Nick-lt1

iTrader: (1)

I dont think you will have a problem hitting your goal of 11.80's.

ProjecT 9

iTrader: (6)

give us some updates!!

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

I was thinking the same thing. That converter and a good cam will easily put you at 11.80 if you hook.

With what you have low 11's should be easy even in full weight.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I hope I get there. I really planned on doing the LS2 (403) this year, but knew finding the time would be tough. Little concerned about some things also with the Procharger.

For now, I pulled the heads off of the 403 and am putting them on the 346 along with most of the other car mods that need to be done for the Procharged 403.

This car needs some miles put on it anyway.......

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Well had some time away from work and didn't get anything done that I wanted to. These things called 'priorities' got in my way........

Here is where I am at. One hang up is I ordered a K-member from UMI and it didn't make it to me by the weekend. I also need to do some detailing and painting which hasn't gotten done yet either to allow me to start going back together.

I did button up the longblock, but that is about it. Had planned on using the ARP bolts which probably would have been fine, but I didn't like them. They were 3 grams heavier (27.7g) than the stock bolt and ferrule (24.7g). That's 6 grams per rod. The added weight would probably not have hurt being that it 'overbalances' the crank to the rotating assembly. Many builders prefer to do this anyway on high revving engines. The factory balance for an engine that is not operating at a sustained 5000 RPM plus is 50%. Overbalancing would put things at 51%-53% - their call. I ended up grabbing my ankles and bought the Katech bolts (24g). I will say they are nice. Kind of remind me of some SPS bolts I had in a set of Carillo SBC rods

I also had a custom cam I had hoped to run which should have given me some more mid-range torque which wouldd have been nice for street driving. It didn't have enough piston to valve unfortunately. It would have worked fine if my heads hadn't been milled like they are. I only had .050" clearance on the intake with it.

I ended up having to use the 224/230 Comp XER lobe on a 114 lsa. Installed at a 113 ICL I have .095" on the intake and a ton on the exhaust. Didn't even bother to measure it - plenty! This is with a .038" mill on my AFR 205 heads and a .041" gasket thickness. My heads come in at 62cc after the chamber work I did to use them on the 4.005" bore LS2

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Here is where the extra weight comes from on the ARP bolt - length.

Here are some pics of the cam degree and P to V checks I made. I would recommend using the dial indicator over the clay. It is much more accurate.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I used a SLP (overpriced) oil pump and had to clearance the timing cover a small amount to clear the bolt heads and the N-motion timing chain - single roller. I like the fact that it has a torrington bearing on the cam sprocket and no dicking around with the oil pump spacers. I have the SLP/ Powerbound 25% underdrive pulley also.

I used the Scoggin Dickey ported LS6 pump in my LS2 and liked it better, plus it was cheaper.

Cleaned all the graphite head gasket residue off the deck and really contemplated on what head gasket to use - Felpro 1041 or the Cometic MLS.
The deck finish on the block looked like it could have been smoother after cleaning it all up in order to use the MLS. Being the factory used a graphite, they weren't overly concerned with Ra for a MLS. I went ahead and use the Cometics

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

After chasing all the block head bolt holes with an old head bolt that had 4 flutes cut into it I threaded the ARP head studs into the block. I don't know why anyone would want to use anything but these. IMO, head bolts would be just asking for problems. I have installed alot of helicoils and the last thing I would want to do is install one in one of these while in the car.

Installed all the covers with a borrowed Kentmoore tool kit - man that is a nice kit, too bad I don't have an extra 1250.00 laying around to buy one.

Installed the SLP underdrive pulley and moved onto the heads.

I am now waiting for an LS6 valley plate to show before finsihing it off with the FAST/MAMO intake.

Thinking about GMMP valve covers and the Katech coil reloc kit also. Anyone using this combo. Sure beats those pricey valve covers. I have an idea or two on how to make it work. I almost hate to cover up those nice looking Yell Terra 6645 Ultra Lights. They are pretty nice pieces. I ended up having to pick up some 7.350" pushords for my set up to get about 3/4" turn of lifter pre-load. This turns out to be about .075" that you are sinking the lifter plunger based on my measuring. I hope its quiet!

That is all I have now. Any predictions on performance. I am new to the LS crowd. Not sure what to expect. My goal was an 11.80 at FULL weight

ProjecT 9

iTrader: (6)

nice work man. looks like you have a nice work area as well. is it a shop or inside your garage? just curious

alright so let me get this straight. you have a 403 but you decided to not use it and build your stock 346? I'm a little confused on why you didnt build the 403 if you have it already? time/budget?

i dont see why you couldnt pull off 11.80's. i think you can go faster once the whole car is dialed in with the new setup. whats your goal power wise, and how much boost do you want to run?

Jon

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Thanks!
First off that is my garage set-up. Not done yet, they never are....

I built the 403 complete over the winter for boost (9.3:1) I bought a Procharger F1A with the twin 4.5's intercooler package which is not really adeqaute for the head unit. Didn't know that initially.....so I went with a FMIC after the fact. Now I am a little reluctant to mod the front of the car, at least right now. Also, fitting all the Procharger stuff in nicely will require some additional time fabricating things, especially to maintain the A/C - a must for this street car!
The radiator and condenser and blower inlet are all pretty cramped and don't fit very well together with dual fans (even aftermarket) - that are marginal at best. All things that make a nice reliable street driving car not so reliable.

