1fast01

iTrader: (4)

Its almost likely a problem/crack with the heads. I've gone through that same sh*t with a different car; tried everything you did. New radiator, hoses, water pump, cap, thermo, etc. As much as didn't want to pull the heads, problem was fixed after that.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

Im sure your car has been tuned? i swaped an LS1 into my 69 camaro and it never once went over 200. I then did a cam swap and ever since i had problems with it goin 230-240. bled air forever and usually it wont go over 235. I have yet to get a tune but my biggest problem are with the fans. I had an SLP fan switch and when i hooked it up and run them manually......there went all my temp problems. The fans would come on at 230 and run on low. it would cool down to 220 driving down the highway. u might buy a fan switch (solved my problems).

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I have the ETP 225 heads and my car runs at 180*. I think you have a head gasket on backwards and the passage is getting blocked. Have you tried another temp sensor? Maybe yours went bad.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

When your fans come on stick a shop towel on the front of the radiator. (If you can get to it ) if the towel falls off the fans are blowing the wrong way. If it sticks to it they are right. We chased this problem with a buddies mustang for a long time and its very frustrating. good luck Charles

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

Man I know you gotta be pissed reading responses.

You people gotta learn to read so you don't ask a question that has been answered 5 times or more already.

For what it's worth, here's my 2 cents. I'd rule out the water pump, radiator, radiator cap, thermostat and the block. I am courious why it comes up to temp so fast. As the coolant system loops through the heater core during warm up this SHOULD indicate that the problem is not in the hoses or radiator. The things that come to mind are:

1 Are you sure you don't have a collapsed hose somewhere. I've seen radiator hoses look fine on the outside and have collapsed internally to block flow. A hose could have been damaged during the initial head/cam swap.

2 You said the crossover pipe is flowing but I figure I'd mention this. I beleive the crossover pipe is held down by a banjo type bolt. If the mechanic had accidently installed a normal bolt the flow could be blocked at one end.

3 Although installing the gaskets backwards could cause misalignment it's highly unlikely it would have happened twice, but anything is possible.

4 THE FANS HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS. If they did the car would run at normal temps on the highway. It dosen't.

5 I hate to say it but all problems started when the heads were installed. Do you have the stock heads still. It's a PITA but maybe you could try putting them back on.

6 Even if the tune was way off the car would still runner cooler at idle. Big cam on stock tunes tend to run rich at idle which would cool the combustion chamber.

Good Luck

Re'

MJD

iTrader: (1)

Are you positive the right head gaskets were used? There were two different versions made for the LS1 depending on the year and the differences between the two had to do with the cooling system if I remember right. One was made for 97-01 and the other was for 02-04. I happend upon this info in scoggin-dickey catalog since I'm getting ready to do heads myself.

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

I can assure you that the head gaskets were properly installed on that engine. It is very hard to put them on backwards unless you are just not paying attention whatsoever. When Derrick contacted us about his issue that was the first thing I did. I went back to the person who did the assembly (It was only a matter of about a week after the engine was complete that Derrick had it up and running so I knew it was fresh in his head.) and I asked if he remembered putting the head gaskets on and if he had any issues and he laughed, said no, why would he it clearly says where the front is labeled on the gasket.

So we can cancel that out. Besides the fact that Derrick has had this issue on 2 occasions.

We Jet washed the block, it is very very unlikely that there is anything left in his block before it left here.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

Its not the temp sensor. The laptop AND my high temp warning light ALL say that I'm overheating. Additionally, we just installed a brand new temp sensor because the old one was damaged in shipping.

I might replace all of the hoses just to rule them out but it is looking like I am ultimately going to have to take the heads off this weekend. Can anyone help me out with hose part numbers and a new GM MLS gasket part number? The gasket has to be .054 thick.

By the way, if it was the head gasket wouldn't my car just keep overheating rather than stablizing at 217*?

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

There differences you are seeing in gaskets are the graphite (97-01) and the MLS (02-04). The MLS can be used on all year blocks, as long as 97-98 heads (perimiter bolt) are not used.

We used the GM MLS gaskets on Derricks engine.

WeberRacingEquipment

iTrader: (4)

Correct.

Derrick if you need a set of head gaskets, just let me know (vie email) and I can shoot you a set out.

-Leo

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

Check the O2 levels in the radiator, if there any then theres combustion getting in the coolant...somehow or another. The heads may have so much coreshift in just one that it is blocked completely. While the heads are off take your hose(air or water) and run it through one side of the heads in the water jacket and see if it flows good through the other side, use common sence when doing this on trying to decide if theres enough flow or not. I bet one head does alot better than the other and thats your problem....if the gaskets are right and theres no 02 levels in the coolant.

delsold

iTrader: (7)

did the headgaskets go on the wrong way? doesnt 1 way allow all the coolant passages to be lined up rright, but the other way cause 1 to be blocked off?

delsold

iTrader: (7)

my bad for not reading this whole post...but ya thats exactly what i was thinking!

Wonderbread

iTrader: (51)

See post 47

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

Something like this isn't worth the damn aggravation. I'd take it back over to Weber Racing and get them to fix it. Whatever it is, whatever it takes. Just fix the bitch and call me. Cause if your like me your definately tired of messing with it right now and it really needs to go back to whoever put it together berfore you get mad and pop the T-Tops out and use it to burn trash in. And thats the best advice I could give you or anybody else that tried all they know

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

LOL at post #55. Weber didn't do anything wrong, dude! My stock motor was overheating too, way before I had ever even heard of Weber! Also, I haven't done "everything" yet. I still haven't taken the heads off. I really didn't want to have to do that but I don't have a choice anymore...that is if I ever want to get to the bottom of this. My only other option is to just live with 215 to 220 degree temps on a mostly drag car that's going to detonate like crazy. Quench is 40 thou and compression is 11.5:1 so I will almost certainly have detonation at 215*+. Bottom line is, this is going to be a knuckle busting weekend for me.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

just throwing this out there since u havent replied to it after people said it. but just wondering if had checked ur fans to make sure they are going in the right direction?

i hope u get this figured out but from what u said im guessing a problem with the heads! good luck!

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

taking off the heads sucks (i did my head swap in the parking lot of my apartments), but it seems like youve tried everything else.

good luck bud!

Kamin

i hate to say it but all of this stems from your head change.

if youve troubleshooted everything else out, try different heads...

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Ok Dont Hear Me.. My Car Got Just As Hot As Yours...i Pulled The T-stat And Now It Stays Cooler

Btw: 220 Is Considered Normal Ls1 Opperating Temp (yea Bad For Performance But 220 Is Not Overheating)

I Think You Fixed Your Problem Already And Now You Just Expect 160 Deg Temps When 200-220 Is Kinda Normal.. Bull Your T-stat And Id Bet Youll See A Good 15-20 Deg Drop In Temps (i Did)

Also I Run A Ewp