep aluminum trans pan. Plugged the rear 02 ports on the headers and ran the wire extensions for the front 02's.
Waiting for a 3.75" piece of silicon hose to arrive from intakehosesdotcom to connect the MAF to the lid, then connect a few more wires under the hood, run the catch can hoses to plenum and install the plug wires and plugs and I should be ready to crank it over......
2000 Camaro SS reassembly Here is a few more pics of the rear completed. I had to get a UMI adjustable rear panhard to center up the rear in the car.
Oh yeah, forgot to add that one of my set backs was I cracked the housing on my 3000 mile A/C compressor when reinstalling it. These things are really flimsy and I guess I got a bit carried away and tightened it down unevenly. I was only using a 6" box end wrench when it happened. I heard pissttt, hisssss and started to see some PAG oil and 134A start seeping out of the hairline crack. This little setback cost me 315.00 for a NEW AC Delco replacement.
After talking to some of my friends who wrench on GM stuff for a living I had heard it was not so uncommon, the proper torque and sequence is critical on these compressors. Ahh, the price you pay for a COLD A/C! 
There goes the M/T drag radials I wanted to get right away after the tune.
Oh yeah, forgot to add that one of my set backs was I cracked the housing on my 3000 mile A/C compressor when reinstalling it. These things are really flimsy and I guess I got a bit carried away and tightened it down unevenly. I was only using a 6" box end wrench when it happened. I heard pissttt, hisssss and started to see some PAG oil and 134A start seeping out of the hairline crack. This little setback cost me 315.00 for a NEW AC Delco replacement.
After talking to some of my friends who wrench on GM stuff for a living I had heard it was not so uncommon, the proper torque and sequence is critical on these compressors. Ahh, the price you pay for a COLD A/C! There goes the M/T drag radials I wanted to get right away after the tune.
Originally Posted by helicoil
Here is a few more pics of the rear completed. I had to get a UMI adjustable rear panhard to center up the rear in the car.
Oh yeah, forgot to add that one of my set backs was I cracked the housing on my 3000 mile A/C compressor when reinstalling it. These things are really flimsy and I guess I got a bit carried away and tightened it down unevenly. I was only using a 6" box end wrench when it happened. I heard pissttt, hisssss and started to see some PAG oil and 134A start seeping out of the hairline crack. This little setback cost me 315.00 for a NEW AC Delco replacement. After talking to some of my friends who wrench on GM stuff for a living I had heard it was not so uncommon, the proper torque and sequence is critical on these compressors. Ahh, the price you pay for a COLD A/C!
There goes the M/T drag radials I wanted to get right away after the tune.
Oh yeah, forgot to add that one of my set backs was I cracked the housing on my 3000 mile A/C compressor when reinstalling it. These things are really flimsy and I guess I got a bit carried away and tightened it down unevenly. I was only using a 6" box end wrench when it happened. I heard pissttt, hisssss and started to see some PAG oil and 134A start seeping out of the hairline crack. This little setback cost me 315.00 for a NEW AC Delco replacement.
After talking to some of my friends who wrench on GM stuff for a living I had heard it was not so uncommon, the proper torque and sequence is critical on these compressors. Ahh, the price you pay for a COLD A/C! There goes the M/T drag radials I wanted to get right away after the tune.
Originally Posted by RoDan
wow, lookin' good man. Everything is so nice, clean and purdy!
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2000 Ss
Originally Posted by Irocss85
yeah I did all that a few years ago when I did my eng. build. cleaned everything, painted some stuff. almost cant tell nowadays. but you just gotta keep it clean after all that work to get it to look like that. and my car wasnt a 3K mile car either when i did it, so perhaps it wasnt as dirty as mine was Im sure. and you wont be driving it all the time like I have done. power sprayers are your friend.
I hear you, since there wasn't much clean up I figured the detailing wouldn't be so bad right now. Although, it is shame GM doesn't put any type of primer on any of theparts before they paint them chassis black. With the car only having 3000 miles on it most all the underside pieces were rusting. I media blasted anything that could unbolt from the car, used a good expoxy primer and then followed up with a semi-gloss black urethane with a flattener added to giveit the stock look. I didn't want things to be goddy, just clean.
