I dug up some of the Torque Specs for the Mains, Heads..etc..for my Build.

What is up with this degree **** after the first Torque Stage..

I know that you are goin to have Bolt stretch when you Torque them in, that is why you check them after a while, expecially some of the Head bolts, but what happened to the old way..first stage this, second stage this, and you were done..

Is there a way to take this degree **** and figure out what Torque it would be..

Example: Main Caps. calls for 15 ft/lbs, then 80* for the inners, 53* for the outers..
How about 15ft/lbs, then 70ft/lbs for the inners, 60ft/lbs for the outers.
The Heads I was going to go to 10ft/lbs, second stage 35ft/lbs, 65ft/lbs final then check them.
I am an Iron Block Engine..so I figure I would be able to get away with that cause there is alot less flex.
I did my LT1 the same way and didn't have any problems..good ole Iron Engines..alot easier to work with.

 

the extra degrees of turn help the bolt strech. Its so you dont have to go back and recheck the bolts. I dont know if it matters that it is an iron block. If they are stock style bolts I would just follow the factory specs. Maybe someone else with more experience can chime in and help you out

 

Better yet use ARP fasteners and you won't have to deal with the TTY aspect.

 

I've never had a problem using the regular GM Bolts, I am just goin to be NA, all Motor, so that is why I am goin that way. I am re-using the Main Bolts..they only have 12K on them, I know that they are already stretched, so as far as I am concerned, goin to what I had up there will work. I did that with my LT1 that I re-built, and never had a problem out of them.

The Head Bolts are GMPP Bolts, these are it here:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

If I had to, I could go to these..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

 

ARP 12-pt studs

ARP 6-pt studs

ARP 6-pt bolts

GM TTY bolts




This is the ranking in order from most badass to least badass. You should definately upgrade to ARP.

 

Looks like I'll get them ARP ones...anyone need new GM Head Bolts, I have both sides..

 

haha, im in the middle of a H/C swap myself, just installed the cam today. I didn't skimp on anything, and I went ahead and got 'dem ARP 12-pt studs so I didn't have to BS around with angles and whatnot.

 

I am goin to go with the ones that are in my Link.

 

Although the ARP bolts initially cost more they can be used multiple times, whereas if you reuse the OEM bolts there is always the risk of failure.