Ive had my car about a year now and I completed all the bolt ons not too long ago and I wanted to do my first internal mod which is a cam swap! I wanted some suggestions before I go out and buy one, so if you would, please help me out with this! My mods will be included in my signature so that you can look at them to determine what best fits my wants and capabilites! I want a cam thats going to work for stock heads but will work even better later when I get them ported. Im going to use stock lifters for now because Im not pulling the heads until I have the money for ported ones! I will be upgrading the valvetrain though, but with a single spring set up only! I want the cam to give me the most power in the low end and top end, and I want it to have a mean lope! I know that I'll never accomplish how an old carbureted car sounds, but I want it to sound pretty damn mean! Thanks alot and any help is much appreciated!

 

A very popular cam right now is the 224/224 from either Thunder or Comp Cams --- MTI may have something similar. This cam will work well w/ your LTs. With stock heads, I'd keep the lift around .550". For a lumpy idle, get a 112 LSA. You may need to drill the TB blade to get a decent idle, and dyno tuning to clean up your A/F mix.

 

On that 224 cam it will have a .581 lift! Why would you say to stay with a .550 lift? I wont find a 224 cam with that low of a lift unless I ask for it. I know this is a very popular cam, but Im not in it for that, Im in it for what Im looking for in a cam. Most gain in low and high end power with a nice choppy sound! Im not expecting a prostock sound, but I do want you to notice it when you pull up beside me. I know with the 224 cam you will notice it on a cold start up, but I want to keep that nice sound even when it becomes warm. I dont want it where you have to really listen to tell if there is an aftermarket cam in the car! I want it to be very noticeable! Im looking for the most gain in a cam with stock heads if not close! Thanks

 

The 224 is also available in a .56x" lift, & works well w/ stock heads.

 

But it still doesnt answer why you would stay around a .550 lift. Do you think .581 is too much of a lift and if so why? Thanks

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by OneQuickSS:
<strong> But it still doesnt answer why you would stay around a .550 lift. Do you think .581 is too much of a lift and if so why? Thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">More lift = more stress on valve-train
Stock heads don't flow that well closer to .600 so you'd be potentionally loosing power since you couldn't get enough air

So there's no sense putting excess strain on your valve-train if you're not going to gain much... plus personally (though others would disagree) if I was going that high of lift I'd want some double springs... and I haven't heard much good about the REV doubles (the ones you don't need to machine the head)

 

cmotorsports.com has a 534 224/224 111, they have other cams as well.

 

The reason I suggested keeping the lift below .550" is that the stock heads stall out at higher lifts. This means that instead of getting more flow, you just get more turbulence. It doesn't mean that you'll lose power, just that you won't really get much benefit from the higher lift.

As has already been pointed out, the lower lift will also put less stress on your springs, & the valvetrain will be quieter.

 

To bohdi: Do you have any sound clips of the car? Where did you purchase your cam and is that a stocked cam or a custom grind? Thanks

 

I know with the higher lift it wont do me any bit of good as of right now, but in the future I will have my heads ported and polished. Im sure then, the lift will do some good. Now that I have told you that Im getting heads in the future, what cam do you think I should go with? Thanks

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HITMANSS:
<strong> The reason I suggested keeping the lift below .550" is that the stock heads stall out at higher lifts. This means that instead of getting more flow, you just get more turbulence. It doesn't mean that you'll lose power, just that you won't really get much benefit from the higher lift.

As has already been pointed out, the lower lift will also put less stress on your springs, & the valvetrain will be quieter. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">bah!! BS!

My cam made 406.1 RWHP and 391.8 RWTQ on a Dynojet 648. Lift is fine as long as you keep it around .590. To compensate for the stock heads, put the longer duration on the intake side.
Check the specs:

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by OneQuickSS:
<strong> To bohdi: Do you have any sound clips of the car? Where did you purchase your cam and is that a stocked cam or a custom grind? Thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It's a custom grind from Comp. I purchased it through Thunder Racing, and it was shipped directly from Comp.
No sound clips, but I can tell you it sounds nasty. I have been contemplating going with a true dual setup in hopes of getting rid of the NASCAR sound. The car is LOUD and it lopes nicely.
I feel bad for my neighbors in the morning if that's any indication.
My good friend has WS6 with FLP's, no cats, and Borla. With the Borla wide open- you can't even hear his car when we are at WOT.

If you are in Houston, maybe we could meet up and you can check it out.

 

Again.....Bahh....BS <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

OnequickSS has already said he'll be having his heads done at a later date. I see so many folks running out and buying these big lift/ big duration sticks because they really do believe bigger is better..... and then wondering why they aren't making the same power Joe Blow is making.

Well I know why...they are listening to everyone else instead of doing some real research and actually learning why any given combo makes(or doesn't make)power.

There are plenty of grinds that the big cam guys look down their nose at, and call "baby cams". Well....I'm one of those "baby cam" guys, and my combo made 416.9rwhp/397.9 rwtq, on a way fat tune, and only to 6250. My cam peaks @ 6600 btw.... Not too shabby for a cam that wasn't "suposed" to make that #....huh? And....FWIW, my car is not one of the "factory freaks" by any stretch.

These #'s were done with a lil' bitty T1 which specs out @ 221/558/112 +4, and a set of heads built for the application. How 'bout that....221/55X lift. I see 230/59X cams/heads cars not making that #.....wussup with that? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

There is NO mgical cam out there that is going to perform heads above the "tried and true" grinds.
It is a fact that the more dur./lift you introduce, the more valve train stress/street manners/tuning related probs you Will be dealing with in order to get your beloved daily driver to act(reliably) right. If your willing to deal with that....more power(no pun intended) to you.

At conservative dur/lifts with the "right" heads, you Can make good power, and do your valve train a favor at the same time....not to mention not having to spin the bottom to Mars to get into and stay in the peak power curves of the bigger grinds.

Also a side note:.....I as well as everyone who has heard my car goes orgasmic. Loud, and very choppy @ (850rpm) idle. A good exhaust w/ORP's get's the attention you're looking for....guarenteed <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I'm not trying to come off like a Dick, or flame anyone, just put your parts together "wisely", and you will reach your target #'s.

Peace.......