A few trips to the track and the burnout box and it will be like everyone elses, but after a powerwash it will look good again (because there will still be some paint there)
Not being an everyday, or winter car will help too.
Originally Posted by rocksws6
From all the money you already spent it doesn't seem like your hurting for money. What do you do for a job anyways?
There is no doubt these are not the cheapest cars to build, as with anything NEW it cost quite a bit to do anything with. Not much like the older hot rods I have had in the past. The damn lid and air element and bellows cost quite a bit more than a 14" chrome air cleaner on my 66 Chevy.
Not to mention the headers and exhaust system, kind of ridiculous by comparison. Anyone who has gone down the road of a FAST 90 and NW 90 TB can vouch for how crazy priced that stuff is. That would have gotten you one bad *** 1050 Holley and a manifold with every bell and whistle you could think of for the ole BBC's - AND it flowed fuel, not just air!!
Last edited by helicoil; Sep 11, 2007 at 12:51 PM.
2000 Camaro FINISHED I have the car running and have been sorting through the normal gremlins with a build that was this in depth.
Car sounds mild (Catted Y, Magnaflow cat back, and 224/230 114lsa cam). Could almost be sleeper, just a slight hint of a lope. I like this aspect of it. Pretty much content with it so far. I have no engine noise to speak of, fairly quiet for 145 lbs of seat pressure, no clackity clack, maybe a slight sewing machine sound probably due the XE-R lobe, good oil pressure and is running 185 degrees.
Went to align the front end and adjust the rear suspension today.
Set the rear track width, thrust angle, and pinion angle and then adjusted the front. Drives nice.
Drove it for 10 miles to break in rear gears.
NEW Moser rear has gear whine on decel. Followed break in procedure to a T. Ran at 2-3 minutes on the lift and let cool overnight. Drove it 10 miles at varying speeds tonight after the alignment and am letting cool over night. Don't think this whine will go away though.
Looks like I may have got one of the noisy ones. You would think that if rear gears was your business that this would be something you could get right 100% of the time. Little disappointed with the rear so far........
Tune is scheduled for Friday. Any ideas on what it should make?? I have a tight *** Moser 9" that is still making a fair amount of heat (break in) and an A4 with a 3400 Yank and catalytic converters. I will be happy with anything around 400 RWHP.
If all goes as planned I should hit the dragstrip next week or weekend. Ordered my MT Drag Radilals today 275/40 17's. If she goes in the high 11's things will be good.
Stay tuned. I will try to work on some video (sound)
Car sounds mild (Catted Y, Magnaflow cat back, and 224/230 114lsa cam). Could almost be sleeper, just a slight hint of a lope. I like this aspect of it. Pretty much content with it so far. I have no engine noise to speak of, fairly quiet for 145 lbs of seat pressure, no clackity clack, maybe a slight sewing machine sound probably due the XE-R lobe, good oil pressure and is running 185 degrees.
Went to align the front end and adjust the rear suspension today.
Set the rear track width, thrust angle, and pinion angle and then adjusted the front. Drives nice.
Drove it for 10 miles to break in rear gears.
NEW Moser rear has gear whine on decel. Followed break in procedure to a T. Ran at 2-3 minutes on the lift and let cool overnight. Drove it 10 miles at varying speeds tonight after the alignment and am letting cool over night. Don't think this whine will go away though.
Looks like I may have got one of the noisy ones. You would think that if rear gears was your business that this would be something you could get right 100% of the time. Little disappointed with the rear so far........Tune is scheduled for Friday. Any ideas on what it should make?? I have a tight *** Moser 9" that is still making a fair amount of heat (break in) and an A4 with a 3400 Yank and catalytic converters. I will be happy with anything around 400 RWHP.
If all goes as planned I should hit the dragstrip next week or weekend. Ordered my MT Drag Radilals today 275/40 17's. If she goes in the high 11's things will be good.
Stay tuned. I will try to work on some video (sound)
What heads and intake are on the car?
You will probably be close to 400 RWHP, but I think most people who hit that on stock heads have a bigger cam.
Keep us updated!
EDIT
You should definitely be over 400RWHP. Probly more along the lines of 430/400 (depending on dyno of course).
You will probably be close to 400 RWHP, but I think most people who hit that on stock heads have a bigger cam.
Keep us updated!
