PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

I just re-read this entire thread and this post jogged my memory. There was ONE thing my mechanic did change on my cooling system when he did the head swap back in March...
I remember him asking me what I was going to do about my power steering cooler. I really didn't understand why he was asking about that because I've been without power steering for years. For some reason unknown to me even to this day, he said he would have to replace it with a different kind of pipe. I was pretty sure he meant that metal pipe that is part of the lower radiator hose...you know, the one that runs from the radiator to the top of the water pump? So I told him "go for it." Maybe I'm wrong and that is not what he replaced. Quite honestly, I have never really known what that metal pipe is even for. I've installed cams, converters, transmissions, and taken apart my engine but I've never really dived deep into the cooling system until now.

It could be nothing but your reply has me wondering if something is fubar with that metal pipe. I'll take a photo tomorrow during day light and post it. I'm sure ya'll know what I'm talking about.

oneBADDz

iTrader: (26)

If I remember correctly, it is directional. I am thinking that when I did my cam install I noticed an arrow on it. If it's still in there and facing the wrong direction(if it is indeed irectional) you could have found your restriction.
The fact that at idle it cools back down does somewhat point at a restriction

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

So it cools down at idle every time?

Do you still have the black plastic air dam/ air deflector below your radiator? It forces air up to your radiator.

If that is not there or broken badly then that would cause your cooling problems while driving. Your fans don't work when your going down the road over 25-30MPH.

Local guy had the same cooling issue, his black plastic piece was off the car, put it back on problems went away.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

Here are some photos.

I want to make sure I understand which direction the cooling system flows so please tell me if my finger is pointing in the right direction on the first two photos.

Picture 1 (I assume this 3 piece set is all part of the Upper Hose? Or do they each have their own name? By 3 pieces I mean the rubber hose that comes out of the water pump, the metal hose and lastly the rubber hose that connects to the radiator)


Picture 2 (Lower Hose)


Picture 3 (Air Dam side view)


Picture 4 (Air Dam back view)


Picture 5 (Over flow and return hose)

TA2SLOW346

iTrader: (3)

Make a spacer for your airdamn to lower it 2-3 inches so it grabs more air. Also try taking off that ram air thing bet its blocking alot of air going into your radiator.

TA2SLOW346

iTrader: (3)

Also i see a big gap between your radiator and your core support. Air will bypass your radiator and flow the easier route out. Just by putting some foam in place to fill those voids i've seen 7-10 degree temp drops.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

I thought about doing that but the thing is, I've had the ram air in place for years and I've always ran cool. Only thing I ever changed about it was I shifted it back another inch so it sits a little higher off the ground. It was hitting my trailer when I would load my car.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure I follow. Are you talking about this gap:


That is the stock gap. Check my lower air box support, it is hooked up just as it should be. Only thing different is I don't have A/C anymore but again, I haven't had that in years.

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

did you change the thermostat yet, radiator clogged?

someone mentioned about timing being to retarded. i've seen a few cars overheat pretty bad while driving but once i park it in my driveway it cooled down. just a thought maybe you're timing is too retarded. it's an odd problem thats for sure.

LS1curious

Hey there guy. Why don;t you take off the electric waterpump and slap on a belt driven one. Easy testing.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

shouldent the outlet and inlet for the heater be looped and not pluged?

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

I've already tried a belt driven water pump...not since the new radiator but nonetheless.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

shouldn't it be looped regardless?

TA2SLOW346

iTrader: (3)

Yes thats what im talking about. Once you pull out your AC you also take out some plastic shielding that helps block the air from going out those holes and making the air flow thru the radiator. Stuff it with some thick foam.
Also do you have the transmission cooler lines still running thru the stock radiator? I would just run a cooler and not run it thru my radiator at all. With your 5000 rpm stall and 4.10 gears how cool do you think its suppose to run on the highway?
I bet with you moving your ram air set up back some it closed off even more area for the air to go.

Derrick try doing the things i told you and get back with me. If your still having problems i would try blocking the water pump bypass off and drilling a few holes in the stock stat. FYI my old TA would run about 140 degrees going down the road at night, and the fans hardly ever came on.

oneBADDz

iTrader: (26)

+1

+1000, but surely you have an external cooler already

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

Sometimes when the EWP starts to go bad, they loose a significant amount of flow.
I would slap on a stock pump and see how it does..

SuperC1

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure, but I would think that the FTRA system could restrict a lot of airflow. Do they really make that much diffrence? I have never had one but I have heard some people say that they can cause overheating. Try running it without it. It may not be the cure, but it probably would help.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Hey man did you try changing the radiator cap and making sure the fans are blowing the right direction yet?

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

I read this entire post, and it sound to me like a flow problem. You noted that when driving, the temps would rise a few degrees, and when idling the temps would drop a few degrees.
This is a classic sign of a flow problem....usually in the radiator, but since you have eliminated that, it is somewhere else.

My bet is that the heads are restricting the coolant flow. This problem started with the installation of the heads and is continuing with the heads still in place.

The other item I didn't see mention of was the heater core. There is a possibility that it is clogged and restricting hte collant flow, although I doubt it since your stock radiator was fine.

It's the heads...it has to be the heads...you've eliminated the other possibilities.

PewterZ28

iTrader: (1)

Shawn,

Thanks for trying to help. I will do as you suggest and find some kind of foam to place in front of the radiator as to eliminate some of the gap. I will also remove the ram air kit just to eliminate that possibility also. However, I am not very optimistic this will cure my problems. You have to remember, my car ALWAYS ran in the 180's despite my 4900 stall, 4.10 gears, no overdrive and ram air kit installed. So there is no reason why it should suddenly start running 40 degrees hotter just because I installed new heads. I'm not quite sure how to go about the foam install. Seems like I will need to remove the radiator in order to get a big piece of foam in there.

I really think you are right, along with a few others who have posted this same opinion. I just want to eliminate ALL other possibilities first.