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Rebuilding an LS1 (DIY). What do I need to know?

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Old 12-12-2007, 04:17 PM
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Default Rebuilding an LS1 (DIY). What do I need to know?

I'm looking forward to swapping a beasty LS1 into my car. I've found a cheap longblock but it needs a rebuild.

Where's a good place to start?

I'm assuming I'll need a rebuild kit. Which one should I get for reliability, strength and value? Where's the best place to pick it up?

I've noticed that some kits come with pistons. Do I need new pistons for a rebuild? Which piston's do I want? There seem to several styles (flat, dome, dish) and several materials (Hypereutectic aluminum, Forged aluminum, Cast aluminum).

I'll probably need some sort of write-up or guide to follow too. What is a good book/website/thread for this?

I've searched around quite a bit, but most of the threads are have small amounts of very specific information. If possible, compiling all the info here (for everyone to reference) would be really helpful.

Thanks for the help!
Old 12-12-2007, 05:27 PM
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So I just talked to a guy at summit (seems to be a good place to start).

He told me they don't even offer any rebuild kits for the LS1 because it's still so new, so in order to get what I need, each part will have to be ordered individually. This seems a little crazy but oh well.

He also explained a little about what I need although it would be great if somebody could verify I've got it correct.

So apparently the pistons need to be replaced only if the cylinder's are in not-so-good condition, meaning there is rust inside and the scoring on the cylinder walls is no longer present. If this is the case, new pistons and rings are required, as well as resurfacing of the cylinder walls. Additionally, if the cylinder is resurfaced, larger pistons will be required to make up for the increased size of the cylinders. The original bore seems to be 4.000 inches.

Similarly, the crank needs to be examined. If the crank shows any signs of rust or heat-stress (blueing), it needs to be restored. And if the crank is restored the same situation applies and the main bearings need to be undersized appropriately.

The guy from summit also gave me a price on pistons so I would have an idea of cost. They are ~$70 each. This seems pretty high to me!

He also told me about one other important factor in determining cost. The piston rings can either be cast-metal or moly. Moly is much stronger, but the difference is close to $200 for a kit! This seems huge for just a material difference of the rings.
Old 12-12-2007, 05:36 PM
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Find someone local who has done this before (assembled a shortblock) and have them show you how.
We have a local crankshaft shop here. That's where I take all my cranks. A crankshaft shop can turn the crank .010, .020, or .030 under and supply you with new main and rod bearings.
Depending on your budget and desires, you may want to have the block bored out slightly oversize and then have the machine shop hone it for proper piston/cylinder clearance for your new pistons.
You may also want to have the block line-honed and decked.
So many variables, really depends on what you're looking to do with the engine. NA, sprayed, FI?
Old 12-12-2007, 08:30 PM
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I would suggest picking or reading two of the Gen III books that have been published.
1) How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s by Well Handzel
2) Chevy LS1/LS6 performance by Christopher Endres
or
any of the later books. They would be a good starting point and can give you many details of what you are about to get into. You might find these in public library's.

Research on internet on engine building. But to get a step by step guide on a forum is not a very good place to start. If you have specific questions, forum are a good place. There is some much information on the subject, the library is full of books.
Old 12-12-2007, 08:50 PM
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Good suggestions. I'll let you know what I end up doing.

FYI, I'm going NA.
Old 12-12-2007, 09:02 PM
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have you actually bought the longblock? If not, I'd suggest starting with a complete motor. The cheap long block might end up being more costly in terms of money and time spent putting it together .Futhermore, swapping the ls1 into your car will consume a lot time and $$$

To answer your question, the two books above are great. I have read them both. You should also get the LS1 manual or tech book (not sure what they call it) but its has torques numbers and how tos.

You also need to have the correct tools to properly assemble the engine.

Once your tools and parts are gathered, you also need to have tolerance values and torque numbers etc.

All the best
Old 12-13-2007, 09:56 PM
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a ls1 bore isn't 4"
Old 12-13-2007, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Formulaws6
a ls1 bore isn't 4"
What is it?
Old 12-13-2007, 11:21 PM
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the ls2 is 4 in

the ls1 is 3.89x
Old 12-13-2007, 11:32 PM
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GM High Tech Performance magazine did a four or five month detailed build. Maybe you could get the back issues or find the articles on their website.
Old 12-13-2007, 11:41 PM
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no rebuild kits for the ls1 because it's so new??? the motor is 10 years old! how's that "so new"??? i just find that hard to believe that there are no rebuild kits. but i wouldn't know for sure cuz i haven't looked.
Old 12-14-2007, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by steelhorses
no rebuild kits for the ls1 because it's so new??? the motor is 10 years old! how's that "so new"??? i just find that hard to believe that there are no rebuild kits. but i wouldn't know for sure cuz i haven't looked.
I also thought it was unusual, but call summit and see for yourself!
Old 12-16-2007, 12:11 AM
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here you go bud... I dont know that much about it but i found this. i think it might help some. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rebuildkitschevy.html



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