raap5l

im doing ported TB and LS6 intake before the CAM, however i want to leave the option open to upgrade heads later. so need a cam that will be good on stock engine, and benifit from heads later. that cam you mentioned with .643.. thats huge... wont that need flycut pistons?
also when you say LSK/XE-R lobes, do you mean either or? or different lobes LSK intake and XER exhaust.
i know XER are extreme energy roller.. what are LSK and XFI

PREDATOR-Z

Yes LSK itake and XE-R exhaust, no no flycut and the extra lift (as well as LSK ramp rate) will cram more air in and add power. mind you if you ever get heads that flow real well at .650 lift that cam will act like a monster, but otherwise the extra lift acts like a crutch and does let extra charge in.

raap5l

forgive me, however i still dont know what the LSK and XFI lobes are.. i can only find info on XER series for LS1

PREDATOR-Z

The XFI are in the master lobe catalog
These are the LSK lobes:

Comp Cams LSK lobes
Lobe#, Dur. @ .006", .050", .200", & Lift @ 1.7

2124 265 215 142 .629
2125 269 219 145 .632
2126 273 223 149 .636
2127 277 227 153 .639
2128 281 231 156 .643"
2129 285 235 160 .646"
2130 289 239 164 .649"
2131 293 243 168 .653"
2132 297 247 171 .656"
2133 301 251 175 .660"
2134 305 255 179 .663"
2135 309 259 183 .663"
2136 313 263 186 .663

raap5l

what about a few texas speed items...im looking at there cam packages with double PRC springs retainers and pushrods..

the tourqer v2 and v3 sound good

tourqer v2
232/234 .595/.598 112 LSA XER lobes

tourqer v3
231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA

keeping in mind i have stock heads, LS6 intake and ported TB. also have large intake and 1 3/4 headers...so it can breathe.
will i have PTV issues with the .643? how can i calculate this without pulling the heads and claying?

PREDATOR-Z

OK I will say it one more time

LIFT at .050 has NOTHING to do with PTV

Max lift occurs BDC and not TDC where contact is an issue

raap5l

ok,what you think of those?

Ryne @ CMS

iTrader: (10)

i would really listen to predator Z for cam advice......... but if you really want to go with a texas speed cam, the torquer 3 is what i suggest

raap5l

i am listening to him, hence i asked for his opinion. only reason i mentioned the texas speed ones is for the cam packages which are very well priced and i can import from the states. if there is a cam by them which would suit my application it would just make it easy thats all.

PS. predator Z, i was reading up on a thread of yours regarding reverse split cams... would they take place in this combo, considering standard heads etc?? i noticed one of your custom grinds you mentioned was a reverse split. would reverse splits still rev hard to 6800? or are they more for low end torque.

oz304

i'd rather reverse split any day on a na engine.
air speed is everything,not too big on them primarys,unless you plan some gas.

raap5l

is this a typical torque and power curve of a reverse split cam? found this graph of a thunder racing 230/224 .575/.563 111 LSA.. torque looks impressive from 2200 up..

oz304

noses off @6400prm which is about the limit of the factory intake anyways.
drivability should be every bit as good as a stocker,easy on the valve train
overlap in the +5 range with the 111lc which makes it just outside the emmision legal range but heck worse come to worse retard the ve by 3 degrees + it will go to -1 ovelap range which is within the scope of passing epa tests too.(no need to revert to stock cam if epa got onto you).
if i had the manual i would dial that one in at 2 deg advance on a brand new timing chain to counter timing chain lag so its set around 109 then as time goes by self adjust to 110+111,(or,the reason i prefer to utilise pre used(but not too old) timing chains,so its dialled in correctly from the word go assuming there was no option to run any tensioners)
i would err abit with large primary pipes but i would certainly give the current setup the benefit of the doubt ,worse come to worse chop off the first 6inch
length from the flange plate and fit 1.1/16 primary pipes inside
the existing pipes from where you cut out .that will increase exhaust air speed velocity + really perk up torque.
your combination ought to be compromised within the limiting characteristics
of the factory intake manifold and matching the stick to within its intended range,it would be a shame if low speed torque was hindered in an attempt to
fool the engine into thinking its running a victor jnr intake manifold instead!
time is your best friend ,observe the dyno graphs + the limits of the factory
intake then plot a stragety for harmony!