EDIT
Planning on installing AFR 205's @ 62 cc's, Cometic .040's, ported FAST 90/NW 90 TB, ARP rod bolts, custom cam, Kooks 1 7/8" hedders, Magnaflow Cat back with custom 'factory' appearing twin tips, FLT Level 5 A4, Yank Pro 3400, Moser 9" with 3.70's, BMR SFC's, BMR C.M. torque arm, BMR C.M. LCA's, N-motion timing chain, SLP oil pump, Yella Terra ultra light rollers, PCV mod
yeah looks really good man. cant wait to see some vid. and hear that thing. Im guessing 415RWHP (mustand #s) and 365RWTQ. but, I wouldnt be suprised to see higher #s either.
chris
but, I wouldnt be suprised to see higher #s either.chris
2000 Camaro FINISHED Had the car dyno tuned today.
The graph is attached. I hit my goal of 400 RWHP, it made 401RWHP.
This is through an A4 with a 3400 Yank Pro Series converter for my Procharged 403 set-up and through the 9" Ford with 3.70 gears and 30 miles on it.
It was a HOT 92 degree day here but the tuner said the correction factor takes this in to consideration.
There is an area of the graph that the tuner didn't like, nor did I. He suggested it was mechanical after trying some timing and fuel corrections in the 5800-5900 RPM area with no real positive impact.
The engine wasn't missing a beat or going flat by the seat of the pants feeling, but this dip in HP and torque was there on every pull.
So what do you think.....will it muster 11.80's? It is a stock weight, maybe heavier car, with all the bolt ons 2000 SS/ A4 / 9" moser.
It looks like it is going to take a killer 1.60 60ft or better to get me into the 11's where I want to be. I hope to be trying next week.
The graph is attached. I hit my goal of 400 RWHP, it made 401RWHP.
This is through an A4 with a 3400 Yank Pro Series converter for my Procharged 403 set-up and through the 9" Ford with 3.70 gears and 30 miles on it.
It was a HOT 92 degree day here but the tuner said the correction factor takes this in to consideration.
There is an area of the graph that the tuner didn't like, nor did I. He suggested it was mechanical after trying some timing and fuel corrections in the 5800-5900 RPM area with no real positive impact.
The engine wasn't missing a beat or going flat by the seat of the pants feeling, but this dip in HP and torque was there on every pull.
So what do you think.....will it muster 11.80's? It is a stock weight, maybe heavier car, with all the bolt ons 2000 SS/ A4 / 9" moser.
It looks like it is going to take a killer 1.60 60ft or better to get me into the 11's where I want to be. I hope to be trying next week.
Last edited by helicoil; Sep 21, 2007 at 11:45 PM.
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11's? no sweat man. Point n shoot. I bet you'll be suprised. I wouldn't be suprised if it goes 11.70's (if it hooks, thats the key) I bet its no problem if you have good tires under it, especially with all of you suspension stuff. Stalled autos can lay down some BIG numbers for their supposed horsepower rating to the wheels.
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Wow i read every post on this thread, and even before you had assembled your car mine was feeling slow. I see you having no problems hitting mid to low 11's, good luck at the track. Awesome write-up.
-Joel
-Joel
very impressive #s. for some reason, I thought yours was a stick. guess I should gone back and read the whole thing again before I made my guess. lol. still though, thats around 35-370 on a mustang dyno, and I know a couple guys who go mid11's on those kinda #s with the same power. so my guess would be 11.6's with low 1.6 sixties. with the right tires/suspension, you shouldnt have any problems hitting 1.5x sixties either. you WILL love that feeling more then anything else so far. trust me.
very nice install, i can tell you take pride in your work and it shows..nice set up
the i-pipe looks a lil close to the rearend and the drivshaft..it might of been the angle of the picture thow..
i would like to hear a clip of your car runnin and a better pic of the tips you are runnin..and so far how do you like the tranny?
keep up the good work man and ill bet youll beat your goal of 11.80s..should run at least 118mph have fun with her and be safe.
the i-pipe looks a lil close to the rearend and the drivshaft..it might of been the angle of the picture thow..
i would like to hear a clip of your car runnin and a better pic of the tips you are runnin..and so far how do you like the tranny?
keep up the good work man and ill bet youll beat your goal of 11.80s..should run at least 118mph have fun with her and be safe.