STILL OVERHEATING! I FN give up!
09-24-2007, 08:54 AM
#101
BTW, my stall is no longer 4900. More like 4500 now. Not like that makes a big difference.
Also, I have no A/C and no heater core. I haven't for a long time. No power steering cooler either. Just a metal pipe (see photo on previous page). Finally, I have a separate cooler for my transmission. It is mounted in my front bumper, has been for a long time now. It keeps tranny temps below 180.
Can someone tell me if my fingers were pointing in the right direction? I want to make sure I understand the flow direction.
Also, I have no A/C and no heater core. I haven't for a long time. No power steering cooler either. Just a metal pipe (see photo on previous page). Finally, I have a separate cooler for my transmission. It is mounted in my front bumper, has been for a long time now. It keeps tranny temps below 180.
Can someone tell me if my fingers were pointing in the right direction? I want to make sure I understand the flow direction.
09-24-2007, 10:38 AM
#102
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I have recently been fighting a battle with a similar issue with a corvette.
Edelbrock waterpump, aluminum radiator etc etc etc.
Edelbrock pump had trouble not sure what but it cavitated like crazy. Put a stock Iron pump on dropped 20 degrees, Changed out electric fans 2 12' for a single 16inch extreme spal dropped 20,
Those were the 2 big killers. same symptons. I really suggest putting a stock pump on it and seeing what happens.
Edelbrock waterpump, aluminum radiator etc etc etc.
Edelbrock pump had trouble not sure what but it cavitated like crazy. Put a stock Iron pump on dropped 20 degrees, Changed out electric fans 2 12' for a single 16inch extreme spal dropped 20,
Those were the 2 big killers. same symptons. I really suggest putting a stock pump on it and seeing what happens.
09-24-2007, 10:50 AM
#103
If it cools while idling, I would rule out a combustion leak into the cooling system.
Sounds to me like a flow problem also. The EWP may not be flowing enough when the engines at higher RPM.
I've used clear PVC tubing in place of radiator hose to watch the flow. Might be something you wanna try. The big box hardware stores carry pretty good size clear tubing. Good luck.
Sounds to me like a flow problem also. The EWP may not be flowing enough when the engines at higher RPM.
I've used clear PVC tubing in place of radiator hose to watch the flow. Might be something you wanna try. The big box hardware stores carry pretty good size clear tubing. Good luck.
09-24-2007, 01:18 PM
#104
Over the weekend I bought two new GM MLS gaskets because I knew I was going to take the heads off. I bought the same part number ones that are on my engine right now. It is part #12589226 for 3.9" bore LS motors. I just took one out of its package and laid it on a LS1 head and saw something that raised my eyebrows. For some reason, this gasket completely blocks two coolant passages on the head. I am not sure why it is designed this way. I am wondering if that could be the problem. This would NOT explain why my motor was overheating in the Spring because my mechanic told me the Cometics are not designed this way. Maybe in the Spring my only problem was a clogged radiator but this time around I had both a clogged radiator AND a dumb gasket. Fixing the radiator helped but I still have the dumb gaskets.
Before you say that I found the problem keep in mind that the LS6 head's coolant passages are the same as an LS1's and these same gaskets are used with no problem on all the Corvette LS6's. So there must be a reason they are designed this way and they must know they will not restrict coolant flow.
Before you say that I found the problem keep in mind that the LS6 head's coolant passages are the same as an LS1's and these same gaskets are used with no problem on all the Corvette LS6's. So there must be a reason they are designed this way and they must know they will not restrict coolant flow.
09-24-2007, 01:51 PM
#106
Pewter, You stated that you don't have a heater core, not sure if it will make any differece or not, but are you looping the heater hose lines out of the pump? or just blocking them off ? I remember reading that they need to be looped ?
Just a thought. I sure hope you figure this out soon, I have been following your thread.
Just a thought. I sure hope you figure this out soon, I have been following your thread.
09-24-2007, 02:09 PM
#107
See pic below. They are blocked, not looped...HOWEVER, once again it has been this way for quite a while. I have a sensor in one and a plug in the other. The sensor is wired to a warning light...if it gets above 235 the light comes on.
09-24-2007, 02:34 PM
#109
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You have the correct flow direction pointed out in the pics....and also, that steel looking pipe thingy on the upper radiator hose is your "factory" power steering cooler. Not sure how well those really work, though.
I don't see a power steering pump, though, so why would you need a power steering cooler?
JC
I don't see a power steering pump, though, so why would you need a power steering cooler?
JC
09-24-2007, 07:27 PM
#111
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they block those passage to direct flow through the head and block. If the flow is going in a circle the engine will not cool at all.
Originally Posted by PewterZ28
Over the weekend I bought two new GM MLS gaskets because I knew I was going to take the heads off. I bought the same part number ones that are on my engine right now. It is part #12589226 for 3.9" bore LS motors. I just took one out of its package and laid it on a LS1 head and saw something that raised my eyebrows. For some reason, this gasket completely blocks two coolant passages on the head. I am not sure why it is designed this way. I am wondering if that could be the problem. This would NOT explain why my motor was overheating in the Spring because my mechanic told me the Cometics are not designed this way. Maybe in the Spring my only problem was a clogged radiator but this time around I had both a clogged radiator AND a dumb gasket. Fixing the radiator helped but I still have the dumb gaskets.
