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rod bolts?

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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 03:15 AM
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Default rod bolts?

so im doing my cam soon and im planing porting and polishing the heads and maybe some forged pistons but when i do the cam i plan on raising the redline to around 6700 or 6800 and want to know if stock crank/rods can take this kinda of abuse(plus 100 of n20)
maybe if i upgrade my rod bolts or should i just do the entire bottem end and be done with it(hymm 383 comes to mine )
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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The stock crank will be fine, but rod bolts would definitely be a good idea.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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if your tossing or planning on tossing some pistons in, its essentially free labor to put rod bolts in, if I had the opportunity to toss some in, even if im not going over 6.5k, id still do it for cheap insurance.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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i would deffenatly toss some rod bolts in there. its already out so why not
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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rod bolts for the damn win far and wide. stock ones SUCK period end of the debate
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Change the bearings while you're in there. I didn't when I swapped my rod bolts out and I now have a slight knock as a result.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Thorny
Change the bearings while you're in there. I didn't when I swapped my rod bolts out and I now have a slight knock as a result.
i really dont think your changing rod bolts caused your rod knock,, and new bearings would not have fixxed a bad or out of round crank journal
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_lt4
i really dont think your changing rod bolts caused your rod knock,, and new bearings would not have fixxed a bad or out of round crank journal
Well, the motor had no knock before the swap, and now there is a slight knock under load. I did some research and it turns out the new rod bolts can load the bearing differently than the old ones did resulting in a big damn headache. Thats the reason why ARP recommends against just swapping out bolts without checking clearances. I thought it sounded like b.s. too until I heard my car knocking on the dyno a couple weeks ago.

Some people get away with it, others don't. I'm not the only one that's had this happen and it's pretty risky knowing you have to tear apart you're bottom end again if it doesn't work.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Thorny
Well, the motor had no knock before the swap, and now there is a slight knock under load. I did some research and it turns out the new rod bolts can load the bearing differently than the old ones did resulting in a big damn headache. Thats the reason why ARP recommends against just swapping out bolts without checking clearances. I thought it sounded like b.s. too until I heard my car knocking on the dyno a couple weeks ago.

Some people get away with it, others don't. I'm not the only one that's had this happen and it's pretty risky knowing you have to tear apart you're bottom end again if it doesn't work.
I have heard this also. Katech's are pricey but not supposed to have this problem. I just can't find any though. They are on backorder everywhwere I have looked.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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I would do it I think it was what cause a slew of prob on my cam only ms4 car. Hind sight is 20/20
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