Hell if you dont mind saving a little longer why not go all out with at least a 427-454 along with some badass ET or Trick Flow Heads

 

I dont think you'll find a better head than the ported versions of the LS7 from TSP or LPE for a LSX 427-454.

 

What heads are you going to be running on that beast of yours?

and do you have any dyno #'s with your current set-up?
(didnt see any in your sig)

 

PRC ls7 heads. My numbers were 439/377(mustang dyno). I sold the long block to someone with a stock rear so it will be good to see how much power he puts down. He should be close to 500rwhp on a dynojet.

The real good thing in my case is the fact they are going to engine dyno it for me. I can then measure my loss on a chassis dyno and know where I was.

 

Sell your motor, build a forged 408, 9", and complete suspension.

 

That is sorta the route I am leaning toward...

 

LS block at 96k is fine but i would go 408 or even get a crate ls6 for around 6k!

 

Your not going to get all that with 6k. Decide on how much power you want and build your engine accordingly.

9"= $2400 408= $4000 for the sb, suspension is going to be about $1500-2000 when it's all said and done. Got heads for that 408? A 408 long block is $6599 from the least expensive sponsor.

Set a goal, have a budget, research it.

 

Thanks 99blancoSS for your help so far with this thread. I know that just $6000 won't get me everything...I wish I could change the thread title now... I am willing to wait to get the setup that will make me happy. The problem is, I don't know which one is more practical for me. I love driving my car ALL THE TIME, but I also love going really fast. The problem is, the faster I go, the less drivable the car becomes...

 

It doesnt need to be less drivable. Thats what cubic inches are for. The more power you try and get out of smaller cubes the more radical the build becomes. If you want 550+ in a dependable setup I think you need to increase the cubes and take that running on the ragged edge out of the equation. A 408 is great. But n/a it isnt going to produce the torque and hp as easily as a 427-454.

I've changed my setup a little already. I didnt like the gas ported pistons in the one I was going with so I'm going to have built what I want, and not just take what was there out of haste.

I'm looking at a ls7 440 or 457. A 427 is probably all I really need but everyone and their brother has one now. I need to be different. I'm just going n/a and looking for as close to 600 rwhp with my car as I can.

I'm no expert by any means. Please do your own research as well and speak to different builders to get different views.

 

id buy lots of brew and the service of a hott clean hooker for as much time as i could get her. lol

 

I bought a procharger with my 6000 dollars, although Im thinking I should have bought a 402 or 408 and sprayed the **** out of it. I think it would have been cheaper.

 

I thought about a pro-charger but there are so many hidden costs that I felt I could get out of it cheaper by going with a whole new motor. Great plan and would have worked if I didnt get carried away with the new motor. Original plan was an L92 combo but somewhere along the line I lost track of it and wound up looking to put ls7 heads on top of the biggest bore and stroke I could find.

 

HAHA I know this is what I will do too. I will make up my mind to go mild, then I will want to go bigger, faster, better....and my wallet will be more than empty and my car will never get done! lol

 

Don't sell a high mileage GenIII short. It's a 6 bolt so it can take the punishment and high mileage and still keep on "tickin" just like a Timex. With 6K I think I'd go Turbo, but a big cam, shaft mounts, CNCed heads and headers controlled by a reflashed PCM with money left over is a serious temptation.

 

Believe me Im finding that out more then ever now.:bang Damn little parts that I need with the procharger are nickel and diming me to death. I pretty much bought the procharger without thinking hey, what else do I need to go with this so I dont blow my motor up. Injectors, fuel pump, gauges, etc...

 

WHat ever you do at least make sure you put in a forged assembly, then you can go any route, turbo, blower, or nitrous. I am doing the chassis this winter, last winter was heads, cam, stall, gears, nitrous. Now I am at the limits of stock internals for another year. But don't forget supporting mods, a stock 10 bolt won't last long with any of the choices you make, they won't let you on the track without a cage once you dip into low 11's or 10's. And a 4l60e will only last so long making the kind of power you want. Good luck on your decision and keep us informed!

 

about to pick up my 7k mod project. Had TEA stage 2.5 heads, Futural F13 Cam, LS6 intake, Ported SLP LS6 oilpump, Pacesetters LT, TSP True Duals, AC Delete, LS2 Timing Chain, Bilstien shocks all around, 1" drop, new front and rear sway bars, new rotors and brakes.
Oh and a rebuilt T56 will all new stronger internals.

All in a 98 Z package