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Electrical problem. Launching.

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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 05:17 PM
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Default Electrical problem. Launching.

I have A 99 Z28 M6 with minor mods (headers, MSD sp wires, Cut EGR) And Me and My friend with a 04 GTO were going to race today and cant because everytime I try to launch my car just goes balistic and every light on the dash comes on car bogs down and the car almost sounds like it shuts off but dont know for sure. Now I did make sure the ASR was off and the AC was too. I think somewhere some how the car is grounding out or something because everything electrical cuts off. PLEASE HELP ME! thanks.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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The first thing I would check would be the o2's. I had a problem on my old 98 where everytime I got on it, I got a CEL. Found out my pass o2 was shorting out. I'd clear the code, and it would only come back when I got on it hard. Sounds dumb, I did at first, but once it was fixed, never happened again!
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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Well The idiot that had the car before me just cut the back O2 wire at the end of the o2. Dont know if the wire is still there or not. that could very well be the problem though.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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the back o2's shouldn't matter. The front's are all I worried about. Hope you get it figured out.
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Old Dec 1, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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check to see if your battery is loose from the tray. i had this same problem at the track. turns out the battery tray broke. when i would launch, the battery would fall into the accumulator bracket and short out the car, when the positive terminal hit it.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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Go through the main power cable harness thoroughly and your grounds, it sounds like you have a bad connection or ground somewhere in that path.
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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yep the positive cable going to the starter is not the stock cable. acctualy its welding wire. lol but it is laying on the header and has frayed the ruber coating. will fix soon as I can get the time off work. good thing I dont daily drive it. Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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Well fixed the wire but that did not fix the problem. The MAF has been ported and descreened, and we hooked up HP Tuners and used the scaner and saw that the maf sensor was reading pretty much twice the amount of air that it would be on a normal LS1 during heavy acceleration just before it is cutting off and all the gages go crazy. All I know to do is borrow someones Maf and see if that is the problem. Anyone eles have any sugestions?
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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did you ever check the battery to see if it was moving around?
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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Ya battery is good and only about 6 months old so I cant figure this one out. and I know this probly has nothing to do with it but we could only get it to to mess up for hp tuners after we made a left turn. lol
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Safety
Ya battery is good and only about 6 months old so I cant figure this one out. and I know this probly has nothing to do with it but we could only get it to to mess up for hp tuners after we made a left turn. lol
i didn't mean check for voltage. here, read my original post.

Originally Posted by mrr23
check to see if your battery is loose from the tray. i had this same problem at the track. turns out the battery tray broke. when i would launch, the battery would fall into the accumulator bracket and short out the car, when the positive terminal hit it.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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ya, sorry did not word that right I ment it is nice and tight, and dont think it has a short in it.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Hey I had this EXACT problem and it was one of the ground wires on the back of the drivers head. The Eyelet on the end of the terminal was broken off the wire. It would touch under normal driving but when the motor would torque over just slightly during heavy acceleration the wire would not touch anymore. It just so happens that it was the ground for the coil packs and fuel injector system I believe.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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I'd try switching MAF with someone like you said and see if thats the problem. Also, I'd check the grounds and clean them.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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for the love of god help me! anyone lol.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 97BlackLT1TA
Hey I had this EXACT problem and it was one of the ground wires on the back of the drivers head. The Eyelet on the end of the terminal was broken off the wire. It would touch under normal driving but when the motor would torque over just slightly during heavy acceleration the wire would not touch anymore. It just so happens that it was the ground for the coil packs and fuel injector system I believe.
I say to do what he ^ said, he even stated that he had the same problem. Hopefully you figure it out soon.
-Joel
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 97BlackLT1TA
Hey I had this EXACT problem and it was one of the ground wires on the back of the drivers head. The Eyelet on the end of the terminal was broken off the wire. It would touch under normal driving but when the motor would torque over just slightly during heavy acceleration the wire would not touch anymore. It just so happens that it was the ground for the coil packs and fuel injector system I believe.
what is the drivers head?
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 05:18 PM
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the drivers side cylinder head. reach behind it and you will feel 3 maybe more/less wires bolted to the back side of it.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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oh, wasnt thinking clearly this morning when I posted that lol. I feel stupid now. I put the car up on some jack stands and traced every wire I could find and found the problem. The ground strip for the alternator was laying very close to the bolt holding in the positeve wire. I colud see that it had melted the wire a little bit. Car is running strong now thanks.
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