228/232 .588/.595 110+? Lsa
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Wow, what an astonishing ability you have to name a bunch of irrelevant acronyms and repeat exactly what I just said.
Good thing ls1tech has you around, this forum would collapse without all 2859 of your knowledgeable and insightful posts.
Good thing ls1tech has you around, this forum would collapse without all 2859 of your knowledgeable and insightful posts.
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Sorry, i miss typed, the further that it is advanced the RPMs are moved down.. Sorry about the mis info. Yes my car is a dawg below 2500 RPMs. i need to get gears and some heads. i am still on the stock ones. Here is my cam graph
![](http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i96/torchd02ta/CAM/DSC01820.jpg)
And yes Being on a 110 +4 makes it harder to tune. LSA is mu8ch tighter than a straight up 110.
![](http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i96/torchd02ta/CAM/DSC01820.jpg)
And yes Being on a 110 +4 makes it harder to tune. LSA is mu8ch tighter than a straight up 110.
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Lobe separation angle, duration, lift, and intake centerline are all ground in to the cam. the only one you can change is th ICL by advancing or retarding the cam with an adjustable timing gear set. Example: by advancing the cam 4 degrees the intake and exhaust events both start 4 degrees earlier so the LSA STAYS THE SAME!!
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Your car needs more Static compression to come alive on the low end, otherwise, perhaps your tuner just isn't up to the job. It's not to difficult to get a good peak number to show everyone, but a lot more time goes into the drivability tune.
And I'm not saying your tuner didn't spend the time, but perhaps it wasn't time well spent.
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Lobe separation angle, duration, lift, and intake centerline are all ground in to the cam. the only one you can change is th ICL by advancing or retarding the cam with an adjustable timing gear set. Example: by advancing the cam 4 degrees the intake and exhaust events both start 4 degrees earlier so the LSA STAYS THE SAME!!
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#33
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10 degrees of overlap should not be a big challenge to tune. The popular G5X3 cam is 234/242 112+4. That cam has 14 degrees overlap and a 108 ICL, and lots of people are DD'ing it without much problem.
Your car needs more Static compression to come alive on the low end, otherwise, perhaps your tuner just isn't up to the job. It's not to difficult to get a good peak number to show everyone, but a lot more time goes into the drivability tune.
And I'm not saying your tuner didn't spend the time, but perhaps it wasn't time well spent.
Your car needs more Static compression to come alive on the low end, otherwise, perhaps your tuner just isn't up to the job. It's not to difficult to get a good peak number to show everyone, but a lot more time goes into the drivability tune.
And I'm not saying your tuner didn't spend the time, but perhaps it wasn't time well spent.
#34
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Originally Posted by 04gtod
Lobe separation angle, duration, lift, and intake centerline are all ground in to the cam. the only one you can change is th ICL by advancing or retarding the cam with an adjustable timing gear set. Example: by advancing the cam 4 degrees the intake and exhaust events both start 4 degrees earlier so the LSA STAYS THE SAME!!
Lobe separation angle, duration, lift, and intake centerline are all ground in to the cam. the only one you can change is th ICL by advancing or retarding the cam with an adjustable timing gear set. Example: by advancing the cam 4 degrees the intake and exhaust events both start 4 degrees earlier so the LSA STAYS THE SAME!!
Originally Posted by NoMoreFWD
How can ICL be ground in and yet changeable. Chose one or the other.
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The ICL is ground into the cam when it is ground, and for reasons I am not sure of is always relative to the LSA (i.e. a 227/234 .640/.598 112 camshaft will have a LSA of 112 degrees and will be installed with the ICL at 112, then if it is followed with a +2,+4 then it would be ground with that amount of advance giving it an ICL of 110,108 respectively). All the ICL really is the relationship between the center of the intake lobe and the crankshaft. The ground in ICL is determined by where they grind the cam in relation to the cam dowel and timing gear mounting bolts. This can be easily altered by installing an adjustable timing set and either rotating the camshaft to advance or retard the valve events in relation to the crankshaft/pistons. To make it simple, it is originally ground in, but can also be altered with an adjustable gear set. The LSA, however, can not be altered in a single camshaft application.
Last edited by BOWTIE; 10-06-2007 at 04:38 PM. Reason: typo
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My 228/230 xer is on 110 +1 and its a bit doggy down low, M6 BTW. Pulls good on top. Also, I'm running a ported FAST 90/90 and AFR 225 small bores. I knew I'd be giving some up down low but I've been planning a 400+ci short block for the spring so I just bought once rather than having to swap heads, etc.
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My 228/230 xer is on 110 +1 and its a bit doggy down low, M6 BTW. Pulls good on top. Also, I'm running a ported FAST 90/90 and AFR 225 small bores. I knew I'd be giving some up down low but I've been planning a 400+ci short block for the spring so I just bought once rather than having to swap heads, etc.
#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVESS02
My 228/230 xer is on 110 +1 and its a bit doggy down low, M6 BTW. Pulls good on top. Also, I'm running a ported FAST 90/90 and AFR 225 small bores. I knew I'd be giving some up down low but I've been planning a 400+ci short block for the spring so I just bought once rather than having to swap heads, etc.
quote= what gears you running? I need to know if mine will feel dogish down low because if it does i dont want the cam
Originally Posted by DAVESS02
My 228/230 xer is on 110 +1 and its a bit doggy down low, M6 BTW. Pulls good on top. Also, I'm running a ported FAST 90/90 and AFR 225 small bores. I knew I'd be giving some up down low but I've been planning a 400+ci short block for the spring so I just bought once rather than having to swap heads, etc.
quote= what gears you running? I need to know if mine will feel dogish down low because if it does i dont want the cam
You have none of that and a stalled A4, with a good tune you'll fry your tires and that is not dogish by any means.
That is a good cam for your setup