raap5l

my car is light and its geared up, so it revs hard as is...gets to 3k before you know it.. low end torque would be great, but i need to to rev hard to 6800. thats why i was looking in the ranges of the V.2/ V.3.. seen some good reveiws on them and good numbers approx 400rwhp with ported TB and LS6 intake, which i will have both before cam. im not in a absolute rush, hence im doing all the research i can. i do however want to take advantage of the US to AU exchange rate and get some cheap parts

ls1 1990 VN

A lot of the bigger cams work on rev's, mine was a TSP 231-237
I have a NZ Kelford cam 222-224 with a fast ramp rate being installed on new engine rebuild, this time i want more torque, far better for street use.

oz304

its around 89cents to the us dollar,unfortunately the reserve bank rewards hard working aussies who pitch in to reduce the deficits unjust increases in interest rates.
sad but true,ever wondered why aussie manufactures ask way way more for basically a similar item,its because the government doesn't have the sak to implement much needed laws to enforce interest rate hike restrictions in order to release some burdeon on aussie manufacturing companys,unfortunately because of these idiodic trends the customer simply cannot afford to pay 50%+ more to justify the reserve banks dirty +greedy ethics,id rather buy from a reputable us company ,thus promoting a slight reduction in the aussie dollars value it will force the banks to reduce interest rates too.
in the end look do buisness with a company that can cater for practical means of shipping (ie usps has a flat rate 20lb max service via airmail + only costs $37us
bucks beware of ups price hike schemes, unless the charge is comparable to what otherwise usps quotes both are basically the same service + uses the same cargos.fed ex is considerably cheaper using international economy air service which has tracking and insurance in the deal too.(about 3-4days)
if buisnesses appreciate dealing with you then i'm certain they wont have an issue compromising a feasable means to get the part sent to you,even if they add a reasonable handling charge to the equation.
i had hundreds of orders sent by usps never any problem whatsoever
conversely i had issues with more expensive carriers in the past.
as far as i'm concerned usps are the most consistent + reliable carrier to oz from the usa bar none(period)
best bang for buck carrier,damm fast with usps international ems express too which includes insurance and tracking service)
(not the usps global express which slugs you double for the same thing)

raap5l

thanks oz304 for your in depth info!.. what you reakon about the v2's and v3's... they look pretty popular, and sound like what im after

oz304

both are proven performers,both have +overlap so stealth not on the agenda both will have definate chop then again if stealth aint an issue but still need adequate torque to push you through the rpms check out t-rex v.2 (add approx17.5%)to the figures convert to flywheel bhp give and take the variables.
assuming tests are fair dinkum (ie no nitrous used) otherwise would have stated so surely.or for a more stealth solution ask if pretator z can do you a special grind,he seems to understand the fundamentals of standard ls1 cyl head tendencys only too well.
in the end them that appreciate your buisness foremost
will look after you the most too.

by the way a relo decided to shove a gen111 in a vs commodore
(against my advice)+ unless he performed all the magic himself
and is certain a full conversion kit was readily available,his car is stuck with a starter motor issue,+you doing your own conversion
maybe can reccommend a solution other than castle rod shop
whom i was told by his mechanic that theres a 2 month wait
on these limited special starter motors.
any idea which way to go?

raap5l

i used the CRS bits with a few issues mind you.. they had issues with supply when i was doing my car, and had to wait a few weeks for the starter.. whats worse is all the bolts they sent me were wrong so i had to mod a few things aswell

there is virtually no room down there and there custom stater setup is about the only thing that would fit. if he custom fits a different starter setup wouldnt be cheap, plus he would also need custom headers to clear it..
sucks but id say just keep hastling them... they are useless in calling you back

oz304

errr,that ms4 seem a nice sucka for the m6!

raap5l

yea i dunno ive heard mixed reports about the MS cams. where as cams like the V2 have been popular in the states and aus