1ssmokinls1

I am a regular poster on ls1.com and didnt really get much of a response so maybe you guys can give me some advice

Im going to be graduating in September and will have a nice paying job once im out and I was thinking by then it will be time for me to start seriously working on my car. I need some help from you guys though as to which way I should go, im looking for roughly 430-440 rwhp. Keep in mind, this needs to be streetable. This is what I was thinking so far:

- Rapid Motorsports Stage II Head and Cam Package (not sure which cam I should go with...I will have to call them and see what they think) w/ FLP longtubes, ported/polished throttle body. (Im planning on having them do this whole setup).

Now I know the stock 10bolt rear is very "fragile" but I wasnt really planning on racing this car at the track though so I dont need to run slicks or anything. It should hold up if I dont abuse it and run street tires, right? I also know the clutch really wont hold up very long with a setup like this, but my gameplan is replace it if it breaks. My biggest concern is whether I should shell out the extra money immediatley for it and get it over with, or can I get away with it and still be happy? I was looking into the RAM clutch, but Im not sure which one I should go with. Any other driveline components that Im missing out here, please let let me know the other things I should be looking at as well.

Now, on to the rest. How will my fuel supply be? Will I need to add a fuel pump, injectors? I dont want to hurt this car, its my only one right now and I want it to be reliable and done right. Now I know some of you may say if your going to do it right, i should do a 12bolt w/ 4.10s and the clutch along with it, but If I dont have to, Ill hold off on it and take care of it if it takes a crap on me. I need some help here guys, thanks for any suggestions or knowledge you can share with me!

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Well, I'm running roughly the same HP, and still using the stock 10-bolt. Been beating the crap out of it since Feb. 1st when I got the car back. I run DR's, but with this much HP they go up in smoke. I'm still running stock injectors and fuel pump, and all is well. I'll know more when I dyno with regards to fuel. I have the RAM980 and love it, did it b4 the H/C. As long as you don't dump your stock clutch above 2500 rpm, it will live. I would suggest Rapid add a better oil pump as well as a better timing chain. Cam-wise - yea, see what Rapid says but I can say my TR224 on a 112 is totally streetable. So you can hold off on the 12-bolt and clutch until they go.

quickWS6

Rearends vary, some live under more harsh condition then others. As for the fuel supply, it depends on the car. I've heard of many H/C cars with stock injectors, and some cam only cars maxing out their injectors. It partly depends on the year of the car, the 98s and 01+s have bigger injectors. I think you will probably be fine. I would invest in a better clutch though, I assume you're going to be laying it down some if you want that much power, so I think you're going to want to step up in that department pretty soon after the H/C.

1ssmokinls1

Thanks so much for the speedy response Do you think that I should do any other mods that would compliment the H/C combo? I am hoping after I do it and with it tuned that i can put down around 440 streetable rwhp.

1ssmokinls1

I have a feeling my rear end will hold at least for a little while, I dont abuse the car but I will open it up once in a while if i feel the urge On street tires it will just blow the tires off through 3rd gear anyways, so I wouldnt be ripping out of the hole I would like to do the clutch but it would be alot more costly to do that right away, and I kind of feel that I will just let it go until it breaks and or starts slipping badly...

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Just don't spin the tires over any bumps or holes, that's how I blew out my 10 bolt rear. I'm running a 9 inch Moser now . . . And if you put in a high lift cam (over .550") make sure you get hardened pushrods, stiffer springs, and Titanium retainers. A set of Yella Tera roller-tipped rockers would be a good idea also.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably want an ASP underdrive pulley as well to hit 440 rwhp.

1ssmokinls1

So does my setup sound do-able?

LawmanSS

iTrader: (19)

Smokin...what part of PA?

Mike K.

I think 440 is doable but you need all of the boltons, ASP, Headers, cutout, etc. I would also get it tuned via LS1 edit on a dyno once you have the package installed. Im in the same boat as you regarding the clutch and 10 bolt, I'm hoping my stock clutch will last at least a couple months to give me some time to save once I have my Head and cam package installed.

1ssmokinls1

Philly

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Your fuel system is just fine as is for that power level. Your stock rearend will live as long as you don't make it do any wheelhop, or launch with a shocking hit on it. Your stock clutch will probably survive for awhile, just replace it when it starts to slip.

Now, don't tell anyone on LS1.com that the owner of LS1TECH actually helped you out. Its unheard of for a site admin to do over there

Tony

highgmc

Ls1.com SUCKS! I used to have about 3-4000 posts there, then got serious about modding my car and came here

ls1.com is a bunch of whiners making their cars look pretty and talking about zainoing the car or ricing it out!

1ssmokinls1

haha, thanks for all the replies guys, i appreciate it

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Another admin chiming in...

You need all the boltons and topend parts as noted by others...

You might want to do the clutch at the same time, otherwise you might get stranded. Maybe you can sell your stock one to someone if it's not ruined and it's low mile.

I'd wait on the rearend. The stock 3.42's will hold up unless you like to beat on the car at every lite. Once you put on drag radials it's possible to hurt the rearend once you start hookin' up. ET Streets, fuggedaboutit, rearend is on borrowed time then.