Well, I got done with my head fix and the cam swap while I was in there. It sat for a week, then I did a final check of everything where I was working on it and drove it home. Before leaving, the dipstick had clean oil, got back to the apartment dipstick had clean oil. It sat for another 2 weeks while I was gone, and I got a chance yesterday to finally take it out and start tuning it. Checked the dipstick and it's completely milky. Needless to say, I didn't go anywhere with it.

When I was putting things back together, everything went to spec, no problems. But...even though it went to spec and tightened properly, the number 9 head bolt on the driver's side seemed just a little strange to me. I pulled the valve cover, checked that bolt as it was the first thing that came to mind on wondering what could be wrong. Sure enough, it was loose. The threads in the block stripped.

The block has 150K+ miles on it. I know it overheated pretty badly once in it's life, but the cylinders and heads checked out fine with nothing warped.

Is it time to say good riddance to the block, or should I pay someone else to fix the threads for the one bolt then drive it til I put a rod through the block? Also, if I pay someone to fix it, how much should I be looking at paying?

 

A tap is pretty cheap, why not try retapping it in the car first and see how it pans out?

 

I would at least try and tap it to the next size ARP head bolt first.

 

Tap it and helicoil it. Put ARPs in it this time and throw away the stock tty. You will be fine. Pm me if you have any questions.

 

i voted for fixing it...its not worth throwing the whole block out over a stripped bolt hole. just get it retapped

 

Buying a new engine because of a stripped bolt hole is kind of silly unless you were looking for an excuse to buy a new one in the first place.

 

Sounds reasonable. My wife is the one getting more pissed off about it than I am right now. It's not the first problem with the block, and she's starting to ask how much more is going to break on my car before it's going to no longer be an issue. She didn't like the answer of rear end, torque arm, etc. She's pushing for a new car, I'm pushing for everything new in this car. If this had happened 10 months from now, I'd be the winner. Little at a time, she's pushing harder.

 

I agree with this guy ,it gives u a good reason to step up to something new,thats exactly where i am now,except i have allready Bought the motor ,i wasnt wanting to put it in so quick , u can get a nice 402 from tsp for 4700 delivered to the door,all though its not guranteed to break anything else .ya right .,if u do go the new motor route & u put out a decent amount of power ,500 rwhp or more be expecting a new clutch ,in my case it was rearend ,tq tube,or there was a Budget build on there site a 370 iron block for around 2700 dollars ,thats forged internals, or u buy a tap & try it ,if it works great ,if it doesnt then start looking into new sbs

 

Throw the car payment and interest at her and make her see its cheaper to do what you want to this one in the long run.

 

That's how I got the replace everything option. We agreed on a value of 20-24k, to dump into the car, but that's only if we're back in Florida and I have a new job, where I can do it myself in my garage with all my tools, and we are having an income to pay for it. Then it'll be a 427 LSX block with forged internals. Otherwise, she's starting to say get as few cylinders as possible and 50mpg car to get around. I get out of where I am early September, so we're looking at mid September to early October.

Anyone by chance know of any job openings in Jacksonville/St. Augustine, FL around that time for a person with a Mech. E. degree with a decent amount of Civil E. experience. Mostly management and quality control? Wouldn't mind switching careers if the job was right.

 

Buy a $600 Kia and a take out engine. You can find them all the time if you keep looking. Bob at EPP had a take out for 2k he was selling. ls1/6 take out's are cheap. No reason to pay over 3k for a used oem longblock if you look smart. Then when you have the job and money do the 427.

You have to do what's best for your family, car's come and go.

 

if you find someone that is wanting to do a swap.......and shoot them a good deal on the shortblock they wont blink an eye at the fact of a silly stripped bolt hole.......sell it start over let it be someone elses problem

 

I think you need a 4.125"bore block and somw Dart heads

 

either fix it cheaply or build a real motor for it.

 

Ok, she's saying to look around at long blocks. She's agreeing to the less than price of a new car part. I'll keep you guys updated on what's going to happen, but ditching this block on someone wanting to do a swap is looking like a good possibility.

 

heli coil that ******, save $$ for a new long block while driving it, or blow it on strippers and beer.