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Building a 383, I need a little help.

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Old Oct 13, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JRracing
What is a good size cam for a 383. I'm thinking of mid 240's.
Another 383 guy here. I went with the TSP Giant cam. 248/254 .615 .614 on 113


I ran 10.93 @ 122. All motor and running stock 853 heads, stock tb, LS6 intake. No idea on dyno numbers but my raceweight is around 3450 if that helps. I'm very happy I went 383. You're gonna love it.
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Old Oct 13, 2007 | 04:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JRracing
What size is that cam? A 244 ? 612 lift? is that on int/ext. That rotating assly kit you have is the same one I have.
I'm not gonna lie, I don't remember exactly and the cam card is back in the States. It is a 244 duration 612 lift, but I think there is a small split. I tried looking it up on Comp's site with no luck.
The Eagle stuff gets a lot of negative press around here, but I have no complaints. I hit it with a little TNT wet shot now and again...
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Old Oct 13, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JRracing
I'm jealous your are at the shoot out. My buddy rolled out Thursday night and wanted me to go but I have a three week old baby girl and would not feel comfortable being that far away from home.

Why would you not recommend a solid roller? The cam I have now is a 236/236 .651/.651 lift. I was thinking of going with something a bit bigger. Like mid 240's would that be to big for a street/strip car?
solid rollers require different components, lifters, bigger valve springs, adjustable rockers, etc.. and there is maitence involved(lash valves). solid rollers like rpms, and the rpm and power range that you want and are looking for, can be achieved with a hyd. roller. there tons of hyd. roller profiles out right now that will do what you want them to do. if you want something in the 240 range, i suggest 240/244.

congrats on your baby girl man. hey me and pat monroe(@GLM) are interested in buying your flycutting tools so let me or him know if you still want to sell them.
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Old Oct 14, 2007 | 12:58 AM
  #24  
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apparently the pre 99 blocks ot there abouts had inferior ribbing towards the rear and other critical areas that wasn't accounted for distortion in more develped powerplants,i guess gm realised this aint gonna look good so they redesigned the later blocks with the more rigid flat support faces towards the rearward cylinders especially .question is which block was you running?
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:17 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jay_99z
Another 383 guy here. I went with the TSP Giant cam. 248/254 .615 .614 on 113


I ran 10.93 @ 122. All motor and running stock 853 heads, stock tb, LS6 intake. No idea on dyno numbers but my raceweight is around 3450 if that helps. I'm very happy I went 383. You're gonna love it.
Those times are pretty good I'd say. With what tranny? M6 or A4?

I love your sig.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:25 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JPH
solid rollers require different components, lifters, bigger valve springs, adjustable rockers, etc.. and there is maitence involved(lash valves). solid rollers like rpms, and the rpm and power range that you want and are looking for, can be achieved with a hyd. roller. there tons of hyd. roller profiles out right now that will do what you want them to do. if you want something in the 240 range, i suggest 240/244.

congrats on your baby girl man. hey me and pat monroe(@GLM) are interested in buying your flycutting tools so let me or him know if you still want to sell them.
Very good point! I knew about the additional parts required to go solid roller and the maintenance. The cost of the extra parts would be more than I want to get into right now. I think I'm gonna stick with the hydraulic set up.

Thanks for the baby comment! I am now a proud poppa!!
We had a beautiful baby girl (Olivia) I've waited a long time for this. And could not be any happier!!!

I think I'm done with the fly cutting tools for now. I would let you borrow them if you need them. I need to get with chad also and get my injectors.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 01:30 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by oz304
apparently the pre 99 blocks ot there abouts had inferior ribbing towards the rear and other critical areas that wasn't accounted for distortion in more develped powerplants,i guess gm realised this aint gonna look good so they redesigned the later blocks with the more rigid flat support faces towards the rearward cylinders especially .question is which block was you running?

My block in the car is the stock 2000 I think. I'll have to look at the production date.

More importantly, I need to know what year block this is I got from the guy. He says it's an 01. But I'm trying to confirm by the #'s I have posted on the first page.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 06:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JRracing
Those times are pretty good I'd say. With what tranny? M6 or A4?

I love your sig.


A4 with Yank 4400 stall.


Thanks.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #29  
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12558806...97-98...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc
12559853...99-up...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BAN-LS1
12558806...97-98...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc
12559853...99-up...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc


Hey, thanks for that. I'll check these #'s tomorrow.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:10 AM
  #31  
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Guys I have comp 850-16 lifters with only about 5K miles on them. Would they be fine to reuse. They have been fine so far.

And what is the RPM limits of these lifters?
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 01:38 AM
  #32  
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Do I need the flywheel and balancer to get the assembly balanced?
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by JRracing
Do I need the flywheel and balancer to get the assembly balanced?
yes sir.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 07:09 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BAN-LS1
12558806...97-98...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc
12559853...99-up...346..........Gen.III, "LS1", aluminum, 68cc


My block # is 12550592 there is a circle on the back that has a 97 on it. I hope this is not a first year block.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 01:06 AM
  #35  
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A few pics of the parts I have. I'm hoping to get it all dropped off at M&M machine shop next week after I have everything rounded up.





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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 02:55 AM
  #36  
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give em the whole lot when you get it balanced,dampner,pulley,timing cogs,flywheel,clutch disc +pressure plate
make sure its all refferenced for you.
your bearings will love ya for it.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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jr, if pat from GLM has not got ahold of you, i need, or we need to borrow/buy your flycutters. i'm grinding him one of my cams, and it won't fit in his 346 without flycutting. so let me know if he hasn't goten with you, and i will send you a check or money order for them. thanks man.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JPH
jr, if pat from GLM has not got ahold of you, i need, or we need to borrow/buy your flycutters. i'm grinding him one of my cams, and it won't fit in his 346 without flycutting. so let me know if he hasn't goten with you, and i will send you a check or money order for them. thanks man.
Let me know. Tell him to call me. We can set something up.
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 12:28 AM
  #39  
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I'm dropping the motor and tranny out tomorrow. I will take some pics of the damaged cylinder and #7 piston. Then I can take everything apart and get the parts off I need to get balanced with the new rotating assembly.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:41 AM
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Well I dropped the motor and tranny today. Now I can get the rest of the motor stripped down. Check out the damaged piston and cracked sleeve in the #7 hole. Sucks ***. I'm not sure why this happened. I noticed the piston is broke right were the ring gaps meet. Could this be a clue?

I still need to know what year block this is 12550592 there is a small round stamp on the back under the rear cover that has a 97 in the middle of it. Does this mean it's a 97? I hope not.










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