View Poll Results: What would you do with your money??
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What would you do with $6000...?
Supporting mods don't necessarily mean....replace the **** that will break. It also means the proper torque converter for whatever setup you go with, and a proper suspension setup that way you can actually utilize your newfound power.
Are you against Nitrous??? Why not, as I previously posted, a forged 347 (very inexpensive these days) and a good hit of the juice. Reliable and should come in under your budget.....and you can still afford some of these supporting mods.
Are you against Nitrous??? Why not, as I previously posted, a forged 347 (very inexpensive these days) and a good hit of the juice. Reliable and should come in under your budget.....and you can still afford some of these supporting mods.
Well he said he has a trans beeing built for it. So... he'll be ok for a while. The auto is easier on the rear than the stick. He has headers. He can upgrade the suspension as he goes, it's not a big deal. I'd go for LSX and be done with it. The smaller the bore the better/more money you need to put into the top end to make power. And even then there is no substitution for displacemnt. If you have time to wait for the LSX block to be available the 4" stroke with the 4.185 bore will rule. Shifting a 440 at 7000 rpms will scare the **** out of anyone near you. Absolute terror!
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Dec 29, 2007 at 06:22 PM.
if your not gonna turn it into a complete drag car, i say go with a h/c setup!! especially you probably can get your h/c setup and tuning for maybe around 4,000, and you still would have cash leftover for other upgrades like suspension, and tranny?
having the suspension and drivetrain to have fun is priceless. Your already getting a trans so I'd say rebuild your motor with the stock crank, throw some rods/pistons and a good H/C/I package on it with all supporting mods, and spray it and thats easy 10s, possibly on motor with a nasty package. Or you could do the same with the bottom end, you wouldnt have to go wild with the heads, and do a FI set up. Well into the 10s that way...
Well he said he has a trans beeing built for it. So... he'll be ok for a while. The auto is easier on the rear than the stick. He has headers. He can upgrade the suspension as he goes, it's not a big deal. I'd go for LSX and be done with it. The smaller the bore the better/more money you need to put into the top end to make power. And even then there is no substitution for displacemnt. If you have time to wait for the LSX block to be available the 4" stroke with the 4.185 bore will rule. Shifting a 440 at 7000 rpms will scare the **** out of anyone near you. Absolute terror!
I have seen the 454 LSX....but what is this 440 you are talking about?
The block is the Gm bowtie LSX iron block. It comes as a certain bore and you have it it finished how ever you want. The usual is 4.185 bore. Then you need to stuff it with guts. (Rotating assemebly) My preferences is higher RPMS thats why I like the 4" stroke. The bigger the stroke the less the rpms. SO if you take a 4" stroke crank and do the math you come up with 440 cu inches on 4.185 bore. I then tried to select some of the better componants for the guts, without breaking the bank. Callies Dragonnslayer crank from TSP is a good price. The Howards forged rods are thought of very well and they have a lighter set than their usual at about 850 (you need to talk to W2W about them and then you need pistons and rings. When I was on he phone with W2W we figured 1000 for pistons and rings or agian Texas Speed has great prices you could soley shop with them. Voila a 440 cu in short block that should be all you ever need. **** the power adders! Finish it off with PRC LS7 heads and you've got at least 550 rwhp.
The 454 is just a longer stroke
The 454 is just a longer stroke
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Verdad Gallardo The block is the Gm bowtie LSX iron block. It comes as a certain bore and you have it it finished how ever you want. The usual is 4.185 bore. Then you need to stuff it with guts. (Rotating assemebly) My preferences is higher RPMS thats why I like the 4" stroke. The bigger the stroke the less the rpms. SO if you take a 4" stroke crank and do the math you come up with 440 cu inches on 4.185 bore. I then tried to select some of the better componants for the guts, without breaking the bank. Callies Dragonnslayer crank from TSP is a good price. The Howards forged rods are thought of very well and they have a lighter set than their usual at about 850 (you need to talk to W2W about them and then you need pistons and rings. When I was on he phone with W2W we figured 1000 for pistons and rings or agian Texas Speed has great prices you could soley shop with them. Voila a 440 cu in short block that should be all you ever need. **** the power adders! Finish it off with PRC LS7 heads and you've got at least 550 rwhp.
The 454 is just a longer stroke
The 454 is just a longer stroke
I'm around 13k on my build. No need for any further power upgrades, n2o, s/c or turbo. Just good old n/a tire shredding hp
has anyone said that 6k is no where near enough for a 402/408? you have to take in account the fuel system, transmission, suspension, rearend, etc.
I'm looking right around 13k for a iron block 408 from texas speed w/ a built t56, twin disk clutch, fuel system to support the 408 and a dual stage nitrous kit....
Chad
I'm looking right around 13k for a iron block 408 from texas speed w/ a built t56, twin disk clutch, fuel system to support the 408 and a dual stage nitrous kit....
Chad
Hell, I'm looking at just under that for a complete, 347 build! Using the stock crank... when you really think about ALL the supporting mods, it will be more than just a little over 6k....
$5499.99 will buy you a nice APS twin turbo kit!
Who wouldn't want a set of twins
You already have a bullet proof tranny coming...
Grab some 60lb injectors and a racetronix kit with a little more cash, pay the 4-500 for a spot on tune and have fun whooping *** with stock like drivability and APS reliability.
If you decide to push it and pop the bottom end, grab some pistons, rods, the stock crank, forge that bitch, up the fuel system and boost it to 700+ on pump.
OR
A nice cam and heads can be had for 1500-2000 might keep you happy for now and save the rest till you can afford to really go BIG on power.
Who wouldn't want a set of twins
You already have a bullet proof tranny coming...
Grab some 60lb injectors and a racetronix kit with a little more cash, pay the 4-500 for a spot on tune and have fun whooping *** with stock like drivability and APS reliability.
If you decide to push it and pop the bottom end, grab some pistons, rods, the stock crank, forge that bitch, up the fuel system and boost it to 700+ on pump.
OR
A nice cam and heads can be had for 1500-2000 might keep you happy for now and save the rest till you can afford to really go BIG on power.
Thats why you dont do it all at once. This is a weekend warrior car for him. He doesnt need all the suspension right away and so called supporting mods. It all depends on the final goals. If the car is keeper and he wants 500+ the bigger cubes the better. You can buy a 427 long block from Rapid for 12,999 I think.
Like I said before, I am not limited to $6000. That is just what I have back for it as of right now. I was thinking about just buying the block for now, and as I rake in more cash, buy the rest. Piece by piece I would build a monster!