Well, I'm building a 383 after my stock short block took a crap on me. The #7 cylinder has a cracked sleeve and broke a ring land.
1st Question, What usually causes this problem? Detonation?

So I bought a short block off of a fellow tech member. It is a used block and the machine work is already done with cam bearings installed. But the back one is a bit dinged up on the edges. Looks like maybe from installing them I dunno. But I'm going to have them replaced for peace of mind. And have the block cleaned and inspected thoroughly before assembling it.
The #'s on the block are 1w2113003 or 9726807-58-1
Can someone verify what year block this is for me please?

And the rest of the parts are:
Eagle 4340 4" crank
Eagle 4340 H beam 6.125" rods with arp standard bolts
Diamond -2cc pistons 11.2 comp with 62cc head 2618 alloy 3.905 bore #11505
Hastings moly rings 2m4897-010 (these came with the kit but bought separately.
Clevite 77 cb663 H rod bearings
Clevite 77 ms2199H main bearings
The rotating assembly is already balanced.

There are other rings in the piston box that are the 1.5mm comp rings but there are only 8 of them. Shouldn't there be 16? 2 for each piston.

Any ways, that is what I bought. After I get it back from the machine shop and get the arp main studs I'm ready to start putting it together.
I will be putting the AFR 205's on this motor. I may be having Mike Duke Racing do a little more porting to them for the larger cubes. I think this a good idea. He is not some Jo schmo, he does pro stock bike heads and some big race engine stuff. So I trust him.

I will also be having Patrick G spec me out a new cam for this. The last one he did for me was awesome. Very satisfied with the results.
Thinking about a solid roller for fast revving dunno yet.

I will be putting the fast 90mm back on it. as well as spraying the TNT 150 shot for the track. And maybe upping it to a 200 shot or possibly a 250 shot on down the road.

Now for plans with the car. It is a street/strip car with AC and almost full interior. So it will be heavy(3500ish) and I only put about 5000 miles on it a year. And maybe up to 20 track days a year. But could be more if I have the time. The car has a 9" with 4.11's in it now. And I plan on doing a TH400 with a brake and healthy converter. I think think this would be best for the track.
Or a face plated T56 with a new twin disc textraila. Which I think would be more beneficial for the street but still work great at the track. I need some more advice on this one. Please, input needed.

I hope to make 500+ HP with this motor. I need some advice on the right combination to make this motor a beast but still be able to drive it on the street. I'm trying to walk that fine line between the two lol.
I hope this is going to be a great experience!

If ya need more info on the set up let me know.
Thanks in advance!

 

Also needing a little info on bearing clearances for the rods and mains. The pistons say .001" to .003" for street blown/n2o motors.

I'm not real sure about the rings that come with this motor. Should I check into getting some n2o rings of some sort?

 

Guys I've searched through a ton of 383 builds including tony mammo's and found some good info. I'm just looking for more info.

 

Forged 383 block here, running AFR 205's out of the box, 234/238 114 cam, FAST 90, LT & catback and all the other bolt-ons.

see my sig & web-site for details!

 

i got a 383 in mine, with 5.3 heads, dynoyed 458 in an auto, car runs 6.90's on motor with worn out M/T's.my car has no weight reduction wth a/c
first i would make sure that this assembly is correctly balanced, i would keep the cam roller, not a big fan of solid, neither is my engine builder. car will run STRONG man with a good stall. my car is outruning 408's all day long. this car ran some 7.30's on street tires (kuhmos). i havent put the bottle on mine yet, but iam very soon.from what u got right now, u will be very satisfied

 

Wow, that is EXACTLY what happened to my stock motor. I would also like to know what causes this.

I also went with a 383 stroker. I got mine from Weber Racing in Ohio. Unfortunately I have been fighting an elusive overheating problem and have not been able to get my motor tuned and on a dyno. I really think I will be making over 480 rwhp UNLOCKED by the time I get everything running right. I currently have ETP 225 small bore heads but I am trying to get a set of Trick Flows because I think my overheating problem is being caused by the heads. I also have a set of 1-7/8" ARH headers I am going to swap on after we make the first set of dyno pulls. I want to make some pulls with my FLP 1-3/4" headers first and then go to the bigger headers. That way I'll know exactly how much they helped or hurt my numbers.

BTW, I have a TH350 with a 8" converter. I put down 443/400 on the stock motor UNLOCKED. I am hoping the extra cubes and the bigger headers will bump me up over the 480/450 mark. We will see.

 

Any paricular reason why you say stay away from a solid roller? I've heard good things about them other than adjusting them.

 

Can anyone confirm the #'s on the block to what year it is?

 

I was considering buying a motor from webber racing. Are you pleased with it other than your over heating problem?

What size converter are you running in the th350?

 

I just ordered a set of ARP main studs and a new set of cam bearings last night.

Can anyone tell me what year block I have by the #'s I posted above????

 

I am running a Cartek 383 (382 actually) 4" stoke, very similar internals, "Stage 3" everything. Lunati/Eagle/JE internals. More specs in sig. My car put down 492whp/457tq on an absolute shitty tune. (tuned much better now) It hasn't been to the track yet So, you should be right where you wanna be horsepower wise.

 

Sounds like you have a very nice set up there. With a mild cam to. I take it it's a hydraulic roller? What is your CR?

I'm thinking about putting a th400 in it with a brake and decent size stall just to drag race it for a few years and then switch back to the M6.

 

I am very happy with Weber, they treated me very professionally. Unfortunately I don't have any WOT time on my engine at all so I can't say definitively how it runs. BUT I did get on it slightly a couple times and it felt like a beast. By this time next week, if all goes well, I should have some real results to talk about.

I'm using an ATI 8" converter. It should flash somewhere around 4600 rpm. I really won't know until next week because I had the converter tightened up a little but I have not had a chance to flash it yet. It used to flash at 4900 on my cam-only stock motor. When I switch to a nitrous converter you can bet I will go with ATI again.

 

What is a good size cam for a 383. I'm thinking of mid 240's.

 

Is anyone out there? Or is everyone at Memphis? LOL.

 

im in memphis. you cam profile will work fine. 236/240 is what i would put in it, if you start over. you should have 16 count 1.5mm top/second compression rings, and 8 count 3.0mm oil tension rings. solid roller i would not advise in your new build, unless you are going to turn more than 7200k.

 

I'm using a 238/240 Comp grind in my 383.

 

Here's my set-up:
TEA 5.3 1.5 heads with 2.05 intake 1.60 exhaust
Forged Dimond pistons approximate compression 11.2 to 1 with current heads
Forged Eagle Rods 6.125 inch
Forged Eagle Crank 4
Comp Cams XER 612/244/112 +4
Rollmaster Timing chain
TSP oil pump
I make 450/450 with perfect driveability on a recent tune, but my LS6 intake is choking me up top. With a FAST 90/90, I'll bet I'd be more like 480/460...

 

I'm jealous your are at the shoot out. My buddy rolled out Thursday night and wanted me to go but I have a three week old baby girl and would not feel comfortable being that far away from home.

Why would you not recommend a solid roller? The cam I have now is a 236/236 .651/.651 lift. I was thinking of going with something a bit bigger. Like mid 240's would that be to big for a street/strip car?

 

What size is that cam? A 244 ? 612 lift? is that on int/ext. That rotating assly kit you have is the same one I have.