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Retorqing rocker bolts?

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Old 11-21-2007, 12:04 PM
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Default Retorqing rocker bolts?

I was wondering if rocker bolts should ever have the torque checked on them a few thousand miles after the initial 22ft lb torque when installing them?

Thanks
Old 11-21-2007, 12:06 PM
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Not that I am aware of, if in doubt use some blue loctite, or even red.
Old 11-21-2007, 12:36 PM
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You should use medium strength loc-tite (blue) while re-assembling them. After you torque them to 22 ft lb, you shouldn't have to re-check them down the road. Mine have always been fine.
Old 11-21-2007, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfinger911
I was wondering if rocker bolts should ever have the torque checked on them a few thousand miles after the initial 22ft lb torque when installing them?

Thanks
the only way you would have to check them is if you didnt turn over the motor during the install and retorque them then...they will come loose, ask me how I know....forgot to do the driver side that way.

Chad
Old 11-21-2007, 12:57 PM
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Reason I ask is I had my valve covers off the other day and for the hell of it I wanted to see if they were torqued to 22ft lbs. I could turn them further and the torque wrench didnt click. I only tried one, but not knowing if I should continue, I un-did the 1/10 or a turn I started, leaving things as they are.

Just curious thats all. My engine was built by a very reputable shop so I dont doubt their work. I was just curious.

Thanks for the replies.
Old 11-21-2007, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfinger911
Reason I ask is I had my valve covers off the other day and for the hell of it I wanted to see if they were torqued to 22ft lbs. I could turn them further and the torque wrench didnt click. I only tried one, but not knowing if I should continue, I un-did the 1/10 or a turn I started, leaving things as they are.

Just curious thats all. My engine was built by a very reputable shop so I dont doubt their work. I was just curious.

Thanks for the replies.
you have any noise coming from the valve covers? I'd double check them if one was loose thats for sure. last thing you want is what I did. trust me.

Chad
Old 11-21-2007, 01:46 PM
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Hmm. Well, I do have some valvetrain noise. It seems uniform on both sides of the engine.

So, on the LS1, should I just go around, slightly loosen and then retorque them to 22 ft lbs and that's it? Or, do I have to turn the engine over and recheck? Sorry about the newb questions. I am used to working on Supra's and they are totally different.

When torqing the rocker bolts, do I even care which cylinder has the valves closed? Or is it not an issue?

Thanks again everyone.

Last edited by Goldfinger911; 11-21-2007 at 01:54 PM.
Old 11-21-2007, 02:03 PM
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It doesn't matter if the valve are closed or not.

If I were you I'd just take them off, loctite the bolts, torque to 22 ft lbs, turn motor over then recheck they are still at 22 ft lbs. Then you are good to go.
Old 11-21-2007, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
It doesn't matter if the valve are closed or not.

If I were you I'd just take them off, loctite the bolts, torque to 22 ft lbs, turn motor over then recheck they are still at 22 ft lbs. Then you are good to go.

yup thats it. its pretty easy.

Chad
Old 11-21-2007, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
It doesn't matter if the valve are closed or not.
It does. With the valve springs open, bolt pre-load is not correct. Also, aftermarkets like the Yella Terra will be damaged if done this way. Here is the correct procedure for stock rockers, and make sure your torque wrench is calibrated, if not you may be tightening too much without knowing it and could break a bolt.

Old 11-22-2007, 09:00 AM
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^Never done it like that with stock rockers. I'm in a GM school and my instructor is a big LSX guy and he has always said 22 ft lbs no matter if at TDC or not. I guess either way wont hurt as long as you spin the motor over and recheck them.

Now you are definitely right about the Yella Terras. They come with instructions that provide a completely different installation procedure.

Old 11-22-2007, 09:12 AM
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If you torque the rocker when the lifter is on the top of the cam lobe you are fighting it when you tighten the lifter. Torque is a method of measuring bolt preload/stretch and nothing more. Friction is the biggest variable in using torque as a bolt preload measurement. Friction is a function of the threads, any lubricant and then load on the bolt. So as you tighten the bolt and fight the spring, your friction forces increase due to the valve spring and even though the torque wrench will show 22 lb-ft, the actual bolt preload is not correct. Hope this all makes sense.
Old 11-22-2007, 10:15 AM
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Yep. Exactly what I suspected. I will go through the valve-closed sequence and check them out next time I am under the hood. Better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks again guys.

Originally Posted by vettenuts
If you torque the rocker when the lifter is on the top of the cam lobe you are fighting it when you tighten the lifter. Torque is a method of measuring bolt preload/stretch and nothing more. Friction is the biggest variable in using torque as a bolt preload measurement. Friction is a function of the threads, any lubricant and then load on the bolt. So as you tighten the bolt and fight the spring, your friction forces increase due to the valve spring and even though the torque wrench will show 22 lb-ft, the actual bolt preload is not correct. Hope this all makes sense.
Old 11-22-2007, 12:04 PM
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I tried it twice without doing the manual way, always had a bit of uncharacteristic valvetrain noise, like a few weren't really that tight.

The one time I did it the proper way listed in the pic above and the sound change was dramatic. You can HEAR the difference of uniform rockers, at first I attributed the extra bit of noise to the fact I went with double springs, but now the sound is almost in perfect unison the sounds of springs compressing which have gotten a lot quieter after that.




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