new timing chain?
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: St. Peters
new timing chain? I have a 99z and I'm doing a cam install, should I replace stock timing chain w/ aftermaket? which one? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Los Angeles
Re: new timing chain? You don't have to, but you might as well while you're in there just to be safe.
Here's the double row timing chain:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...art&catid=2267
Or you can get the JWIS chain from thunder racing, its a single and is built nicer than the stock one. Doesn't require oil pump shims or potential underdrive pulley interference like the double chain.
Here's the double row timing chain:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...art&catid=2267
Or you can get the JWIS chain from thunder racing, its a single and is built nicer than the stock one. Doesn't require oil pump shims or potential underdrive pulley interference like the double chain.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Orlando
Re: new timing chain? If you can't get it from Thunder, I got my JWIS chain from katech. Part number G68VC-60 and it was ~ 110. shipped.
<small>[ January 30, 2003, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Jabroni ]</small>
<small>[ January 30, 2003, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Jabroni ]</small>
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Lockport,IL
Re: new timing chain? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Scorch:
<strong> got a link to the rollmaster single billet from sdpc? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">just look to the right there one of are sponsors i paid $75 bucks they run it in there 650hp shop car.
<strong> got a link to the rollmaster single billet from sdpc? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">just look to the right there one of are sponsors i paid $75 bucks they run it in there 650hp shop car.
Re: new timing chain? I just installed the Rollmaster hardened double roller. I did have one small problem. I had to run a .250 diameter drill through the cam pin hole. The hole in the Rollmaster was .004 smaller than in the factory and the pin would not go in. Other than that it fits and works great. The spacers are not a problem. I did use a small dab of high temperature sealant on the drivers side spacer.
I advanced my 218/218 Comp cam 6 degrees. It pulls all the way to 6000 rpm now and makes more bottom end torque. I'm anxious to get it to the track and see if my 60' and times have improved.
Be sure you understand how to advance or retard or you will be in for trouble.
I advanced my 218/218 Comp cam 6 degrees. It pulls all the way to 6000 rpm now and makes more bottom end torque. I'm anxious to get it to the track and see if my 60' and times have improved.
Be sure you understand how to advance or retard or you will be in for trouble.
Re: new timing chain? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BigTex:
<strong> Larry, doesn't the Comp 212/218 already have 4 degrees ground in? Did you advance it 6 more, or 2 more for 6 degrees total? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My 218/218 cam has zero advance ground in. My cam card says 114 intake centerline with a 114 LSA.
I actually lost 60' with this cam installed straight up. My 60' went up from 1.58 to 1.65 range. My mph and et did improve slightly but should do even better with my 60' back. I have a 3600 stall and which was too tight with this cam and zero advance.
<strong> Larry, doesn't the Comp 212/218 already have 4 degrees ground in? Did you advance it 6 more, or 2 more for 6 degrees total? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My 218/218 cam has zero advance ground in. My cam card says 114 intake centerline with a 114 LSA.
I actually lost 60' with this cam installed straight up. My 60' went up from 1.58 to 1.65 range. My mph and et did improve slightly but should do even better with my 60' back. I have a 3600 stall and which was too tight with this cam and zero advance.
Re: new timing chain? Interesting - The comp site lists the 212/218 as having 2 degrees ground in. Well, it says has a 112 ICL with a 114 LSA.
http://www.compcams.com/information/...mber=54-412-11
http://www.compcams.com/information/...mber=54-412-11
Re: new timing chain? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Wicked ls 1:
<strong> rollmaster billet single fron SDPC much better than stock and no fit or shimming problems. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is this the part number? SDCS1140
<strong> rollmaster billet single fron SDPC much better than stock and no fit or shimming problems. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is this the part number? SDCS1140
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: SW Florida
Re: new timing chain? Just for your info: The TR220 cams have 4 degrees advance ground in.
If you are changing cams, at least install a new chain.
I used the Rollmaster [single] timing set, but it's not adjustable. I installed the cam dot-to-dot.
If you are changing cams, at least install a new chain.
I used the Rollmaster [single] timing set, but it's not adjustable. I installed the cam dot-to-dot.
Re: new timing chain? I run the Katech replacement chain.Much more stout than the stocker.
Here is my reasoning
ouble row is stronger but adds the chance of oil leaks around the oil pump(added spacers)and an ASP pulley might contact the pump.And since I run 918's there is not much stress on the chain compared to dual spring setups.
On the Cam,I witnessed a board member do the same thing.Put the cam from 4 degree's advanced to 6 degree's advanced and he said he felt a big difference.But we went to the dyno and he gained 20hp down low up to 5000rpm then dived at 5500,but lost 35hp off his peak 6200
His is something like a 221/221 on 112 .580 lift I think,custom grind.
Here is my reasoning
ouble row is stronger but adds the chance of oil leaks around the oil pump(added spacers)and an ASP pulley might contact the pump.And since I run 918's there is not much stress on the chain compared to dual spring setups.On the Cam,I witnessed a board member do the same thing.Put the cam from 4 degree's advanced to 6 degree's advanced and he said he felt a big difference.But we went to the dyno and he gained 20hp down low up to 5000rpm then dived at 5500,but lost 35hp off his peak 6200
His is something like a 221/221 on 112 .580 lift I think,custom grind.