Head Bolts or Studs????
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 96
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From: Bradford, Canada
Head Bolts or Studs???? I'm planning on doing a head and cam swap on my 99 vette FRC. My horsepower goal is 500hp at the crank and I'm wondering if I should go with head bolts or head studs? Would OEM bolts be ok for this application or should I go with ARP bolts or go with the studs?
I would for sure go with ARP. I hate the damn TTQ stock head bolts. I have the ARP bolts on my trans am because I was told that the studs made it hard to get the heads off of an F body. The vette has more room so you may be ok with the studs. Either way ARP is the way to go.
Another vote for studs. In addition to the relative ease of the torque sequence, they are easier on the block than torquing a bolt into the block. Over time and repeated torquings (is that a real word), the threads in the block could weaken, and lets face it, once you've removed the heads the first time, subsequent times become easier, and having the studs in the block make it that much easier. No fluid in the bolt holes to clean out, no cleaning the threads time and time again. Other than the additional cost up front, there is no reason not to use studs on a performance motor.
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Another vote for studs. In addition to the relative ease of the torque sequence, they are easier on the block than torquing a bolt into the block. Over time and repeated torquings (is that a real word), the threads in the block could weaken, and lets face it, once you've removed the heads the first time, subsequent times become easier, and having the studs in the block make it that much easier. No fluid in the bolt holes to clean out, no cleaning the threads time and time again. Other than the additional cost up front, there is no reason not to use studs on a performance motor.
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I personally like Bolts but thats always been on Iron blocks, with the LS1, I dont think I would have a choice in the matter. Plus any crap that gets in the bolt holes could crack the block.
A stud is a threaded rod for simplistic terms, that you thread into the block or wherever it's going and then use a washer and nut on top to apply the clamping force. A bolt is pretty obvious.
Those are studs, that go into the block, the head sits on top of them, then you top them off with a washer and a nut .
Those are studs, that go into the block, the head sits on top of them, then you top them off with a washer and a nut .
A stud is a threaded rod for simplistic terms, that you thread into the block or wherever it's going and then use a washer and nut on top to apply the clamping force. A bolt is pretty obvious.
Those are studs, that go into the block, the head sits on top of them, then you top them off with a washer and a nut .
Those are studs, that go into the block, the head sits on top of them, then you top them off with a washer and a nut .
I just did this job on a C5 and I'm not sure you're gonna clear the brake booster if you use studs. It depends on how much they stick up out of the block. If they are as long as some I've seen you'd better stick with the bolts. The heads tuck up under the firewall also. Just a side note also...With the ARP bolts you have to go back and re-torque after a heat cycle. The stretchies don't require that.
Ray
Ray
I just did this job on a C5 and I'm not sure you're gonna clear the brake booster if you use studs. It depends on how much they stick up out of the block. If they are as long as some I've seen you'd better stick with the bolts. The heads tuck up under the firewall also. Just a side note also...With the ARP bolts you have to go back and re-torque after a heat cycle. The stretchies don't require that.
Ray
Ray
There is no reason other than the cost (which isn't that bad) not to run studs.
