#5 head bolt torque fubar'd
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#5 head bolt torque fubar'd
I'm torquing down my AFR heads just like this guide says to (with the marked lines and all, so you'd really have to be brain-dead to screw it up, ahem), when I get to the second 90-degree pass on bolt #5.
This bolt, unlike all the others and unlike my first pass on it, turns really easy 20 ft-lbs easy. I really don't want to have to go into the heads again. What do you guys think the best course of action is? Torque it down to roughly what the other bolts are? Buy ARPs, or another set of stock bolts and re-torque? I'm probably not going to be tearing the heads off again if everything holds, so the ARPs seem like somewhat of a waste.
I'm using .036" cometic gaskets on a NA LS1 with the stock bottom end. I'm not quite sure how this happened, as I spent hours cleaning the head bolt threads in the block.
Thanks for any help.
This bolt, unlike all the others and unlike my first pass on it, turns really easy 20 ft-lbs easy. I really don't want to have to go into the heads again. What do you guys think the best course of action is? Torque it down to roughly what the other bolts are? Buy ARPs, or another set of stock bolts and re-torque? I'm probably not going to be tearing the heads off again if everything holds, so the ARPs seem like somewhat of a waste.
I'm using .036" cometic gaskets on a NA LS1 with the stock bottom end. I'm not quite sure how this happened, as I spent hours cleaning the head bolt threads in the block.
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by Grant B; 11-02-2007 at 04:59 PM.
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So on your torque-to-yield pass the #5 bolt feels looser then the rest of them? IMO, I would pull the head back off and double check to see if the threads are damaged, but that's just me. When it comes to internal engine work, you don't want to just let things slide. If the bolt isn't torqued properly, you run a risk of the head gasket leaking, in turn could damage the engine if the coolant mixes with the oil. If you decide to remove the head and have to get new head bolts, I HIGHLY recommend ARP bolts, reuseable and you don't have to deal with the torque to yield BS.
Good luck
Good luck
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if it was tight, and then got easy, pull it back down and get arp's... keep going on it and it will break off in the block. i try to talk everyone into at least arp bolts because extracting broken bolts is a pain in the ***
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So on your torque-to-yield pass the #5 bolt feels looser then the rest of them? IMO, I would pull the head back off and double check to see if the threads are damaged, but that's just me. When it comes to internal engine work, you don't want to just let things slide. If the bolt isn't torqued properly, you run a risk of the head gasket leaking, in turn could damage the engine if the coolant mixes with the oil. If you decide to remove the head and have to get new head bolts, I HIGHLY recommend ARP bolts, reuseable and you don't have to deal with the torque to yield BS.
Good luck
Good luck