STILL OVERHEATING! I FN give up!
#81
Originally Posted by bwana
One other often overlooked case is the lwr rad hose sucking closed at moderate+ rpm because the spring in it is collapsed or missing...but again you said it was all the time..
I remember him asking me what I was going to do about my power steering cooler. I really didn't understand why he was asking about that because I've been without power steering for years. For some reason unknown to me even to this day, he said he would have to replace it with a different kind of pipe. I was pretty sure he meant that metal pipe that is part of the lower radiator hose...you know, the one that runs from the radiator to the top of the water pump? So I told him "go for it." Maybe I'm wrong and that is not what he replaced. Quite honestly, I have never really known what that metal pipe is even for. I've installed cams, converters, transmissions, and taken apart my engine but I've never really dived deep into the cooling system until now.
It could be nothing but your reply has me wondering if something is fubar with that metal pipe. I'll take a photo tomorrow during day light and post it. I'm sure ya'll know what I'm talking about.
#82
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Originally Posted by PewterZ28
I just re-read this entire thread and this post jogged my memory. There was ONE thing my mechanic did change on my cooling system when he did the head swap back in March...
I remember him asking me what I was going to do about my power steering cooler. I really didn't understand why he was asking about that because I've been without power steering for years. For some reason unknown to me even to this day, he said he would have to replace it with a different kind of pipe. I was pretty sure he meant that metal pipe that is part of the lower radiator hose...you know, the one that runs from the radiator to the top of the water pump? So I told him "go for it." Maybe I'm wrong and that is not what he replaced. Quite honestly, I have never really known what that metal pipe is even for. I've installed cams, converters, transmissions, and taken apart my engine but I've never really dived deep into the cooling system until now.
It could be nothing but your reply has me wondering if something is fubar with that metal pipe. I'll take a photo tomorrow during day light and post it. I'm sure ya'll know what I'm talking about.
I remember him asking me what I was going to do about my power steering cooler. I really didn't understand why he was asking about that because I've been without power steering for years. For some reason unknown to me even to this day, he said he would have to replace it with a different kind of pipe. I was pretty sure he meant that metal pipe that is part of the lower radiator hose...you know, the one that runs from the radiator to the top of the water pump? So I told him "go for it." Maybe I'm wrong and that is not what he replaced. Quite honestly, I have never really known what that metal pipe is even for. I've installed cams, converters, transmissions, and taken apart my engine but I've never really dived deep into the cooling system until now.
It could be nothing but your reply has me wondering if something is fubar with that metal pipe. I'll take a photo tomorrow during day light and post it. I'm sure ya'll know what I'm talking about.
The fact that at idle it cools back down does somewhat point at a restriction
#83
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So it cools down at idle every time?
Do you still have the black plastic air dam/ air deflector below your radiator? It forces air up to your radiator.
If that is not there or broken badly then that would cause your cooling problems while driving. Your fans don't work when your going down the road over 25-30MPH.
Local guy had the same cooling issue, his black plastic piece was off the car, put it back on problems went away.
Do you still have the black plastic air dam/ air deflector below your radiator? It forces air up to your radiator.
If that is not there or broken badly then that would cause your cooling problems while driving. Your fans don't work when your going down the road over 25-30MPH.
Local guy had the same cooling issue, his black plastic piece was off the car, put it back on problems went away.
#84
Here are some photos.
I want to make sure I understand which direction the cooling system flows so please tell me if my finger is pointing in the right direction on the first two photos.
Picture 1 (I assume this 3 piece set is all part of the Upper Hose? Or do they each have their own name? By 3 pieces I mean the rubber hose that comes out of the water pump, the metal hose and lastly the rubber hose that connects to the radiator)
Picture 2 (Lower Hose)
Picture 3 (Air Dam side view)
Picture 4 (Air Dam back view)
Picture 5 (Over flow and return hose)
I want to make sure I understand which direction the cooling system flows so please tell me if my finger is pointing in the right direction on the first two photos.
Picture 1 (I assume this 3 piece set is all part of the Upper Hose? Or do they each have their own name? By 3 pieces I mean the rubber hose that comes out of the water pump, the metal hose and lastly the rubber hose that connects to the radiator)
Picture 2 (Lower Hose)
Picture 3 (Air Dam side view)
Picture 4 (Air Dam back view)
Picture 5 (Over flow and return hose)
#86
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Also i see a big gap between your radiator and your core support. Air will bypass your radiator and flow the easier route out. Just by putting some foam in place to fill those voids i've seen 7-10 degree temp drops.
#87
Originally Posted by TA2SLOW346
Make a spacer for your airdamn to lower it 2-3 inches so it grabs more air. Also try taking off that ram air thing bet its blocking alot of air going into your radiator.
#88
Originally Posted by TA2SLOW346
Also i see a big gap between your radiator and your core support. Air will bypass your radiator and flow the easier route out. Just by putting some foam in place to fill those voids i've seen 7-10 degree temp drops.
That is the stock gap. Check my lower air box support, it is hooked up just as it should be. Only thing different is I don't have A/C anymore but again, I haven't had that in years.
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did you change the thermostat yet, radiator clogged?
someone mentioned about timing being to retarded. i've seen a few cars overheat pretty bad while driving but once i park it in my driveway it cooled down. just a thought maybe you're timing is too retarded. it's an odd problem thats for sure.
someone mentioned about timing being to retarded. i've seen a few cars overheat pretty bad while driving but once i park it in my driveway it cooled down. just a thought maybe you're timing is too retarded. it's an odd problem thats for sure.
