When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I remember reading that the stock LS1 bottom end is good for 7,000rpm if you want to live brave. My F14 cam has a power band of 2,600-7,000. Right now I've got the rev limit set at 6,800 and it pulls to that very quickly.
With a good valve train, what is a good setting for rev limit for a 6spd street car?
You know that just because a company says that doesn't mean that's where it'll rev, right?
What do you mean? I'm talking about where the rod bolts will safely hold together and where most motors with stock rocker arms have survived. I realize some motors may hang on while others grenade for no apparent reason. So, yes, I know I'm playing with fire, I plan on setting the normal driving rev limit at around 6,600, but when I dyno or maybe for a video clip or a run down 1320 I'd like to risk it and get that last bit of power out of it. Where do most builders feel that the stock 02 LS1 bottom ends will safely spin (on occasion).
So with PRC gold dual springs, titanium retainers, chromally and pushrods, where would you set your redline for testing and tuning...and then where would you set it for street driving and if someone else may drive your car?
I believe what he was trying to say is, if your cars power peaks prior to 7K theres no need to take that far if its already dropping by then. With my MS3 i make peak power around 6400-6500rpms, and i shift at 6700rpms right as the power begins to die down. Stock bottom end, i guess it all depends on the car. 2001-2002 had the stronger rod bolts, but that doesn't mean that it wont take a **** on you. Maybe the first time you take it to 7K it craps out, or maybe you take it to 7K for thousands of miles and nothing happens. I have seen guys post on here about taking it to 7K and never have a problem. If your making power way up there i say go for it, if not don't risk it and shift sooner.
-Joel
I believe what he was trying to say is, if your cars power peaks prior to 7K theres no need to take that far if its already dropping by then. With my MS3 i make peak power around 6400-6500rpms, and i shift at 6700rpms right as the power begins to die down. Stock bottom end, i guess it all depends on the car. 2001-2002 had the stronger rod bolts, but that doesn't mean that it wont take a **** on you. Maybe the first time you take it to 7K it craps out, or maybe you take it to 7K for thousands of miles and nothing happens. I have seen guys post on here about taking it to 7K and never have a problem. If your making power way up there i say go for it, if not don't risk it and shift sooner.
-Joel
It's an M6 car so it's up to me where I shift. Tight now with the limiter set at 6,800 and it spins ip so fast that that I have no doubt it's still making power at 7,000. I need a dyno graph to see what its reallt doing though.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.