400 rwhp???
400 rwhp??? I'm on a quest to 400 rwhp! For a year or so, I've been running around with the setup in my sig, playing with the occasional ricer in my town, but it's time to get serious! With the mods in my sig, and probably a port/polish tb, ASP underdrive pulley and Dyno tune soon, what would it take to make 400 at the wheels? I don't really want to tear down the engine/trans a whole lot, but I also don't want N2O or Forced Induction! I know with heads and cam I need to buy a stall converter, then because I get a higher stall, I gotta get a Trans Cooler, it just seems like the list goes on and on to me!!! And really I don't want to tear down my car, seeings how it's a 35th and has only 7,000 miles!!! Could I get there with the TR Old Man's Cam, or will I still be a little short?
Last edited by 0235SS93; Nov 21, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
tall order you have there. You are going to have to do more than just a cam and head swap. some computer tuning will be invloved and probably a higher stall converter for the larger cam. there are a lot of pepes out ther that you can look at that have 400rwhp look at their sigs. the first thing to do is is figure out the entire package that you will need. next you can take it in steps. the higher stall converter will help quite a bit with tthe fun factor and will be a requirement for a medium to large cam.. good luck
Last edited by mullenh; Nov 21, 2007 at 11:11 PM.
I think if you go with a small to medium cam in the 224-228 range, you should easily crack or be very close to 400whp IMHO. Plus those cams will be great daily drivers with out a pretty good tune. A buddy of mine had an Old Man and made 375 tuned at the wheels on a 02 firehawk (manual). Another has a 226/226 cam and made 365 untuned on a 01 WS6 (manual). Just to give you some ideas. Both were with just about full bolt-ons, I would say go with a higher stall just like everyone else is saying
these guys are right but once you start modding it usally dosent stop you have to upgrade something else to support something else its a vicious cycle but us gear jamen speed freaks love it sounds like you got a good start and have alittle direction on where you want to go with it a cam would get you close to 400 your an a4 so that hurts you alittle bit but iv seen 400 in a a4 cam only before just gota know how to set it up whats wrong with forced induction as long as its set up proper its very reliable power adder as long as you dont get power hungry and keep uping the boost
Well, to me it ain't much to say you've 400 rwhp with FI! But that's just my opion!
I was thinking about a Ported/Polished TB, ASP Underdrive Pulley, a Good Dyno Tune, and this cam with one of Texas Speeds Cam Packages!
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=166&catid=44
Would That Put me around 400rwhp? How do I pick a Torque Converter that will work with this cam, or do I need onw with that cam?
I was thinking about a Ported/Polished TB, ASP Underdrive Pulley, a Good Dyno Tune, and this cam with one of Texas Speeds Cam Packages!
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=166&catid=44
Would That Put me around 400rwhp? How do I pick a Torque Converter that will work with this cam, or do I need onw with that cam?
Last edited by 0235SS93; Nov 22, 2007 at 07:01 AM.
BTW, you have a low mileage classic. I'd keep it mild and let the car shine as a special car. Mild cam and stall will make a huge difference. leave the gears alone.
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Full exhaust
Lid
Ported TB
UD pulley
Dyno Tune
keep it 6 speed/10 bolt
Being that your a 2002, you do indeed have the best chance.
Now mind you, you dont need a huge cam, there are plent of 22X/23X cams out there can hit that # too and have wonderfull low and mid range.
Here's what I've got:
2002 Chevy Camaro SS A4 T-Tops
35th Anniversary
SLP- LT Headers,ORY,Hi-Flo Cats,Blackwing Lid,MAF,Bumper Ram Air,CME
K&N- Fliter
Ebay- Throttle Body Bypass Kit
Here's what I'm planning to buy in the near future:
Ported/Polished Throttle Body
UMI 3-Point Bolt-In SFC's
Trans Cooler to ge with stall (undecided, recommendation welcome!!!)
ASP Underdrive Pulley (including everything needed to make it work)
TR224-114 cam (Kit includes Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs & Thunder Racing 7.400 Pushrods)
Torque Convertor (Please reccomend best/cheapest) or do I even need one?
Good, reliable Dyno Tune
Will all this put me at 400?
2002 Chevy Camaro SS A4 T-Tops
35th Anniversary
SLP- LT Headers,ORY,Hi-Flo Cats,Blackwing Lid,MAF,Bumper Ram Air,CME
K&N- Fliter
Ebay- Throttle Body Bypass Kit
Here's what I'm planning to buy in the near future:
Ported/Polished Throttle Body
UMI 3-Point Bolt-In SFC's
Trans Cooler to ge with stall (undecided, recommendation welcome!!!)
ASP Underdrive Pulley (including everything needed to make it work)
TR224-114 cam (Kit includes Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs & Thunder Racing 7.400 Pushrods)
Torque Convertor (Please reccomend best/cheapest) or do I even need one?
Good, reliable Dyno Tune
Will all this put me at 400?
Last edited by 0235SS93; Nov 22, 2007 at 11:34 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
I can get you there with a relatively mild cam (behavior wise but a monster in power)
It is a custom grind, I call it The "Raptor"
227/230 .643/.609 114+4 LSA
LSK/XFI lobes Comp Cam
Stall, ss3600 Yank or Vig 3200
it has been in a 4000 stall, 9 inch rear auto and dynoed 404rwhp/385 rwtrq, on a M6 it did 412rwhp/388rwtq
It is a custom grind, I call it The "Raptor"
227/230 .643/.609 114+4 LSA
LSK/XFI lobes Comp Cam
Stall, ss3600 Yank or Vig 3200
it has been in a 4000 stall, 9 inch rear auto and dynoed 404rwhp/385 rwtrq, on a M6 it did 412rwhp/388rwtq
your rear will be fine as long as you dont put a sticky tire on it my stock rear took two years of abuse before it finally broke and took slicks and a 4500 side step sprayen outa the hole to finish it off and i still got 5 runs outa it hey pedator i like those specs on that cam but why such high lsa and as far as the 224 good cam for somebody that dosent know what they want or just want a good all around cam that they can slap in and go alota people on here think that its the best cam in the world and tell you to get nothing else but theres alot cams in the low 230 that will pull just as hard down low but still whip *** up top alot that is in the tune too
I say do the heads/cam.. and if you decide to go with the 224 on a 112, you'll notice your car has MORE power off the line than the stock cam. You don't need a stall if you're not trying to set any records.
Mine made 393 with home ported 241 heads, 226 patriot cam, ls6 intake, mid length headers - 2.5" true duals, stock pulley, stock stall.
Mine made 393 with home ported 241 heads, 226 patriot cam, ls6 intake, mid length headers - 2.5" true duals, stock pulley, stock stall.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,875
Likes: 1
From: Naperville, IL
I say do the heads/cam.. and if you decide to go with the 224 on a 112, you'll notice your car has MORE power off the line than the stock cam. You don't need a stall if you're not trying to set any records.
Mine made 393 with home ported 241 heads, 226 patriot cam, ls6 intake, mid length headers - 2.5" true duals, stock pulley, stock stall.
Mine made 393 with home ported 241 heads, 226 patriot cam, ls6 intake, mid length headers - 2.5" true duals, stock pulley, stock stall.
Well, easy to assume, but not everyone is overly concerned with their 1/4 times. 12.0 @ 118 with a stock stall/gear h/c auto is descent enough for me. With the stock tranny without the tranny eating stall.