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Originally Posted by PewterZ28
I'm not sure I follow. Are you talking about this gap:
That is the stock gap. Check my lower air box support, it is hooked up just as it should be. Only thing different is I don't have A/C anymore but again, I haven't had that in years.
That is the stock gap. Check my lower air box support, it is hooked up just as it should be. Only thing different is I don't have A/C anymore but again, I haven't had that in years.
Also do you have the transmission cooler lines still running thru the stock radiator? I would just run a cooler and not run it thru my radiator at all. With your 5000 rpm stall and 4.10 gears how cool do you think its suppose to run on the highway?
I bet with you moving your ram air set up back some it closed off even more area for the air to go.
Derrick try doing the things i told you and get back with me. If your still having problems i would try blocking the water pump bypass off and drilling a few holes in the stock stat. FYI my old TA would run about 140 degrees going down the road at night, and the fans hardly ever came on.
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Originally Posted by TA2SLOW346
Yes thats what im talking about. Once you pull out your AC you also take out some plastic shielding that helps block the air from going out those holes and making the air flow thru the radiator. Stuff it with some thick foam.
Originally Posted by TA2SLOW346
Also do you have the transmission cooler lines still running thru the stock radiator? I would just run a cooler and not run it thru my radiator at all. With your 5000 rpm stall and 4.10 gears how cool do you think its suppose to run on the highway?
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Sometimes when the EWP starts to go bad, they loose a significant amount of flow.
I would slap on a stock pump and see how it does..
Originally Posted by LS1curious
Hey there guy. Why don;t you take off the electric waterpump and slap on a belt driven one. Easy testing.
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I'm not sure, but I would think that the FTRA system could restrict a lot of airflow. Do they really make that much diffrence? I have never had one but I have heard some people say that they can cause overheating. Try running it without it. It may not be the cure, but it probably would help.
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I read this entire post, and it sound to me like a flow problem. You noted that when driving, the temps would rise a few degrees, and when idling the temps would drop a few degrees.
This is a classic sign of a flow problem....usually in the radiator, but since you have eliminated that, it is somewhere else.
My bet is that the heads are restricting the coolant flow. This problem started with the installation of the heads and is continuing with the heads still in place.
The other item I didn't see mention of was the heater core. There is a possibility that it is clogged and restricting hte collant flow, although I doubt it since your stock radiator was fine.
It's the heads...it has to be the heads...you've eliminated the other possibilities.
This is a classic sign of a flow problem....usually in the radiator, but since you have eliminated that, it is somewhere else.
My bet is that the heads are restricting the coolant flow. This problem started with the installation of the heads and is continuing with the heads still in place.
The other item I didn't see mention of was the heater core. There is a possibility that it is clogged and restricting hte collant flow, although I doubt it since your stock radiator was fine.
It's the heads...it has to be the heads...you've eliminated the other possibilities.
#100
Shawn,
Thanks for trying to help. I will do as you suggest and find some kind of foam to place in front of the radiator as to eliminate some of the gap. I will also remove the ram air kit just to eliminate that possibility also. However, I am not very optimistic this will cure my problems. You have to remember, my car ALWAYS ran in the 180's despite my 4900 stall, 4.10 gears, no overdrive and ram air kit installed. So there is no reason why it should suddenly start running 40 degrees hotter just because I installed new heads. I'm not quite sure how to go about the foam install. Seems like I will need to remove the radiator in order to get a big piece of foam in there.
I really think you are right, along with a few others who have posted this same opinion. I just want to eliminate ALL other possibilities first.
Thanks for trying to help. I will do as you suggest and find some kind of foam to place in front of the radiator as to eliminate some of the gap. I will also remove the ram air kit just to eliminate that possibility also. However, I am not very optimistic this will cure my problems. You have to remember, my car ALWAYS ran in the 180's despite my 4900 stall, 4.10 gears, no overdrive and ram air kit installed. So there is no reason why it should suddenly start running 40 degrees hotter just because I installed new heads. I'm not quite sure how to go about the foam install. Seems like I will need to remove the radiator in order to get a big piece of foam in there.
Originally Posted by NOBR8KSS
I read this entire post, and it sound to me like a flow problem. You noted that when driving, the temps would rise a few degrees, and when idling the temps would drop a few degrees.
This is a classic sign of a flow problem....usually in the radiator, but since you have eliminated that, it is somewhere else.
My bet is that the heads are restricting the coolant flow. This problem started with the installation of the heads and is continuing with the heads still in place.
The other item I didn't see mention of was the heater core. There is a possibility that it is clogged and restricting hte collant flow, although I doubt it since your stock radiator was fine.
It's the heads...it has to be the heads...you've eliminated the other possibilities.
This is a classic sign of a flow problem....usually in the radiator, but since you have eliminated that, it is somewhere else.
My bet is that the heads are restricting the coolant flow. This problem started with the installation of the heads and is continuing with the heads still in place.
The other item I didn't see mention of was the heater core. There is a possibility that it is clogged and restricting hte collant flow, although I doubt it since your stock radiator was fine.
It's the heads...it has to be the heads...you've eliminated the other possibilities.