John B

iTrader: (10)

Since I am now replacing my destroyed rocker and the rest of the stockers with Yella Terra's I am going to tear down the motor and replace anything weak or suspect. Here's what the pan baffle looked like with the rest of the needle bearings (and notice the metal dust!).


My plans are to replace the rings since I know that GM has upgraded these (maybe new pistons too), replacing bearings and rod bolts, oil pump and adding an adjustable timing chain set. I will also be notching the pistons for a larger camshaft. Any other ideas while I have the shortblock apart?

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Forged pistons and rods. If you take it apart once, might as well tie up all the loose ends.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Rod bolts, main caps, dual valve springs, double roller timing chain and ARP head studs.

thechef

iTrader: (13)

head studs if you got the thing apart

rings,forged pistons,rod bolts

GeorgeC

IMO, a nice "budget" rebuild should include:

hone block .005
New pistons/rings (Diamond)
Re-use stock rods, install ARP bolts

Rod bearings are pretty inexpensive, so I'd replace them as well, and carefully inspect the main bearings for excessive clearance/wear, and replace if needed.

ARP head studs make it easier next time you pull the heads off, as they can be used over and over unlike the stock bolts.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Sounds like you have it all covered, perhaps run a ball hone through the cylinders if it's needed.

Why not just replace the rockers and leave it at that, that's what most folks do when they break a stock rocker.

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

Im having MTI build me a 387 all bore with stock rods, and stock crank. They are using ARP rod bolts, stock head bolts (I have ARP head studs, but I didnt send them to them... its a new block, so I dont think it needs them) a nice 2 row timing chain, better bearings, a nicer ported oil pump, etc. I'll add yella terras and a meziere when I have time after its all working in stock form.

I htink PSJ has the right idea though. I would (if it were mine) just drive it while you save up for a resleeved block and bigger pistons, and see if anything happens. If nothing happens, then you will be able to choose your engine later on, rather than just putting only the basics in now.

I-5 through Tacoma demands a little emergency power now and again anyways ;-)

chris

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

I'm starting the rebuild on my LS6 right now. Because mine is a very low mile motor (don't ask why I'm rebuilding it ), I am doing this:

-Lunati NHRA stock class pistons (forged duplicate of stock w/ floating pins)
-new GM rings
-Manley sportmaster rods (forged, stock length, ARP fasteners)
-ARP head/main studs and balancer bolt
-Cometic head gaskets
-new Federal Mogul rod and main bearings

That comes to right at $2,000.

I plan to run a hone through the cylinders myself and I will have the rotating assembly balanced by a machine shop.

I hope it makes a stout little LS6 for a reasonable amount of cash.

Crazyquik

About how much does a set of those cost?

J.

John B

iTrader: (10)

Since I had to basically pull the motor to get the oil pan off I don't want to pull the motor out again later to do anything more to it. My oil mileage is poor and I notice that it "puffs" blue smoke on deceleration so I figure this is costing me a few HP due to poor ring sealing.

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

$465 directly from Lunati. E-mail or PM me if you want a contact at Lunati.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

If youre going to go through the trouble of taking it out, I would get forged Diamond pistions (already have 2cc valve reliefs, so no notching), Diamond file fit rings, Eagle 6.1 rods (depending on what you want to do with motor, stock rods with ARP bolts may work), hone cylinders to finish bore of 3.905, turn/ polish crank, get new bearings, and DEFINATELY get the LS6 PCV system

Might as well do it good the first time