average HP of 383 all bore???
With my stock short block 346CI running a TR224 I'm making 400rwhp (should hit 415HP or so when winter comes)
My goal has always been 500 rwhp (no nitrous) and it would be nice to do it without FI (all motor is just cool).

What are the specs of the cam?
How does the 12.2:1 CR work out for you on 91? I'm over here in Phoenix with 11.1:1 and I thought that was bad.

My car already has all the good bolt-ons (hooker LTs, x-pipe, ported maf, LS6 intake) and my heads are stage III, 5.7Liter heads with a 60cc chambers.
..the only alternatives i know of are (1) a c5-r block at $6.5K, (2) a Darton-sleeved LS1 block at $3K.
Is this correct?
The 12.2:1 CR will work on a very conservative tune. I basically have a street tune and a race tune since I have LS1 edit at my disposal. I put down something like 450 rwhp and 450 rwtq with 91 octane and 11 degrees of timing. When I heard that I told AAP to put a more aggressive street tune on it and I'll use a mixture of 100 and 91 octane for the street and 103 for the track.
..the only alternatives i know of are (1) a c5-r block at $6.5K, (2) a Darton-sleeved LS1 block at $3K.
Is this correct?
a) MTI has them for $1,995 + core charge (can get a block for less than $500)...
b) local machean shop (did my heads and builds top fuel engines) quoted me $1K for machean work/labor....so that plus $1,300 for the sleaves from TR is only $2,300....
Trending Topics
I'm not going stroker because it wouldn't do me any good:
1) I have 2.08/1.60 valves on my heads (pre-planned big bore) and they are shrouded in the stock bore. I need the larger bore so I can actually use the heads ($$$).
2) The 385RWTQ already burns the 295 I have on the rear in second (even lit the traction light going into 3rd at 75mph) so stroke/more torque would be BADDDDDDD for me.

3) People have subjected the factory crank to 800+ hp and had no problems, so my 600-650 hp should go for many years.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I used both a stock crank, and stock rods. Its a street car, and my end goal is to have a 427 in there. I didnt think it would be wise to buy 387 length rods only to buy different ones in a year or two. I believe that for my purposes, stock rods with ARP rod bolts is enough for an X1 cam (230/227) on a 114. I dont want to shift too far after 6000. Im going to enjoy the torque, but I have alot of traction, so Im barely able to get tip-in spin (shifting the tranny like a nutty bastard to get the rear to break loose doesnt count) in 2nd with the big nitto DRs. More torque would be fun.
With stock rods, the bottom end with cam, timing chain, oil pump, etc etc came to like 4800.
I'm very pleased that not only can I get it from MTI, who if they install it give oyu a warrantee, but also, I can get it for a great price.
Chris
. I have Yokohama 315 Road Races tires in the rear, boxed LCA's, RT torque arm at a -2 pinion angle, and a heavy woofer box in my truck right over the rear wheels. That's as much traction with street tires that you can get and I still have gotten a little sideways in 2nd from a roll. Of course the 4.33's don't help much either
Don't forget you need pistons and other items when you into this type of project.
$4,250 from JPR:
Our All Bore 382 Short Blocks are aluminum blocks that are machined to accommodate larger bore sizes. The All Bore 382's come standard with forged pistons (tailored to your application), Kwiss heavy duty timing sets , ARE ported high volume oil pump, ARP rod bolts and main studs and all bearings are Federal Mogul. Up-graded billet mains, rods and studs are available at an additional cost.
Why do I read so many posts about people dropping sleeves in non-Darton sleeved blocks?
Are these casulties the result of earlier pre-production resleeving processes that were not very good; has the resleeving process been recently perfected?
Thanks...
If you did not have a core, the web page says add $500 for a block.
Is $500 the current market price for a used LS1 block?
Does Darton also offer the re-sleeving service or do they only sell the Darton sleeves to others?
Don't forget you need pistons and other items when you into this type of project.
$4,250 from JPR:
that $4250 is a complete short block (even has an oil pump)...
I'm going to use all the stuff off of my current engine (oil pump, crank, rods, double roller chain, head studs, etc). It won't cost me much to have the crank and rods cleaned up (less than $500). Pistons/rings seem to be the only other "big" cost that I would have and they are $500-$700 depending on what I go with. Sure there will be things like gaskets, bearings, and ARP bolts/studs but it should still be less than the $4250 JPR wants (since I'm reusing things).
Fianlly, I'm assembling the engine myself (won't charge myself too much $$$ there
).an unseen cost that I had not thought about was a cam.....I'm going to need something much larger than the TR224 I have...

