i am planning to build a iorn block 409ci LS1 this winter even though the car is for sale. i figure the parts list will go as follows:
-LQ4 iorn block
-Lunati 4 inch stroke crank (i have a good friend with a discount)
-Lunati pro mod rods
-custom JE pistons (11:1 comp. with heads)
-cam??? (hyd. or solid, i dont mind adjusting valves)
-TEA 5.3 or 6.0 heads??? (ported of course)
-LS6 intake
-throttle body size???
-mass air size???

the car will end up with hooker LT headers and some sort of free flowing exhaust. i plan to run the auto tranny with a stall, and a built rear and the suspension mods to boot. what i need is some help with the blanks in the parts list and a decent estimate on the power i might see. this will be a daily driver until school is done and the i plan to change some things for the spray, but right now it is gonna be N/A, and daily driven.

any insight is great...

 

you are looking at low 10s i think when you are done, wow.

 

ttt

 

...would love to do the same - also this winter. Does any one know about alternatives to the Lunati cranks which are very pricey?

Since this is the biggest cost item, it would save a bunch....

I don't understand why you can buy a forged Gen 2 for peanuts but a GEN 3 crank is more than $2K???

I suppose as time goes on, Gen 3 cranks will come down in price a bunch; is this correct?

 

What is left on that motor that is LS1?

 

There are not many places selling LS1 stroker cranks... First off, they are all billet. Scat makes them too, and they are not cheaper, they are more expensive.

I had a 422ci iron block, 475rwhp/ 505rwtq locked thru a 9" on 28" slicks. I'd say that's 490rwhp with an M6.

I had a 4.075 stroke (Lunati 4.000 offset ground) with a 4.060 bore.

If you go solid roller it will cost another $1500+.

I had ARE LS6 heads with big valves and stage II porting.

I last had the S1 cam. It was a bit too lopey for my taste, I had a similar cam on a 114 before and it idled a lot better.

 

Pro Stock:
Killer motor; is this the one that had the reluctor ring problem? I assume Lunati has worked out any of these issues by now...

If i have heads with 60cc chambers i assume i need pistons dished out about 15cc...to avoid high CR (normally aspirated set up for me).

Is it less expensive to get a whole rotating assembly kit or just accumulate parts as cash becomes available....?

 

i can get a 4 inch crank from lunati for just over $1000 though my buddy who works there. i have seen the LQ4 blocks go for $350 or so. Rods should be around $400 with his dicount also. i figure the expensive part will be the pistons.

 

$1000 for that crank is well below cost.

Yeah Robert, but the reluctor has been fixed. My crank had been offset ground so that no doubt contributed to the reluctor working it's way loose.

My old motor peaked at 5950, and made peak tq at like 4200 rpms...

IMO I'd kick around doing a 114 LSA.

My prior 244/244//114 lunati peaked at 6200.

 

PSJ: what would be a more affordabe setup for high 10's N/A? can you do a iorn block all bore motor with a stock crank? and if so what part would i need?

 

Hmmm... A safe bore on an iron block would be 4.030. You could run a stock crank and I'm not sure what that yields. You'd have to work with a company like Diamond to figure out what length rod you would need, and what compression you want.

If you can get a Lunati 4.000 crank for $1000 I would pick one up for sure. But keep in mind that all the parts have to work with each other.

I went 11.02 with my car and it was not that well dialed in.

Did you want more specific info?

 

PSJ:i have seen some guys run the iorn LQ4 and take it 4.060. i dont know if this is the best idea in the world or not. i cant afford to have a aluminum block resleaved. i fall in the more cubes the better school of thought though. how are the other guys getting these iorn block cubic inch numbers? what parts are they using and what numbers are they putting out?