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head swap, bolt hole and coolant question

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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:17 PM
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Default head swap, bolt hole and coolant question
Someone suggested to me to tap the bolt hole to get the crud out...sound good? will it work?
Last edited by dubrado; Jan 6, 2008 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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The best way to do it is to tape up a straw to a vacuum claner hose and suck them out. Then run a chase them with a tap. The straw on tha vacuum cleaner is a must.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:30 PM
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or use an air hose and blow them out and put a cloth down into it. Also, take a stock head bolt and grind 2 flat faces on it and use that to clean out the holes. yoou cant have any liquid or dirt in them
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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Just use air compressor, Meanards has a cheap air blower 5$ that is about 12 inches long,bend it to fit all the way down to bottom of bolt holes.Dont forget to clean out bolt holes with an old bolt . Cut 2 grooves the lenght of bolt in the threads for the crap to accumulate, and run it in and out several times, then blow out with air.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ssheets
The best way to do it is to tape up a straw to a vacuum claner hose and suck them out. Then run a chase them with a tap. The straw on tha vacuum cleaner is a must.
so a tap will help take out the crusd correct?
Last edited by dubrado; Jan 6, 2008 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NHRAFORMULA00
Dont forget to clean out bolt holes with an old bolt . Cut 2 grooves the lenght of bolt in the threads for the crap to accumulate, and run it in and out several times, then blow out with air.
Isn't that basically what the tap would do?
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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A tap isn't going to get the coolant out. I used a straw and my air compressor to blow them out. You need to be 100% positive you get all of it out or you will crack the block when you put it back together.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
Isn't that basically what the tap would do?
if you are set on using a tap use it but good advise has already been given...
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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tap wont get all the fluid out, it will stay on the sides of the tap that are hollow. just get some compressed air or use a vac, as already stated
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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get a can of air duster. the straw on it will go to the bottom of the holes, then grind2 sides off an old head bolt and run it in and out a few times.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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My buddies and I have done about 20 to 30 head swaps. We just use air and blow the holes out. Never have had a problem.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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Don't worry about that coolant bro, just bolt it all back up.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Grimes
tap wont get all the fluid out, it will stay on the sides of the tap that are hollow. just get some compressed air or use a vac, as already stated
the tap will atleast get the dirt or grime out the threads though right?

better than the bolt w/the grooves?
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
the tap will atleast get the dirt or grime out the threads though right?

better than the bolt w/the grooves?
I hope you know you need a special tap to even do what you want to do. Not something sold locally.

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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I hope you know you need a special tap to even do what you want to do. Not something sold locally.
ya, it'd have to be pretty long to work.

worse case is if I can't find it, I'll do the bolt deal

but in case I can get one, I wanted to know if it would work well...I think some confusion in the thread came in when I put coolant, meant to put dirt and particles.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
ya, it'd have to be pretty long to work.

worse case is if I can't find it, I'll do the bolt deal

but in case I can get one, I wanted to know if it would work well...I think some confusion in the thread came in when I put coolant, meant to put dirt and particles.

95% of the time the holes are not contaminated. Just inspect each bolt when removing them. Then I just blast them with my air gun to make sure the holes are dry. If not the bolts will not seat correctly. Are you using head bolts or studs? I perfer studs.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
95% of the time the holes are not contaminated. Just inspect each bolt when removing them. Then I just blast them with my air gun to make sure the holes are dry. If not the bolts will not seat correctly. Are you using head bolts or studs? I perfer studs.
bolts, I don't plan on swapping heads again and when this motor is done, I'm gonna just get rid of it for a pre-assembled shortblock or long block.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
bolts, I don't plan on swapping heads again and when this motor is done, I'm gonna just get rid of it for a pre-assembled shortblock or long block.
With the spray and the 243's I would highly suggest ARP head studs. They will hold up better to the spray.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
With the spray and the 243's I would highly suggest ARP head studs. They will hold up better to the spray.
I already have the bolts.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
I already have the bolts.

I just hate putting so much stress on the threads when doing the bolts. I like the studs. You will be fine. Make sure to use ARP moly lube.
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