Need advice on head/cam selection.
Mods that I have in mind to reach this goal:
_GMMG catback (on the way) 5-7hp
_American racing headers (waiting for a GP) 15-25hp
_SLP Lid (going to buy next week) 2-10hp
+ported stock TB by ?????? 0-12hp
+ud pulley(will not know the gains because it will be installed with Head/cam)
+yank SS 3600 or vig 32000 (hopefully I can leave my drivetrain stock)
Hopefully I can leave my drivetrain stock, and that is why the cam that I'm interested in is thunderRacing's cheaTR cam 214/230 .601/.575 117 LSA with off idle to 6800rpm. It says that only minor tuning is needed with an automatic, what minor tuning that is please let me know. This cam seems to make power everywhere, smog friendly and has a smooth stock like idle, that is what I am look for in a cam. Also this cam has similar specs to their blower cam which leads me to believe that the cheaTR would work with a D1SC for more power
TR has a Head/Cam package but it is pricey at $2715.97 with the upgraded rods and gaskets. For that price will the AFR heads have double springs and titanium retainers assembled? Will the compression ratio be stock or higher? Is the shipping included in the price?
If I don't go that route for a head/cam combo, to save money I'm interested in the TexasSpeed PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads with PRC double spring kit and cheaTR cam. Will the cheaTR work with PRC heads? Will the gains in power be up to par with AFR heads/CheaTR cam package?
I need some advice on this, feel free to reply.
Some persuasive talk from a Texas Speed or Thunder Racing sponsor is welcome too.
The AFR package would bump your compression you could go with the 59cc chambers. I doubt shipping is included. You may have to upgrade to the better springs, it may not be included. It isn't through AFR unless specified. The cheaTR will work with the PRC's, but no, you will not gain as much power as with AFR's.
I have 59cc chamber AFR 205's with the TSP224R... I made 410 with a horrible exhaust system I should be making more like 430rwhp, that's an idea...
You could always go with some ported 5.3's and a middle-big cam, but if you want to keep the drivetrain (STALL) stock that's out of the question...
Either way you are going to have some troubles with the stock 4L60E, I torched my trans within 5k miles

Hope that helps...
if you aren't breaking parts, you aren't going fast.
of these 3 words: "cheap, fast, and reliable".. when racing cars you can only pick 2, and you won't have the third..
I'm sure there's other cliche`s out there that apply as well.
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