I am planning to add some power to the mix this spring. I want to know what you guys think I should do with my money. I already have an FLT Level 5 transmission coming soon, so I need to know what you would do with my engine...

I have a '98 LS1 with 96,000 miles on it. I was originally going to do an aggressive head/cam swap, but then I got to thinking. Should I really put $5000 or so onto a block that has 96,000 miles?

My goals are not too far fetched. I would like to have an engine combo that will get me into the 10's and that I can run on pump gas (we have up to 94 octane here). I will be driving this car on the weekends and sometimes duing the week, so drivability is a must. Here are the options I am exploring:

1. Keep stock block, and do heads/cam

2. Swap engine to a 402

3. Swap engine to 408

4. Swap engine to 454

I want to do it right the first time, and being that I only have around $6000 as of now...I am willing to wait to save up some more money if the more expensive route would be better in the long run. If you could please vote, and give your opinions/experiences that would be great!!

I have posted on here plenty of times before and you guys have been more than helpful! Let's keep that up!

Thanks again guys, and Happy New Year!

-James

 

a 408 with tsp/afr heads and good valvetrain will not leave you dissapointed
or do the iron block and a decent shot of n20 and go from there

 

Sell the stock engine-tranny combo and you have 9k to work with.

I would probably follow lead foot's lead from there.

If you decide to keep the stock block you could always throw some forged rods/pistons and then FI it.

 

i agree on the fi route. get a d1 kit with 60 lb injectors and a dual intank pump kit and put it on your stock setup and keep it on low boost,7-8 psi or so. great driveability and plenty of potential for later down the road with a forged shortblock. oh yeah if you don't already have a good rear in the car yet plan on getting one if you hit the track on good tires.

 

This is what I was thinking also. Either way you go you are going to have to upgrade your rear if you go to the track. I would set aside around $2,500 for that unless you can find a good used 12-Bolt, 9" or Dana 60. Good luck.

 

This poll is needs a other option, for getting a divorce. Then I would like to build on my garage and maybe work on getting an engine dyno.

 

Procharger.

 

Interesting dilema here. If your looking for 10's n/a in a weekend warrior car your going to want all the bore you can get. The way it was put to me was basicaly bore =hp stroke=torque. I wanted all the bore I could get with a 4" stroke but ended up with a 4.1 stroke due to the availbility of the lSX block. $5999 was the cost of my new short block alone. BUT to put an avg to less than avg top end on it would be a crime so I went with ls7 heads.

Bore and the top end will make your power(and cam selection). People get 500 rwhp out of a 346 because they put all the money they can/need to into the top end. Heads, valves, valve springs, intake, lifters and cam selection are as important as the short block.

TO do it right you need to set a power goal not just a time slip. 10sec can be had with the 346 if done right. Your current long block isnt worth **** so dont look at it for money to get you to the next step, wont happen.

It all depends on how quick you want your build to be completed. 6k will get you an LSX short block of anywhere from 427-454 cu in. That will be the base you need. Then you need to save for heads, but you can throw on some cheap heads to drive it until you get the heads and top end that you want. Heck you could even use your stock heads on it, I believe they will work someone correct me if I'm wrong, and intake until you can add to it. That would be my route.

I would not put money into your current long block. I would go as big as I can on the short block and add the rest as time and money permits. I'm at 13k with my new build. LSX 451 w/PRC LS7 heads. Estimates are 540-600+ rwhp from the builder, we'll see. They are going to engine dyno it for me, he said 750 should be well within reach.

You drop a sc/ on you stock setup and your behind the 8 ball already. 550 rwhp is the most you cant get without total destruction and then your on limited time at that. Big FI cars arent the most dependable either. Weather conditions, crappy gas, slipping belts, splitting hoses.. all that stuff comes into play with FI.

Its just like a house. Foundation first. Bottom end , top end then power adder.
I vote 454 or 440 or 427 or 451... bore x bore x stroke x # of cylinders x .7854
4.185 is the real max bore on the LSX block.

 

Go with the 408

 

Fix my car.

 

Or you cold go with an L92 combo and get the whole long block now. It all depends on your real goals and habits. DO you find that once you get finished you want to do more?
You might even be able to pull off an ls7 combo with less expensive heads. You do have a few options.

A 402 and my nitrous kit will get you into the 10's as well.

 

Build a forged 347 and put the squeeze on it. Should be well within your buget and could run 9's if need be.

 

It never fails...with every car I buy, I always want to do more ... That is why it is sooo hard to settle for something that I might want to upgrade later. I have heard from MANY people that a 408 stroker will have good street manners, and give me the power I want.

As far as a RWHP # ..... lets say > 500 .... Is this goal realistic?

REMEMBER I am not limited to $6000. I have no problem waiting a little while to get what I want...

 

>500 is easy enough with a 408. Then with the proper suspension and rear your into the 10's. Thing is everyone has a 402 or 408 these days, is that ok with you? You could do and L92 418 and have a badass setup for your budget. Nothing against the 402 or 408 at all but if your looking for something different then it's a good way to go. W2W and I talked about it as well as an LS7 427. I dont like the L92 427, its under powered for the "427", the 4.125 bore is putting out much better results.

Really though if you want the king of the hill the LSX is the way to go. $1899 for the block form SDPC. Rotating assembly for like 3175 from W2W and have the bore on the block finished how ever you want. 4.185 is the realistic biggest bore you can go on it.
Throw a 4" stroke into the 4.185 bore and you got 7000 rpm 440 cu inches of shear terror on the streets. That was going to be my combo but the LSX block is on back order til like March so I had to opt for plan B. SDPC had a 451 SB on the shelf waiting for a home. 4.185 bore with the 4.1 stroke. Lowers my rpms a little but I can live with it..lol
If I dont like it I can always sell the rotating assembly and throw in the 4" stroke for the 440 but rumor has it I'm going to be in the 600 rwhp range so I might be able to live with it

just one man's opinion though

 

Heads/cam rear end and full suspension

 

put the first $4000 in an IRA for 2007 or put the first $5000 in an IRA for 08. but then again, i am different...

 

I would just heads and cam it for now and when the bottom end goes then you can throw a new bottom end in it. If you get the LS6 heads when you decide to go bigger displacement you can just send them back to have them reworked. That's what I would do.

 

Seems like everyone is going for big motors but forgetting about supporting mods

 

Not a bad idea.....but do the Roth instead....

 

Anyways, back on topic. I am not sure if I want to put time and effort into a block that has 96,000 miles on it. Chances are, that if I were to do that, and my bottom end went, I wouldn't want to put the same head/cam into the new setup.

As for supporting mods, I am the kind of person that doesn't fix anything until it breaks. I will roll the dice on the rear, when it breaks, I will replace it.