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How much bigger for oversized bearings?

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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Default How much bigger for oversized bearings?

First off, this is not a LS1 or even chevy motor. Its on a 1999 Pontiac Sunfire. Sorry to post it on this website but there arent any "Sunfire Forums" and I know you guys know what your doing. Even tho i have a low post count, I spend alot of time on this site. With that said..

I spun a bearing on my #4 cylinder. So i dropped my oil pan and replaced the bearing with a new one and put it all back. There must be some play still on the rod beacuse anything after 2k RPM theres a slight knock. Not that bad tho. I went to Orileys to get an oversized bearing and they said they came in incriments of 10/1000ths. How can i find out how much bigger I need? Also if I need say 25/1000 oversized could i buy a 30/1000 and have a machine shop shave some off? Just remember this is a puny 4 cyl. (2.2) and I just want a temporary fix or any other suggestions that might stop the knock... Once i sell this one I will be talking to someone here for a WS6
Thanks!
-Paul
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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www.j-body.org
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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I think plasti-gauge (sp?) will tell you the clearance you have. Then you can compare that measurement to what the clearance is supposed to be and get a bearing that is larger by that difference.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 12:59 AM
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reduce that fraction ttt for you...
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
I think plasti-gauge (sp?) will tell you the clearance you have. Then you can compare that measurement to what the clearance is supposed to be and get a bearing that is larger by that difference.
can I get that measurement going through the oil pan? I talk to a friend of mine and he said he thought I have to have the crank out.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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I think you can take the measurement without removing the crank, but aren't you going to remove the crank anyway to replace the bearing? You might want to take the measurement twice, once on the main cap side and once on the block side to see if the clearance is the same.

I'm not an engine expert, though. I'm just going off what I do know.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
I think you can take the measurement without removing the crank, but aren't you going to remove the crank anyway to replace the bearing? You might want to take the measurement twice, once on the main cap side and once on the block side to see if the clearance is the same.

I'm not an engine expert, though. I'm just going off what I do know.
I was not planning on removing the crank. I thought the only way to get the crank out of the car was by basically pulling the enitre motor. I would like to make this a quick fix by going throught the oil pan, can the crank be removed from here?
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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ive also had a few people tell me to put some sawdust in my oil, put in some lucas oil additive or try a super heavy weight oil. would this do anything? really the knock isnt that bad, its quite at idle.

Last edited by pecosbull; Jun 30, 2007 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pecosbull
I was not planning on removing the crank. I thought the only way to get the crank out of the car was by basically pulling the enitre motor. I would like to make this a quick fix by going throught the oil pan, can the crank be removed from here?
You just wizzed past my knowledge with that one, sorry. I don't know.

Originally Posted by pecosbull
ive also had a few people tell me to put some sawdust in my oil, put in some lucas oil additive or try a super heavy weight oil. would this do anything? really the knock isnt that bad, its quite at idle.
That sounds like a really bad idea. It will probably plug up some passages. I remember hearing about sleazy used car salesmen in years past using heavy oil with sawdust to hide knocking and griding in damaged motors and transmissions.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Maybe you should post in the internal engine section.

Generation III Internal Engine:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5

Generation IV Internal Ingine:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine-80/

You might get better/more-knowledgeable responses.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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haha ya, I dont think I could ever pour sawdust into a motor.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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Think you can move this thread to Generation III Internal Engine? Thanks for the help so far.
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Old Jul 2, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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TTT.
Can anyone help him out?
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 05:42 AM
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Im gona use restraint here and just say that the motor needs to come apart....that is all.
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Old Jul 3, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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The crank needs to go to a machine shop to be turned and then an oversized bearing selected based on the journal size after it is turned.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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okay thanks, so i still am wondering can i drop the crank throught the oil pan by removing all the rod caps?
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 11:36 PM
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yes u can so it that way if its a two piece seal but u have to unbolt the tranny obviously and with a spun bearing the rod hole has gone oval hence the knock, still no matter what bearing u put in there it will end up causing more damage. there is no temp fix for it. when this bearing fail which its almost there just hope nothing else happens like the rod snaps in half. anything worth doing is worth doing at least halfway right. get the crank turned 10 under and replace that rod.
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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quick question...not for a camaro but does sawdust have any bad effects? i have an s10 that has bad pressure and knocks sometimes....need it to last a little longer
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Old Jul 19, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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um..yes. Plugged oil passages come to mind not to mention spinning a bunch of sawdust between bearing surfaces - I could see a wasted motor in no time...
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