$7000
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 17
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$7000 Hey, i'd like to know what you think would be the best course for me to take with my car. I'm going to be getting a 98 or newer z 28 very soon, and have about 7 grand i want to dump into it. I know i want to start out with na performance and then maybe put nitrous in after i have at least 450-500hp to the wheels just on the motor. I also know i'm gonna need a new 12 bolt to keep from shattering the rear. Anyone feel free to give advice on the sequence i should go in.
Re: $7000 if u have a steady cash flow... heads/cam pkg, pulley, intake ( intake if u dont get an 01 or 02) Exhaust/Headers...
If u still have money left over... do Tq Converter A4, Nice Clutch M6
and with new found power at least get subframes so u dont endup bending ur car.
then relace **** as it brakes... rearend tranny etc...
If u still have money left over... do Tq Converter A4, Nice Clutch M6
and with new found power at least get subframes so u dont endup bending ur car.
then relace **** as it brakes... rearend tranny etc...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Re: $7000 the replacing **** as it breaks doesn't cut it for me, this is gonna be a fun car, not a spend every damn hour i have on jackstands replacing **** i should have had in the first place car. i don't mean to flame you, but that's just how i see things. plus, my only other car is an 87 k5 blazer, so i don't need to be breaking a lot of stuff on this one
Re: $7000 500 hp at the wheels is a lot hp if you expect not to break anything. 
If you want to keep things from breaking start with rear end roughly $2200. new drive shaft $400.upgraded trans and converter or clutch if m6$2000. This should leave enough for stuff like an air lid $120 catback and y pipe $500 headers $700 lca's $150
all this is rough estimates off the top of my head so you can up or downgrade as you like.
If you want to keep things from breaking start with rear end roughly $2200. new drive shaft $400.upgraded trans and converter or clutch if m6$2000. This should leave enough for stuff like an air lid $120 catback and y pipe $500 headers $700 lca's $150
all this is rough estimates off the top of my head so you can up or downgrade as you like.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IN
Re: $7000 Heads/cam package, full exhaust, LS6 intake, moser 12 bolt, and suspension components like relocation brackets and lower control arms. Also, all bolt ons and tuning. If an A4 car, then make sure the trans is built to handle that car.
Re: $7000
Take that 7k plus what you are going to spend on your new car and buy a vette....
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Re: $7000 $7,000 doesn't go far on these cars!
Judging from what you want, and how you want to do it, it seems you should build the drivetrain and chassis first:
-rearend
-transmission
-clutch or convertor
-driveshaft
-subframe connectors
-lower control arms
-drag radials or ET streets
All the power in the world won't do you a bit of good if all you do is spin and twist the car up! (Unless you are looking for speed from a fast roll only)
Also, would stay away from "already built" cars - generally they have seen at least some amount of abuse and will put you up on the jack stands like you talked about. Unless there is a dirt cheap bargain worth going over with a fine tooth comb.
Just my 2 cents...
Judging from what you want, and how you want to do it, it seems you should build the drivetrain and chassis first:
-rearend
-transmission
-clutch or convertor
-driveshaft
-subframe connectors
-lower control arms
-drag radials or ET streets
All the power in the world won't do you a bit of good if all you do is spin and twist the car up! (Unless you are looking for speed from a fast roll only)
Also, would stay away from "already built" cars - generally they have seen at least some amount of abuse and will put you up on the jack stands like you talked about. Unless there is a dirt cheap bargain worth going over with a fine tooth comb.
Just my 2 cents...
Re: $7000 Hmmm $7000, I think how you spend it depends on if the car is an A4 or an M6.
If it was me and car + $7000
A4
I'd skip the 12-bolt because often the rear will hold up much better with the A4. I would get 3.73 gears.
~$600 gears & install
~$400 Nitto DR for the rear
~$50 drag bag for rear
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1200 converter and install
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap
This leave ~$2,200 which I would hold on as a nest egg for that heads and cam package.
For M6
~$2500 for 12-bolt and goodies,
~$400 slicks
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1000 for clutch replacment
~$175 Pro 5.0 shifter
~$50 shift light
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap
$300 left over
just an brainstorm I'm sure I left stuff out
If it was me and car + $7000
A4
I'd skip the 12-bolt because often the rear will hold up much better with the A4. I would get 3.73 gears.
~$600 gears & install
~$400 Nitto DR for the rear
~$50 drag bag for rear
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1200 converter and install
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap
This leave ~$2,200 which I would hold on as a nest egg for that heads and cam package.
For M6
~$2500 for 12-bolt and goodies,
~$400 slicks
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1000 for clutch replacment
~$175 Pro 5.0 shifter
~$50 shift light
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap
$300 left over
just an brainstorm I'm sure I left stuff out
Re: $7000
the replacing **** as it breaks doesn't cut it for me, this is gonna be a fun car, not a spend every damn hour i have on jackstands replacing **** i should have had in the first place car.
Re: $7000 A smart guy once told me to build a hotrod drivetrain from back to front. So with that in mind I would start with a 12-bolt, then driveshaft, then clutch (I'm assuming M6 because that's all I'm really familiar with). Then I would focus on suspension and brakes. Only once you've squared away all that, then worry about the engine
With my daily beater a 91 RS which I
most of the time, I'm slowly upgrading it. Starting with suspension and brakes, next driveline and last will be engine. 
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Re: $7000 I have a block for sell that comes honed, new hardened Dura-Bond cam bearings, and new ARP main studs. Some people think the dry sleeves are better than the wet sleeves. I called Darton who makes the dry sleeves for Agostino racing and the wet sleeves. The tec said the wet sleeves are far better and can take more abuse, and that the dry sleeves are milled very thin to get a 4.125" bore. He said Darton has been using wet sleeves for years in motors that make over 1000 hp with out any problems. Also with the wet sleeves you get better heat transfer. Morgan Machine Shop are setting the motor up for me. Naturally aspirated cars with 427 CI are running the ¼ mile the low to mid 10's, with NOS there hitting the mid to hi 9's. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. You can email me at NRKnause@midamerican.com