Do you need to degree the cam and shim the springs on a small cam?
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Do you need to degree the cam and shim the springs on a small cam?
While doing research which cam to get, I kept reading about people degreeing their cam and adjusting preload by shimming the valve springs. Most of the time this involved bigger cams and aftermarket heads.
I went with a very basic setup in my 98, just stock heads, stock length hardened pushrods, Comp 918 springs, and a TR224 on a 112 LSA. The cam was put in using the "dot to dot" method, and the stock springs were simply replaced with the 918s. Was this the wrong thing to do, is that what might help cause my rather low dyno numbers?
Here's the graph again:
Just looking for lost hp....
Manny
I went with a very basic setup in my 98, just stock heads, stock length hardened pushrods, Comp 918 springs, and a TR224 on a 112 LSA. The cam was put in using the "dot to dot" method, and the stock springs were simply replaced with the 918s. Was this the wrong thing to do, is that what might help cause my rather low dyno numbers?
Here's the graph again:
Just looking for lost hp....
Manny
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Originally Posted by BlackSVT03
Hmmmm... Those numbers IMO seem about right for a TR224. Those are about what I put down... but Im also a stalled automatic so mine should be lower anyways.
What did yours put down on the dyno?
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Degreeing the cam ensures a correct installation, but you also need an adjustable timing set to correct if correction is required. Shimming the springs will give a higher seat and over the nose pressure when required. 918's setup at around 1.765" on a stock setup, so your seat pressure is over 130# that is advertised at 1.800" anyhow. Did you measure your installed height?
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I installed a 233/233 cam and installed it dot-to-dot. I also installed new springs without checking the height. It does not do you any good to degree the cam unless your chain is adjustable. If your cam chain is adjustable then you can. I am not sure about the springs but I though most of them are direct replacements for stock.
Bill
Bill
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Yeah I am clueless with all the intricate valvetrain stuff, hence the rather dumb question. We did not measure the spring height after installation, we were just glad we got them in there j/k my buddy did all the work on the car, but again, we didn't measure the installed spring height.
And my timing chain is non-adjustable, it's a JWIS or Cartek chain that I got from Thunder Racing, it seems a bit beefier than the LS2 chain, but a lot more expensive at 150 bucks.
Well, the car is going in tomorrow to be re-tuned by Mike Norris. I doubt he'll find any more power, but I am not very confident in the guy that tuned it 2 years ago.
Thanks for responses guys!
And my timing chain is non-adjustable, it's a JWIS or Cartek chain that I got from Thunder Racing, it seems a bit beefier than the LS2 chain, but a lot more expensive at 150 bucks.
Well, the car is going in tomorrow to be re-tuned by Mike Norris. I doubt he'll find any more power, but I am not very confident in the guy that tuned it 2 years ago.
Thanks for responses guys!
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
I dont know about lost HP, but that graph is really broken up at the higher RPM's. Were you getting any KR?
It may look like it's breaking up coz the smoothing is set to 0....but yeah, I was wondering about that.
What would cause knock retard?
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Originally Posted by MannyZ28
It may look like it's breaking up coz the smoothing is set to 0....but yeah, I was wondering about that.
What would cause knock retard?
What would cause knock retard?