Cam Install Problems/Tips?
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Cam Install Problems/Tips? Could anyone tell me what are the best things to double check after doing a cam install? Had some friends help me install the cam the last time but this time I'm gonna tackle it myself.
I know the valve springs will probably be the hardest part. I also should check the o-ring on the oil pump? Anything else y'all would suggest on a first timer? Tips of the trade would be great! Appreciate it guys!!
PS: This is going in a C5.
I know the valve springs will probably be the hardest part. I also should check the o-ring on the oil pump? Anything else y'all would suggest on a first timer? Tips of the trade would be great! Appreciate it guys!!
PS: This is going in a C5.
Not sure of the logistical aspect of changing a cam on the c5, but make sure that if it's going in dot-to-dot that it IS dot to dot, I posted here and looked at it for over an hour making sure it was lined up. Careful putting the cam in, first 75% is easy, then it becomes an interesting balancing act to get the last bit in. I posted a thread in here asking how to line up the cam gear on the cam, because my chain wasn't fully seating in the lower sprocket. Valve springs, either rent the tools from 99blancoSS or get the crane tool, it's an MVP. Just take your time and don't rush. If you get frustrated, take a break. changing the oil pump? If so, be careful of the pickup tube bolt.
-J
-J
Double check dot-to-dot. Clean all bolts with brake cleaner or mineral spirits, then loctite everything internal. Rotate the motor by hand a few time to make sure nothing binds up. Make sure you dont have any parts left over. I knew someone who forgot the rocker trays and started the motor and bent every valve. Also, leave the back coil pack bolt off so you dont have to deal with it ever again.
yeah, coolant will need to burp a few times to get all the air out of the system. x2 for loctite on the rocker bolts and cam bolts. Be sure you have a good torque wrench. I've done 4 LS1 cam swaps now and other than pulling the radiator & changing valve springs, it was an easy job! Oh yeah, be sure to get a big *** breaker bar to get the crank pulley bolt off...
Torque wrench is required. And as for the pickup tube bolt, here's a hint. My friend had some light duty LOCKING needle nose pliers. I locked onto the threads of the bolt, held it up, and used an offset-head gear wrench. Worked like a charm, just some food for thought. And check double check and triple check the oil pan bolts. They are very fragile and when you tighten one end the other end will probably loosen. I went barely hand tight on them, heard too many stories of people snapping them.-J
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Originally Posted by shudog
Oh yeah, be sure to get a big *** breaker bar to get the crank pulley bolt off...
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Originally Posted by mnypitZ
Dont leave any rags where they can get sucked into the engine. Yeah, I did that.Bent several valves and all. Thats ok though, I "needed" new heads anyway.
I'm so trying that one. My wife can't argue if i make a mistake 
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Ok so to recap on the key things I need to check the following...
1. Dot to Dot the cam
2. Pickup tube bolt
3. Burp Coolant system
Hope all goes well!! We'll see...
1. Dot to Dot the cam
2. Pickup tube bolt
3. Burp Coolant system
Hope all goes well!! We'll see...
Originally Posted by mnypitZ
Dont leave any rags where they can get sucked into the engine. Yeah, I did that.Bent several valves and all. Thats ok though, I "needed" new heads anyway.
Before you start get out the digital camera and take a photo of the engine BEFORE the tear down begins. This helps in putting all the hoses, cables and wiring harness back exactly as it came off. The photo helps more when removing the heads which requires removal of a lot more engine parts, but it only takes a minute to snap the picture so you have it saved if you need to refer back to it during reassembly.
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The biggest things it sounds like I'm concerned about are the pick up tube, valve springs change and dotting the cam. I'm not exactly sure what I need to do with the pick up tube, ls1how to doesn't clairfy 100% to me. Those small things are what are scaring me about the install...
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Slide the floor jack handle over the breaker bar for added leverage.
DOT to DOT is no problem. Cam DOT at 6 o'clock and crank DOT at 12 o'clock. You don't have to fool with the pickup tube unless you're removing the oil pump to upgrade the timing set or the pump itself. If not, don't worry about that.
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