I am kind of on the fence with the whole set-up actually, so I decided to hop up the stock engine and continue to put the remainder of the drivetrain in the car, 9" and built tranny, converter, SFC's, Torque arm, K-member, line-loc, etc and have some fun with not having to hack on the car.

I am starting to sway a bit from the whole Procharged set-up. The set-up I have is nice for a racer, but I am not sure about for daily driver type. Plus, the F1A sounds awfully loud. I am a little more conservative these days. May see it all for sale soon, and I may go NA, maybe a 427" LS2 w/ 225 AFR's, FAST 90 set-up, and a little N20.

Its funny, I have owned the car for a little over a year. Put about 400 miles on it. Bought it to build as moderate street performance car. Initial goals were mid 11's. Went for a rid in a buddy of mines 2002 Z with a Vortec at 9lbs and was addicted to the power and comfort ride he had. Major sleeper, flat hood, quiet as a mouse, and had to run bottom 11's. He has put 30,XXX plus on it with only changing oil. Nice set-up on a completely stock engine, not even headers. I wanted to do something similar

I didn't like the Vortec look covering the whole engine up and all, so I went looking at the Prochargers. The D1SC was hot, but being I was putting together a 403 at the time I was convinced to get the larger head unit. Probably the right choice, but a little tighter on fitment - especially with A/C, too big for the twin 4.5" intercooler, and ALOT louder.. More modding to make the install right - the F1A is something the actual 'Procharger kit' is not designed for. It is actually very hard to slow the blower down enough to only generate a reliable 12 lbs of boost - which is what I initially wanted to do.

I have had race cars in the past, and fast street cars. I bought this and wanted it to be a 'comfortable' quick reliable driver. Not too loud, not too quiet, not too racy. It is my first Gen III/LS endeavor and I am hooked. Hard to even get excited about my 555" BBC these days......

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Not yet....taking small bites.
Your car looks to have some nice mods. Do you have any track performance on it. Curious what it runs....

shooter

iTrader: (2)

My MODS are going on now, my tuning date is 16th July, and i'll post results I can't wait, I'm thinking my trans, driveshaft, and rearend won't last long?
Thing I have to look into..

95 Z28

iTrader: (21)

Very nice, well thought-out setup you've got there. You won't have any trouble reaching your goal of 11.80's after you get her dialed in.

Specialized

iTrader: (15)

Wow. Excellent detailed writeup and good info especially on the rod bolts. I would have never thought twice about the weight between rod bolts until you posted that. I was going to go with the Katechs anyway, but this just solidifies my choice. Your combo is almost identical to what I am in the process of building.. but mine will be a forged 347/different sized cam. I was speaking with a few other guys around here and I was turned on to the TFS heads over the AFRs (205) I had originally intended to use. We'll see how it pans out, maybe if you see good results with your setup, Ill put a twist on it. Ive got a few ideas for my setup to make it quite unique. ::subscribes::

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Had a miserable summer cold, hard to get rid of. Been out of commission for a couple weeks. Just tinkering when I can. Here are few things I accomplished.

-LS6 Valley Plate
-Cleaned and painted some undercar parts
-Fit UMI K- member
-Poly motor mounts
-Turned down the stock intake rocker bolts to remove tip that was hanging out into the intake port (ported heads)

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

good, so you havent put on the TCI flexplate yet. not sure if they are still doin this, but I got one of those for a customer, and it lasted all summer just fine. winter rolls around and the car came back for another round of mods, this one including another "built" tranny and when I pulled the tranny off the engine, I almost threw up. some of the flexplate bolts had become loose due to the F'n coating TCI used. its a very thick powdercoating and when you torque down the flexplate, it will compress after time, and the bolts become loose.
anyways, long story short, if its coated, not painted, then grind off the paint under the bolts heads and you'll be good to go.


good luck with the build, looks your on top of everything overthere. Im sure 11.8's will be no problem with good air, good launch. Id actually expect more like -- EDIT11.5's EDIT-- if that converter is 3500stall or higher. (dont remember seeing what convertor you got)

Specialized

iTrader: (15)

Bah. You should just buy an mn12 and be done with the auto stuff. Row them gears.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Are these the GMPP valve covers you were talking about? Or were you thinking about the C5R covers?

I bought these right when they first became available about a year and a half ago. I wanted to clean up the under hood area and these fit the bill for me. Good luck with your project..

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

good info on the flywheel, makes sense.

If this thing only runs a 12.50 after all of this I'll be bummed. Looking for 11's.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

[QUOTE=slt200mph]Are these the GMPP valve covers you were talking about? Or were you thinking about the C5R covers?

I bought these right when they first became available about a year and a half ago. I wanted to clean up the under hood area and these fit the bill for me. Good luck with your project..


Yes, the GMPP. I got them and like them the best, but on the under side they have ball milled them to clear the rockers I suppose and it is not flat, so I could not drill and tap them to use the Katech coil relocation kit like I wanted to. I thought that look would have been ****.

I ended up grabbing my ankles again and bought the Katech covers.
I tried to get them to do a Chevrolet engraving and they cannot because or legal concerns with GM.

Your underhood looks tasty, nice and clean.