rockguy

Hey, i'd like to know what you think would be the best course for me to take with my car. I'm going to be getting a 98 or newer z 28 very soon, and have about 7 grand i want to dump into it. I know i want to start out with na performance and then maybe put nitrous in after i have at least 450-500hp to the wheels just on the motor. I also know i'm gonna need a new 12 bolt to keep from shattering the rear. Anyone feel free to give advice on the sequence i should go in.

T/A Medic

iTrader: (1)

if u have a steady cash flow... heads/cam pkg, pulley, intake ( intake if u dont get an 01 or 02) Exhaust/Headers...

If u still have money left over... do Tq Converter A4, Nice Clutch M6

and with new found power at least get subframes so u dont endup bending ur car.

then relace **** as it brakes... rearend tranny etc...

rockguy

the replacing **** as it breaks doesn't cut it for me, this is gonna be a fun car, not a spend every damn hour i have on jackstands replacing **** i should have had in the first place car. i don't mean to flame you, but that's just how i see things. plus, my only other car is an 87 k5 blazer, so i don't need to be breaking a lot of stuff on this one

promod1955

iTrader: (44)

500 hp at the wheels is a lot hp if you expect not to break anything.

If you want to keep things from breaking start with rear end roughly $2200. new drive shaft $400.upgraded trans and converter or clutch if m6$2000. This should leave enough for stuff like an air lid $120 catback and y pipe $500 headers $700 lca's $150

all this is rough estimates off the top of my head so you can up or downgrade as you like.

Smoke_Ford

Heads/cam package, full exhaust, LS6 intake, moser 12 bolt, and suspension components like relocation brackets and lower control arms. Also, all bolt ons and tuning. If an A4 car, then make sure the trans is built to handle that car.

z0sense

iTrader: (1)

Take that 7k plus what you are going to spend on your new car and buy a vette....

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Thats not a bad idea. That or do a forged out 346 with MTI or Cartek LS6 heads. Around 11.25 compression and a healthy cam. Then whenever you save some more its time to shoot up.

rockguy

should i need to build the bottom end at all? I'm not seeing anyone talkin about new pistons, rods, a crank, ect

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Find a car that is already built! I've seen as few 98-99s with forged pistons and rear ends in the $16-17k range!

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

$7,000 doesn't go far on these cars!

Judging from what you want, and how you want to do it, it seems you should build the drivetrain and chassis first:
-rearend
-transmission
-clutch or convertor
-driveshaft
-subframe connectors
-lower control arms
-drag radials or ET streets

All the power in the world won't do you a bit of good if all you do is spin and twist the car up! (Unless you are looking for speed from a fast roll only)

Also, would stay away from "already built" cars - generally they have seen at least some amount of abuse and will put you up on the jack stands like you talked about. Unless there is a dirt cheap bargain worth going over with a fine tooth comb.

Just my 2 cents...

robertbartsch

Take the $7K and invest it in the stock market....in a few years, it will be $14K...

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm $7000, I think how you spend it depends on if the car is an A4 or an M6.

If it was me and car + $7000

A4

I'd skip the 12-bolt because often the rear will hold up much better with the A4. I would get 3.73 gears.

~$600 gears & install
~$400 Nitto DR for the rear
~$50 drag bag for rear
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1200 converter and install
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap

This leave ~$2,200 which I would hold on as a nest egg for that heads and cam package.

For M6

~$2500 for 12-bolt and goodies,
~$400 slicks
~$250 BMR panhard (adjustable) & LCA's
~$200 Subframes
~$1000 for clutch replacment
~$175 Pro 5.0 shifter
~$50 shift light
~$100 Lid
~$150 Fast Toys Ram Air
~$600 LT headers like Hooker etc
~$150 offroad pipe
~$50 cut out
~$200 used SLP dual/dual to keep the noise down
~$100 Lid
~$500 for LS1 edit for gears & tuning
~$275 Atap

$300 left over

just an brainstorm I'm sure I left stuff out

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

You put lid in the M6 column twice

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

No wonder my mod money doesn't go as far as I want it too!



Some of my pricing is off too...but I think it sort give a rough idea...

taqwache

you can give the $7000 to me so i can put in in my car. then i will tell you what i bought for it to make it faster. hehehe

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

A smart guy once told me to build a hotrod drivetrain from back to front. So with that in mind I would start with a 12-bolt, then driveshaft, then clutch (I'm assuming M6 because that's all I'm really familiar with). Then I would focus on suspension and brakes. Only once you've squared away all that, then worry about the engine (well, except maybe the oil pump and timing chain). Of course simple bolt-ons like lid, exhaust, and LS6 intake could be done at any time.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

I agree, I didn't do that with my 99 and so far nothings went

With my daily beater a 91 RS which I most of the time, I'm slowly upgrading it. Starting with suspension and brakes, next driveline and last will be engine.

NasT

I too would recomend start from the back..friend of mine ran 12.32 with just a lid and exhaust, he had a 12 bolt and turbo 400 .. just an idea

extremecorvette

I have a block for sell that comes honed, new hardened Dura-Bond cam bearings, and new ARP main studs. Some people think the dry sleeves are better than the wet sleeves. I called Darton who makes the dry sleeves for Agostino racing and the wet sleeves. The tec said the wet sleeves are far better and can take more abuse, and that the dry sleeves are milled very thin to get a 4.125" bore. He said Darton has been using wet sleeves for years in motors that make over 1000 hp with out any problems. Also with the wet sleeves you get better heat transfer. Morgan Machine Shop are setting the motor up for me. Naturally aspirated cars with 427 CI are running the ¼ mile the low to mid 10's, with NOS there hitting the mid to hi 9's. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. You can email me at NRKnause@midamerican.com

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Rock,

What did you decide to buy with your $7000?