98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I used the antiseize instead of the thread locker on the all the head bolts and cam retainer bolts. Should I take them all out and use thread locker? Am I an idot or this alright?

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

i definitely wouldnt use antisieze on something that calls for threadlocker

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

Well antiseize makes it easy to take bolts out and thread locker makes it harder, Its your call lol

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

The only thing I use antiseize on are the sparkplugs and header bolts. The head bolts should be okay, but I'd redo the cam retainer bolts with loctite.

mypoorLS1

iTrader: (4)

UMMMM. Not alright. This will cause problems. Buy new headbolts if you bought OEM bolts. Maybe buy new cam bolts too. Locktite has little pieces that look like broken glass to help keep the bolt from turning. This also works when you are tightening a bolt. Tread lube helps it slide easier. When a torque spec is calculated with locker and lube is used, an overtorque is applied and the bolt is overstretched. I have to watch this proven in a demonstration every year by fastenal at my work. May not make sense to some but it is true.

Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

Ditto, redo the cam retainer bolts. The head bolts should be OK, where they OEM ones? or ARP's?

mypoorLS1

iTrader: (4)

OEM head bolts should never be reused. They are designed to only be used once. Doesn't ARP recomend lube?

bsf

iTrader: (7)

ARP recommends moly lube, or oil (30W?) as a substitute. ARP also specifies different torque for moly and oil. I used moly on all my ARP fasteners.

ETA
I do believe that blue Loctite mimics the lubricity of moly lube when uncured, though.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Well on the instructions for the arp bolts it says to use only the moly lube on the threads or the oil and under the head bolt and on both sides of the washer. It also says you can substitute thread locker on the threads instead of the oil or moly. I think it will be alright. It specifically says on the antiseize great for head bolts, spark plugs, exhaust manifold bolts. I am going to redo the cam retainer bolts and the cam bolts.

markp03

iTrader: (4)

So how did this happen? you get done with the job, dust your hands off and look down at the tube of antiseize, you pause, OH ****!

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

Kinda like Jim on American Pie II. O ****, I used the ultra destruction glue on my dick!!

408z28

iTrader: (44)

WOW!!! "It said use moly LUBE..." Why would you EVER use threadlocker on a head bolt??? Thats a good way to ruin a block/heads/gaskets. With the threadlocker your torque specs are useless, and you run the risk of blowing head gaskets(impropper torque). Plus the risk of pulling the threads out of the block. Not a good idea! Stay with the antiseeze!

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Im just going to leave the heads the way they are and remove the cam retainer bolts and cam bolts and use thread locker on those. Also, I didn't even think to look at the gaskets to see if they blocked any coolant passages because they say front on them, but then I seen a thread that said that some of the gaskets are designed for passenger and driver side. I got the GM MLS gaskets from speed inc, these ones dont have specified sides do they?

408z28

iTrader: (44)

No, as long as you got the "Front" facing forward your good.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

You may want to check a Threadlocker spec sheet. I remember reading a spec sheet or product description and there being mention of threadlocker acting as a anti-galling agent or like moly when liquid.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

On arp's website it said you can substitute thread locker or a similar substance for the moly or motor oil.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Dont forget to clean out the antiseize with a thread chaser or tap, then wash it out with some brake cleaner or something that way the loctite can bond onto the metal.

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

HAHAHA... umm ya i probably would

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Im lettin ride, its torqued down right so it will be fine.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I had cam bolts that were torqued down fine, but I used some old loctite that must have already catalyzed in the tube. Within a few thou miles, the cam bolts had worked themselves loose and the timing gear was wobbling all around. I was lucky it didnt come off completely.