Do I NEED ARP bolts/studs?
Do I NEED ARP bolts/studs? I'm not going extreme...I have a 224 cam and ls6 heads and put a 125 shot on top of it. Can I just re-use stock head bolts or get new stockers or do I need the ARP's??
The way I think of it is that I've been running the stockers and haven't had any problems for soo long, why would I need the studs right now? I'm not upping the shot or adding much more power.
Thanks again
The way I think of it is that I've been running the stockers and haven't had any problems for soo long, why would I need the studs right now? I'm not upping the shot or adding much more power.
Thanks again
Moving to internal even though the choice is clear here. Studs are for the major changes over and over. You just need a set of stock bolts. Clean the bolt holes. Your good to go.
no they should be fine but they have a strange way of torquing them. you have to torque them by degrees. dont recall the specifics but basically you torque the to say 50 psi then tighten them 75 degrees then 45 more. gm sells a 360 degree dial used for this purpose, i just went with the ARP studs to ensure proper torque
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well all these guys are giving their opinions of which they think is the best....(which they are right) however your asking if you need either of those and the answer is -no-. Youll NEED at a minimum NEW stock bolts..and with a shot that small they will work just fine...however its recommended to go with at least ARP bolts, much easier to install, STRONGER, and you can re-use them. I see no need going with studs on something this light..it would be overkill.
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I agree with the above. Your stocker head bolts are a torque to yield, meaning once you torque it down, it achieves a superior clamping force due to the stretch in the bolt. once you remove that same bolt, that bolt has lost its clamping force and the properties that provided it have been destroyed by stretching it. one-shot deal.
stock replacement bolts are the best option for ya.
ARP bolts would be a step up that wouldnt really be necessary, but are reusable as a plus.
studs would be just plain ridiculous. if you ever had an issue and took the motor to the shop, they would have to damn near drop the motor to get the heads off the studs. at the very least it would be a pain in the ***. you arent blowing the **** out of the motor or hitting it with a 500 shot fogger so its waste of cash and a pain in the *** to boot.
stock replacement bolts are the best option for ya.
ARP bolts would be a step up that wouldnt really be necessary, but are reusable as a plus.
studs would be just plain ridiculous. if you ever had an issue and took the motor to the shop, they would have to damn near drop the motor to get the heads off the studs. at the very least it would be a pain in the ***. you arent blowing the **** out of the motor or hitting it with a 500 shot fogger so its waste of cash and a pain in the *** to boot.
Stock bolts are perfectly good for head and cam packages. Since you are going to spraying a 125hp shot, ARP head bolts would not be a bad idea. Nitrous has a very quick combustion process and creates extra cylinder pressure( that is why you need less timing ). ARP bolts are much stronger than stock and will hold up to nitrous better. If you are going to be removing the heads a lot, studs make things easier. If you are going to be spraying more 125hp, then studs again will be better than bolts as they have greater holding strength.
Keith
Keith
NO, you do not NEED ARP bolts or studs, but why spend all the money to upgrade internals and heads and add nitrous...then use NEW torque to yeild bolts???
Studs are overkill on 99% of the set ups on this board, bolts are just fine and easier to install! They are relatively inexpensive to purchase (yes we sell them) and REUSEABLE unlike GM's ****.
Go with ARP bolts with some assembly lube and drive happy!
Studs are overkill on 99% of the set ups on this board, bolts are just fine and easier to install! They are relatively inexpensive to purchase (yes we sell them) and REUSEABLE unlike GM's ****.
Go with ARP bolts with some assembly lube and drive happy!
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I agree with the above. Your stocker head bolts are a torque to yield, meaning once you torque it down, it achieves a superior clamping force due to the stretch in the bolt. once you remove that same bolt, that bolt has lost its clamping force and the properties that provided it have been destroyed by stretching it. one-shot deal.
stock replacement bolts are the best option for ya.
ARP bolts would be a step up that wouldnt really be necessary, but are reusable as a plus.
studs would be just plain ridiculous. if you ever had an issue and took the motor to the shop, they would have to damn near drop the motor to get the heads off the studs. at the very least it would be a pain in the ***. you arent blowing the **** out of the motor or hitting it with a 500 shot fogger so its waste of cash and a pain in the *** to boot.
stock replacement bolts are the best option for ya.
ARP bolts would be a step up that wouldnt really be necessary, but are reusable as a plus.
studs would be just plain ridiculous. if you ever had an issue and took the motor to the shop, they would have to damn near drop the motor to get the heads off the studs. at the very least it would be a pain in the ***. you arent blowing the **** out of the motor or hitting it with a 500 shot fogger so its waste of cash and a pain in the *** to boot.
