Head & cam swap day 1
#42
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I spun it over for a bit with the coil packs disconnected to build pressure, check for leaks and to make sure the belts were on right. When I plugged the coils in it lit right off. I had to do that open header as my Y pipe is going to take a bit of work. We let it cook off any oils etc from the headers and such. The funny thing is when the T stat opened and the raditor started steaming from all the cleaners I'de used on it. The engine barely smoked so when the radiator started smoking I was surprised!
I let it run idle up to operating temp and then shut it doen for the night. That's one heat cycle on the springs.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
We're finishin ghte exhaust as mentioned and the rear end. I tried to get lazy and take the old and new pinion to a local machine shop to get the bearings removed and re-pressed...they're not sensing the urgency I am though.
I let it run idle up to operating temp and then shut it doen for the night. That's one heat cycle on the springs.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
We're finishin ghte exhaust as mentioned and the rear end. I tried to get lazy and take the old and new pinion to a local machine shop to get the bearings removed and re-pressed...they're not sensing the urgency I am though.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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Nice build ya got going there, congrats on getting it together. How long did it take do do the cam part of the swap? Was this the first time you've swapped a cam? I'm just asking because I'm diving into my first cam swap this month and I'm a little worried
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Hopefully we can get the rear end done today. I took the pinion to a local machine shop and we're going to pick it up this am ready or not.
We'll put the 18" extenstions (race pipes) on the collectors to clean up the O2 readings and see how she runs...in the shop, it dumped snow here last night on my testing grounds!
We'll put the 18" extenstions (race pipes) on the collectors to clean up the O2 readings and see how she runs...in the shop, it dumped snow here last night on my testing grounds!
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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Got everything buttoned up and about 30 miles on it. Running through the SLP CME muffler it sounds wicked nasty, yet almost civilized. I had to put the stock PCM back in though as the new one is having idle issues. The stock one runs great albeit the speedo is off and the rear O2s are not deleted. I got some video witht the exhaust buttoned up I'll try to get on line tonight. I have to go try and make my wife happy now with the honey do's that have been ignored all week.
This project came out great. I am very satisified wiith the attention to detail on everything...and I can be a little picky.
This project came out great. I am very satisified wiith the attention to detail on everything...and I can be a little picky.
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Nice finish to a job well done. I have been following in the shadows. The F14 sounds wicked.
As soon as my flycutting tools and head bolts get here, I am starting on my head swap.
R/
Frat
As soon as my flycutting tools and head bolts get here, I am starting on my head swap.
R/
Frat
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I will be doing my head swap in the next 2 mos. Any corrections, or things to point out that may not be included on the ls1howto to take note of when doing? Any tricks or things need to know offhand with the install?
also, you said you were using a wire brush and drill to clean the head bolt holes? Which one were you using, and where did you get it? I didn't know they made something that thin and long to fit in a hole like that...?
also, you said you were using a wire brush and drill to clean the head bolt holes? Which one were you using, and where did you get it? I didn't know they made something that thin and long to fit in a hole like that...?
Mesuring P to V is the only thing that really isn't covered in detail in the Howto. The trick is to make or get an adjustable pushrod, use a set of weak springs on one hole and measure with dial indicators. Then add your lifter preload to your measurement. I used .075" and came back to 7.400" for my pushrods. With 61cc heads and an F14 cam I had to take the time to do it right, If you're running 67cc heads and a 224ish .580"ish cam you probably wouldn't have to worry. It's not that hard to do once you understand the lifters preload, the rest will become obvious as you do it. Now I wish I would have gone with the .041" gaskets, but running in 28F air I have no detonation problems at 11:1...this might be a differant story with 90F air temps so I probably did the right thing.
Replacing the crank pulley can be a bear too, I got lucky and walked into my local Ace Hardware with my crank bolt and bought one just like it that was one inch longer. It was over $5 for one bolt, but it was well worth it.
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I'm running 5.3 heads that were milled .005" so that's like milling 5.7 heads .040" as far as valve drop goes. I ended up with .100" P to V on the intakes and .180" on the exhausts so no flycutting was needed.
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I've got a set of ETP heads coming my way from MPH. Milled to 11.5:1 to get the DCR right w/ 0.045 cometic gaskets. I just hope everything goes smoothly, and the 11* valves won't play into any PTV issues w/ the current cam. I just may have to pull a couple degrees of timing from my tune to accomodate the colder and hotter temperatures so I don't ping.
And I hope my car sounds as sick as yours! Geezus, you would have every ricer and every german car in the world playing with you here in jersey.
And I hope my car sounds as sick as yours! Geezus, you would have every ricer and every german car in the world playing with you here in jersey.
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This thing makes SOOOOOO much power it's unbelievable. I can't wait to get it on the dyno, but my dual cheeck buttometer says HOLY COW MON!!!
Instant throttle response of gobs of torque followed by a symphony of blaring trumpets and a crescendo of tubular symbols as the tach winds past the 6k mark. But mellow driving is just as sweet. Barely depressing the throttle and upshifting between 2500 and 3000rpm creates another sweet song.
The stock 345hp SS LE is a fast car, this is a weapon!!!
Instant throttle response of gobs of torque followed by a symphony of blaring trumpets and a crescendo of tubular symbols as the tach winds past the 6k mark. But mellow driving is just as sweet. Barely depressing the throttle and upshifting between 2500 and 3000rpm creates another sweet song.
The stock 345hp SS LE is a fast car, this is a weapon!!!
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Congrats on your install, i was just as excited when i did my first cam install its a great feeling and relief when you have finished everything. Get a vid of that beast on the dyno.
-Joel
-Joel