Is this a pretty good cam Cam Guru's
12-16-2007, 01:22 AM
#41
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That is what he seemed to be looking for, so that is what he got. FYI it would actually carry very well to about 5900 before it really nosed over. If it helps your line of thinking my 355 LT-1 cam is 282/288 adv. dur., 253/259 @.050" dur., .640"/.640" lift, on a 108* + 4*. 
Last edited by 1997bird; 12-16-2007 at 10:55 PM.
12-16-2007, 10:31 AM
#42
Your pretty close 5400-5500 rpm peak. That is what he seemed to be looking for, so that is what he got. FWI it would actually carry very well to about 5900 before it really nosed over. If it helps your line of thinking my 355 LT-1 cam is 282/288 adv. dur., 253/259 @.050" dur., .640"/.640" lift, on a 108* + 4*.
That is what he seemed to be looking for, so that is what he got. FWI it would actually carry very well to about 5900 before it really nosed over. If it helps your line of thinking my 355 LT-1 cam is 282/288 adv. dur., 253/259 @.050" dur., .640"/.640" lift, on a 108* + 4*.
12-16-2007, 11:29 AM
#43
Your taking what I'm saying out of context. You don't but a cam for part throttle driving you buy it for more power. You don't buy a cam to 1/4 throttle it around and if you do your an idiot. I don't have to go WOT to accelerate nobody does. Is that what you think big cam cars are like?
I can tell you have never had a car with a larger type cam in it, either that or your trying to defend your decision to run a small cam. And I've driven auto's before I believe everybody has so I know what they are like and how they work.
And it seems to me the OP had already decided what he was going to run before he even started this thread.
I can tell you have never had a car with a larger type cam in it, either that or your trying to defend your decision to run a small cam. And I've driven auto's before I believe everybody has so I know what they are like and how they work.
And it seems to me the OP had already decided what he was going to run before he even started this thread.
A mild cam can be just the ticket for a daily driven car that needs good manners and excellent fuel economy. At -10 overlap, it should idle well and give excellent throttle response, while still boosting mid and upper-end performance.
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
Man, lots of small cam haters here. Some people just aren't that crazy about 3500 stalls and 4.10 gears.
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
Does anyone really need to explain a scenario where you could use power below 3000rpm? Have you ever done a data log while doing any normal driving? Most of is really spend 90% or more of the time at less than 3000rpm and less than 25% throttle. Why not choose performance parts that actually work when you are driving regularly?
That was exactly the response I expected. If you are ok with going WOT everytime you want to accelerate, dropping down a couple gears and sucking a bunch of gas, so be it. Since the OP is getting 30+ mpg now, I'm almost certain that is not the way he's using it.
This board is full of people who say "too small" without even taking the application in mind. Since his application is a daily driver, with no gears or stall, real street and little or no track use mentioned, the cam he proposed is a great starting point. He might decide that bigger is better someday, but for what the intended use will be, he's done a much better job hitting the mark than 90% of the people who start a cam thread.
As for 25% throttle - try tiptoeing into the gas sometime in an auto and see how far you can go with it. The same amount of throttle that holds a steady 65mph can also accelerate the car at a reasonable speed and add many miles before the next refueling.
You may not care, but the person starting the thread did.
This board is full of people who say "too small" without even taking the application in mind. Since his application is a daily driver, with no gears or stall, real street and little or no track use mentioned, the cam he proposed is a great starting point. He might decide that bigger is better someday, but for what the intended use will be, he's done a much better job hitting the mark than 90% of the people who start a cam thread.
As for 25% throttle - try tiptoeing into the gas sometime in an auto and see how far you can go with it. The same amount of throttle that holds a steady 65mph can also accelerate the car at a reasonable speed and add many miles before the next refueling.
You may not care, but the person starting the thread did.
Again, it's all about how you are going to use the car, which is why there are so many choices when it comes to a cam. If your car rarely sees the high side of 5500, it doesn't make sense to install a cam that makes 10-15 HP more at 6000. I'm sure you are aware that cams are all about compromise, and in this case a larger cam is definitely going to trade that torque on the low end for seldom used top-end power.
Since the car in question is an A4, it's also best to keep the power peak at lower RPM's to extend the life of the tranny. Most of the 224 cams in use really peak above 6000 and should be shifted at 6300-6500 (depending on the VE's), but that can shorten the life of the trans without some internal mods.
You are correct, my LS1 is stock for now, and my previous experience with a cam was a Gen I 350 with a comp 218/218 110+4 in my daily driver. That car was beaten daily for 6 years, got 15-16 miles per gallon, started right up in sub-zero weather, had excellent torque off idle and carried the power up to 6000rpm. It was all the cam I needed and no more.
I was going to find an example, but you saved me some time
I only wish that graph went lower so we could see what this car was doing at 2000rpm. As a matter of fact, I don't even need to tell you what I think of that cam, again - you saved me the trouble. (bold mine)
Originally Posted by 98RedZone
Changing a cam to make it sound different is a waste. Making 380+rwtq from 3k-5k is definitely worth a swap.
+1000
12-16-2007, 12:21 PM
#44
If it was as simple as sound or power then getting one for sound would be a waste. When you get power and a great sound why not? I agree that having the low end or the 380 +rwtq from 3k to 5k would be nice, if it didn't die in the early 5k range. Do what you want. Maybe after you run the little cam for a little while you'll realize what I'm talking about.
12-16-2007, 01:00 PM
#45
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If it was as simple as sound or power then getting one for sound would be a waste. When you get power and a great sound why not? I agree that having the low end or the 380 +rwtq from 3k to 5k would be nice, if it didn't die in the early 5k range. Do what you want. Maybe after you run the little cam for a little while you'll realize what I'm talking about.
12-17-2007, 01:13 AM
#46
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I'm thinking of a cam as part of my winter projects. This car is DD in the summer and milage is somewhat important. Right now I have a LS6 intake and also over the winter I plan on LT's and a stall. So the cam I'm thinkin of is a Comp 216/220 .525/.532 on a 114. If it will work out good, what's a good matchin stall? Thanks guys.
That cam was the S*** in the beguinings of LS1 modding. Needs very little tuning BTW. It is also capable of 400 rwhp with heads on M6 and a bit less on A4, so it is not as "weak" as poeple make it out to be.
As mentionned by Hamertime, being a A4, you need to understand that reving past 6100 will shorten tranny life and a rebuild will materialize fast.
So my advice is sit down and evaluate carefully what your TOTAL plans and budget are before jumping on any cam swap. One thing leads to another and certain cams need a long list of other mods to work at potential levels.