Out the bottom with no lift?
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Out the bottom with no lift? I saw a post awhile back that lifted the body instead of the engine. Since I don't have a lift, would that be easier than pulling the engine out of the bay?
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Half the engine is underneath the windshield. I've done it both ways and dropping the engine and lifting the car is wwwaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy easier. Plus depending on what your going to do, you can take the engine out with intake, headers, tranny and and most accessories still bolted on = a lot less work.
i took mine out bottom by lifting the car with an engine hoist. i've never pulled motor out top but i don't think i want to by looking at it, bottom seems way easier. just make sure you have plenty of room to get car up high enough. and like bigbirdta said, you can leave about everything on the motor which makes it much easier.
Either way, you still need a hoist. You still have to lift the body high enough to pull the motor from the bottom, and the only way to get that high is with a hoist or a lift.
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From: Southeastern IL
Well, I can get a hoist, if I don't already have acces to one.
What all do you unbolt to lift the car? Where do you stick the hooks?
Do you just chalk the tires and leave them on the ground?
Thanks, guys. If anyone knows where those pics are, I'd like to see them.
What all do you unbolt to lift the car? Where do you stick the hooks?
Do you just chalk the tires and leave them on the ground?
Thanks, guys. If anyone knows where those pics are, I'd like to see them.
there are several things that need unhooked and unbolted to drop the engine. I just did an LS6 swap into my car, but we used a forklift to lift the front of the car. We used a book about F-body modifications for the steps to drop the engine. I can't remember the title of it, but you could probably PM bowtieman81 and ask him as he owns the book. Sorry I couldn't help more. Good luck!
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If you do a search, someone detailed it very well last year or two years ago, with pictures etc.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/354351-how-remove-engine-bottom.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/433240-started-install-my-ls2-402-slp-w-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/354351-how-remove-engine-bottom.html
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On The Tree
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Here's a few pics to help you out.
1) Here's how I set up the hoist. There's no need for hooks, just a good pair of chains and Grade-8 bolts with washers. Wrap the crossbrace with cardboard or something to keep the chains from damaging the paint.
2) Disconnect:
- Drain motor oil, tranny fluid and radiator.
- 2 front Brake lines from ABS block, get the lines off the retainer on the driver side and zip-tie them away from anything they might tangle with.
- Remove radiator and fans assembly.
- Exhaust from headers at collectors.
- Fuel lines.
- Steering knuckle.
- Shifter boot and ****. (you can leave the shifter in place).
- All top-end sensors (MAF, IAC, Injector harness, MAP, Vaccum lines in back of manifold, Throttle cable, etc).
- Wires going to ground bolts on each side of engine block, Starter wires, Crank Pos sensor behind starter
- Disconnect all wires going to both sides of tranny (T-56)
- Take off driveshaft.
- One connector on each side going to brakes.
- All tranny connectors
- Support tranny and remove Tranny Support Bracket.
- Support motor from under K-member and take out 6 bolts (3 on each side) that hold K-Member to the body of the car (they are right next to the lower control arms).
I might have missed something but you get the idea.
IMPORTANT:
You do NOT have to disconnect the A/C lines (see picture below). Just lower the k-member a bit and then unbolt the A/C compressor and rotate it out of the way. I zip-tied mine to the lower radiator support bracket.
And you are done:
1) Here's how I set up the hoist. There's no need for hooks, just a good pair of chains and Grade-8 bolts with washers. Wrap the crossbrace with cardboard or something to keep the chains from damaging the paint.
2) Disconnect:
- Drain motor oil, tranny fluid and radiator.
- 2 front Brake lines from ABS block, get the lines off the retainer on the driver side and zip-tie them away from anything they might tangle with.
- Remove radiator and fans assembly.
- Exhaust from headers at collectors.
- Fuel lines.
- Steering knuckle.
- Shifter boot and ****. (you can leave the shifter in place).
- All top-end sensors (MAF, IAC, Injector harness, MAP, Vaccum lines in back of manifold, Throttle cable, etc).
- Wires going to ground bolts on each side of engine block, Starter wires, Crank Pos sensor behind starter
- Disconnect all wires going to both sides of tranny (T-56)
- Take off driveshaft.
- One connector on each side going to brakes.
- All tranny connectors
- Support tranny and remove Tranny Support Bracket.
- Support motor from under K-member and take out 6 bolts (3 on each side) that hold K-Member to the body of the car (they are right next to the lower control arms).
I might have missed something but you get the idea.
IMPORTANT:
You do NOT have to disconnect the A/C lines (see picture below). Just lower the k-member a bit and then unbolt the A/C compressor and rotate it out of the way. I zip-tied mine to the lower radiator support bracket.
And you are done:
You guys can have fun doing it that way! It only takes another 30 minutes to pull the intake off water pump and crank pulley! Mine came out the top with tranny and no issues. Only took two people and we didnt scratch a thing!
Guys, just be carefull lifting the cars with the hoist. I saw a mark 8 done that way one time and the lift was placed infront of the car. The car tipped over as they were trying to pull the motor from underneath, someone neglected to notice he was pulling himself against the car and the engine hoist started to tip and never stopped. Good thing the car was a junker and it was a motor salvage! Just becareful, thats still a lot of weight up in the air even without the motor and tranny.
Guys, just be carefull lifting the cars with the hoist. I saw a mark 8 done that way one time and the lift was placed infront of the car. The car tipped over as they were trying to pull the motor from underneath, someone neglected to notice he was pulling himself against the car and the engine hoist started to tip and never stopped. Good thing the car was a junker and it was a motor salvage! Just becareful, thats still a lot of weight up in the air even without the motor and tranny.
On The Tree
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So...another 30 min to take off intake, water pump, tranny!!, headers!!, steering pump. Plus you WILL have to disconnect A/C lines. 30 minutes, in your dreams.
Not to mention the sh*tload of extra wrenching you have to do.
Not to mention the sh*tload of extra wrenching you have to do.
Last edited by BigBirdTA; Jan 5, 2008 at 01:14 AM.
On The Tree
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Pulling the engine without a lift isn't any easier if you know what you're doing. Once you remove everything from the front of the motor (radiator, hoses, etc) you can just sit your *** in the engine bay and do your work.
It's all in personal preference. Without a lift, I do everything from under the hood. With a lift, it's a given to do it from underneath.
It's all in personal preference. Without a lift, I do everything from under the hood. With a lift, it's a given to do it from underneath.