Before you say that I found the problem keep in mind that the LS6 head's coolant passages are the same as an LS1's and these same gaskets are used with no problem on all the Corvette LS6's. So there must be a reason they are designed this way and they must know they will not restrict coolant flow.
Before you say that I found the problem keep in mind that the LS6 head's coolant passages are the same as an LS1's and these same gaskets are used with no problem on all the Corvette LS6's. So there must be a reason they are designed this way and they must know they will not restrict coolant flow.
09-28-2007, 07:56 AM
#114
Heads are probably coming off today. Really don't want to take them off but it looks like we have to.
Anyone familiar with HPTuners care to give me your opinion on the way my fans are tuned?
Fan 1 on temp: 175
Fan 1 off temp: 170
Fan 1 enable speed: 0
Fan 1 disable speed: 0
Fan 2 on temp: 183
Fan 2 off temp: 179
Should speed be 0 for both? Seems like my fans would run non stop even while I'm on the highway.
Anyone familiar with HPTuners care to give me your opinion on the way my fans are tuned?
Fan 1 on temp: 175
Fan 1 off temp: 170
Fan 1 enable speed: 0
Fan 1 disable speed: 0
Fan 2 on temp: 183
Fan 2 off temp: 179
Should speed be 0 for both? Seems like my fans would run non stop even while I'm on the highway.
10-02-2007, 09:06 AM
#118
The fans coming on or off on the highway made no difference. We went for a drive on Saturday and tried driving 55 with the fans off and it was still overheating badly. Matter of fact it is worse again. On Friday I was at least able to drive 25 miles to the shop with temps only reaching 220. However, on Saturday the temps kept climbing past 220, about 2 degrees every 30 seconds. We had to pull over when temps quickly got to 235! I left the key in the ON position to keep the electric water pump running and we also left the fans running until temps fell back down to upper 180's. We were then able to drive the last mile to the shop. BTW, foam blocking the big gap did not help either. Also, the head gaskets were on the right way.
As far as I know the heads came off yesterday and they are being examined by a local machine shop. I'm waiting to hear if they were able to find anything. If they can not find anything then I think I'm going to quit.
As far as I know the heads came off yesterday and they are being examined by a local machine shop. I'm waiting to hear if they were able to find anything. If they can not find anything then I think I'm going to quit.
10-02-2007, 12:09 PM
#119
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I would take a garden hose and take both radiator hoses off the engine. Put the garden hose in one end (H2O intake) and use duct tape to seal it off. Open the pressure and see if there are any restrictions.
...repeat with the other side (h20 output).
Repeat with the raditor.....
...look there must be an explaination ...probably not rocket science, either....
HE HAS A BRAND NEW RADIATOR
...repeat with the other side (h20 output).
Repeat with the raditor.....
...look there must be an explaination ...probably not rocket science, either....
HE HAS A BRAND NEW RADIATOR
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 10-02-2007 at 01:28 PM. Reason: READ THE THREAD
10-02-2007, 02:55 PM
#120
Well I can't believe my luck but we took the heads off and sure enough many of the coolant passages do NOT line up with the head gasket. Matter of fact, some are completely blocked! And it is NOT the gasket. The gasket lines up perfectly with the block and we also had a set of Patriot heads that the gasket fit perfectly on. So it appears the heads were not lined up on the mill properly or however that works.
If I had any idea I was going to have this much trouble with these heads I wouldn't have taken them even if they were offered for free. It is hard to put a dollar figure on it but these heads have cost me so much money, time, frustration and almost an entire drag season. I bought these heads from Ed Curtis so I'm asking him to send me replacements. I'm not asking ETP. Who knows, maybe it would take them another 17 weeks.
I'll try to post pictures later tonight.
EDITED: Let's not jump the gun yet. Feel free to continue reading but please make sure you read post #133. I am still not convinced I have found the problem. All I know is that I have been through the entire cooling system and I have had four different parties involved and over a hundred opinions in this thread yet I am still no better off than I was back in March when my motor gave way. I have spent way over $10,000 in parts and labor on this project and all I am trying to do is find someone who can figure this out for me. I am at my wits end.
If I had any idea I was going to have this much trouble with these heads I wouldn't have taken them even if they were offered for free. It is hard to put a dollar figure on it but these heads have cost me so much money, time, frustration and almost an entire drag season. I bought these heads from Ed Curtis so I'm asking him to send me replacements. I'm not asking ETP. Who knows, maybe it would take them another 17 weeks.
I'll try to post pictures later tonight.
EDITED: Let's not jump the gun yet. Feel free to continue reading but please make sure you read post #133. I am still not convinced I have found the problem. All I know is that I have been through the entire cooling system and I have had four different parties involved and over a hundred opinions in this thread yet I am still no better off than I was back in March when my motor gave way. I have spent way over $10,000 in parts and labor on this project and all I am trying to do is find someone who can figure this out for me. I am at my wits end.
Last edited by PewterZ28; 10-03-2007 at 02:19 PM.